Assembling the NOS 084

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How about a compromise of tecniques? If you haven't played with them, you will find that the cages are rather pliable. They're very easy to remove. The flywheel side cage is installed from the crank side, so it's removal before heating and installation is not an option. The clutch side installs from the outside. So I popped it out. The case half is in the oven at 200F for starters. If it won't drop in there, I'll bump it up. I'm still leary of hurting the finish. I believe I've seen cases bubble at 300F, but they weren't new and may have already had issues. I'm not taking any unnecessary chances. Once the crank is in the clutch side, I'll pull the flywheel side on.
 
blsnelling said:
Mule-headed? Just trying to understand the issue so I can learn here:clap: I'm not going to just drop my head and have the dealer do something I can. THAT I am too mule-headed for:)
Click to expand...

Just playing with ya:)
 
That kind of thing is no longer my problem. I bought myself a late Christmas present in the form ofthe ZS tool :clap: . That plus the recent arbor press and I'm good to go on most crank related jobs, except removing those damn awkward crank seals:cry: .
 
METHODS
1/ 170* run the risk of getting them part on / equals head aches.( extra extra long 5mm screws to finish pulling together -MAYBE
2/ Extract the bearing for freeze fit with crank with heated case
3/ ARBOR press.Right tools or retro.

?????????????????????????????????????????

your no dummy / you proved that already.

But I am enjoying a heehe - not a ho haw.....:(
 
A few minutes at 300F and it dropped right in. I'm taking fell in. It's just simply amazing. As soon as it cools off, I'll pop the cage back in and install the other side. After that, time for seals. We're officially off the races!
 
Gumnuts said:
Do you try to save and re-use the seals ? As in hard to get stock ?!
Click to expand...

I'm not talking about hard to find seals, usually current(ish) models. If I'm changing the bearings, I'm changing the seals too, but they can be really hard to lever out without bearing whatever pry tool I'm using on the machined edge of the case.
 
Dan Forsh said:
I'm not talking about hard to find seals, usually current(ish) models. If I'm changing the bearings, I'm changing the seals too, but they can be really hard to lever out without bearing whatever pry tool I'm using on the machined edge of the case.
Click to expand...

Have been prying them out from the centre rubber on shaft.Dig in ,easy does it,lift.With small Stihl driver.Some guys are small drilling pilot hole and then hooking out .
 
Dan Forsh said:
That kind of thing is no longer my problem. I bought myself a late Christmas present in the form ofthe ZS tool :clap: . That plus the recent arbor press and I'm good to go on most crank related jobs, except removing those damn awkward crank seals:cry: .
Click to expand...

Now you just need to buy the seal puller for your birthday, or any other reason...:greenchainsaw:
 
Gumnuts said:
Have been prying them out from the centre rubber on shaft.Dig in ,easy does it,lift.With small Stihl driver.Some guys are small drilling pilot hole and then hooking out .
Click to expand...

Works on some of the larger seals.. Real hard on the likes of the flywheel side of and 026.. almost impossible sometimes..
 
Gumnuts said:
Have been prying them out from the centre rubber on shaft.Dig in ,easy does it,lift.With small Stihl driver.Some guys are small drilling pilot hole and then hooking out .
Click to expand...

Works on some of the larger seals.. Real hard on the likes of the flywheel side of an 026.. almost impossible sometimes..
 
You don't want one of these problems...

Helped out a guy today.. splitting his 084 case... Bearing bad...

Got my fancy factory tool out, punched out the pins, removed the screws, mounted the tool, one slight turn and the case moved. Hmmm... Not supposed to be that easy...


Uh oh...

attachment.php


O84 (unlike most 088) clutch side have steel bearing on mag case... and when it gets pounded, the case looses...


I could separate the case by hand...

attachment.php
 
Just for the record, 300F will blister a brand new case. I was watching closely and did not have it in there that long either. I didn't ruin the case, but it slightly blister the clutch side half. Fortunately, it was already warm enough and the crank dropped right in.

I'll warn you of this. If you choose to remove a cage on a new bearing, the bearing is so tight that the balls are not easy to realign. I got it done though.
 
Last edited:
I'm suprised that your case blistered. Are you using convection or radient? Even convection needs a shield from the direct fan/element ar flow. I've never had a problem. Might be due to the age - maybe not powder coat?
 
Last edited:
Why this is my wife's kitchen oven of course:) So it's radiant. Same place I found that handy dishwasher, which I need to throw a couple things in. This wasn't the first time I saw this happen. I just wasn't sure of it. Now I am. This is what ever Stihl's factory finish is.

I'm working on editing the pictures so show the beginning of my assembly process.
 

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