Bowtie
Gearhead
Nice looking build there Brad. I cant wait to get my next little project underway.
Assembling the NOS 084
- Thread starter blsnelling
- Start date
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spacemule
The Peanut Gallery
Hey! Watch it!
spacemule
The Peanut Gallery
You're compromising your bearing integrity unworriedly yet you're really concerned with paint? Sheesh, talk about silly priorities!
RiverRat2
Serio Tree Freak
Lol,,,,,,
Aww quit smakin him so hard Space,,,,, 
@ least hes trying!!!!!! and FCOL its gotta look good,,,,
Brad as much as you like to do this for your personal saws & Fleabay saw sales business youd be better off buying the Stihl case spitter/crank remove/ install tool and a convection oven,,,,, then you would only have to heat empty cases to install bearings and you could mount/dismount the cranks without the added heating and freezing cycles,,,,paint burning,,drama???? and the convection oven is better on the paint also an arbor press from harbour freight would be good,,,
Aww quit smakin him so hard Space,,,,,
@ least hes trying!!!!!! and FCOL its gotta look good,,,,Brad as much as you like to do this for your personal saws & Fleabay saw sales business youd be better off buying the Stihl case spitter/crank remove/ install tool and a convection oven,,,,, then you would only have to heat empty cases to install bearings and you could mount/dismount the cranks without the added heating and freezing cycles,,,,paint burning,,drama???? and the convection oven is better on the paint also an arbor press from harbour freight would be good,,,
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Tzed250
Addicted to ArboristSite
PVC driver would be better...
I have used a socket that fits the OD. But it's harder to get it the same depth all the way around.
That would work. How about a phenolic rod?
glenn31792
ArboristSite Guru
I like that ring compressor!
Great pics Thanks
Great pics Thanks
Four of the silliest little parts are going to keep me from finishing this saw. They've been on backorder for more than 2 weeks now. We're talking <$15 for all of them. Anyone have a lead?
Grommet-Oil Pump Cable 1124 647 9100
Grommet-Oil Pump Adjuster 1124 647 9105
Filter base nuts x 2 1124 141 8305
Choke rod 1124 185 1900
Grommet-Oil Pump Cable 1124 647 9100
Grommet-Oil Pump Adjuster 1124 647 9105
Filter base nuts x 2 1124 141 8305
Choke rod 1124 185 1900
Lakeside53
Stihl Wrenching
It just takes a little practice, but basicaly you just tap it a little at time around he edge - just like you do with the screwdriver...) biasing it in the direction you want. I'll post a pic of the "stihl" tool (same as everyone else) tonight. Cheap... about 5 of them cover almost all saws. Same with bearing arbors and shaft covers (to slide the seal over the crank lip).
Austin1
Addicted to ArboristSite
How about putting the crank in liquid nitrogen that should make it small enough. I used to work at engine Rebuilding shop and that's what they did for Cylinder sleeves worked very good just drop them in a warm block. I have access to liquid nitrogen so for me I would give it a try submerse the crank in it and it should just slide in?
I worked there when I was a kid and on weekends we would catch mice in the lunchroom then take them out to the shop for a bath. They shattered when they hit the ground!
Heck now that I am old we still do the same thing.
I am not sure if it would do damage to something as tiny as a chainsaw crank but I would give it a try since it is a resource I have access to.
As long as you let everything warm up at room temp I can see no wrong in using liquid Nitrogen.
Lakeside53
Stihl Wrenching
I know of guys doing that, but I would be concerned about the crank big end bearing. A lot of assumptions made about clearances with dissimilar metals (bearing) are out of the window at -320F....
Dan Forsh
Addicted to ArboristSite
parrisw
Tree Freak
Bowtie
Gearhead
I seem to remember bullfrogs and M-80's as a kid...:monkey:
Sounds like I need to post some more progress to get us back on track here
I was too lazy tonight for that though. I'll likely get back on it tomorrow.
I was too lazy tonight for that though. I'll likely get back on it tomorrow.
I got a little more done tonight.
Remember how easy I said it was installing the oil tube on the rebuild saw? Not this time! I tried heating the tube by the stove, walking over, and pushing it in. No luck. I tried a little lube. Uh uh. So out came the handy hair dryer. Here's the funny part. I used a tiny little ball peen hammer to tap it in while I heated the far end. That's how stiff this tubing is. Once I had the heat on it, it tapped right into place. Here I am installing the brass fitting. A center punch works nicely here.
Don't forget to put this spring in before pushing the tube onto the pump. Keeps it from kinking.
Again, the hair dryer is your friend.
Installed the cover.
Then the spur gear.
The pump cover is installed.
Then the large washer.
Remember how easy I said it was installing the oil tube on the rebuild saw? Not this time! I tried heating the tube by the stove, walking over, and pushing it in. No luck. I tried a little lube. Uh uh. So out came the handy hair dryer. Here's the funny part. I used a tiny little ball peen hammer to tap it in while I heated the far end. That's how stiff this tubing is. Once I had the heat on it, it tapped right into place. Here I am installing the brass fitting. A center punch works nicely here.
Don't forget to put this spring in before pushing the tube onto the pump. Keeps it from kinking.
Again, the hair dryer is your friend.
Installed the cover.
Then the spur gear.
The pump cover is installed.
Then the large washer.
The clutch goes on next.
Lube and install the needle bearing. I used a little bearing grease.
Line up the notch in the clutch drum with the wire spring from the spur gear. This allows the oiler to only pump oil when the clutch is engaged. Most Stihl pro level saws are designed just like this. There's actually another system for the 084 but this is the later.
Here the brake band has been installed.
And finally, the rim sprocket, washer, and e-clip.
Lube and install the needle bearing. I used a little bearing grease.
Line up the notch in the clutch drum with the wire spring from the spur gear. This allows the oiler to only pump oil when the clutch is engaged. Most Stihl pro level saws are designed just like this. There's actually another system for the 084 but this is the later.
Here the brake band has been installed.
And finally, the rim sprocket, washer, and e-clip.
parrisw
Tree Freak
Nice work!!! Cant wait to see it all together.
