Assembling the NOS 084

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How about a compromise of tecniques? If you haven't played with them, you will find that the cages are rather pliable. They're very easy to remove. The flywheel side cage is installed from the crank side, so it's removal before heating and installation is not an option. The clutch side installs from the outside. So I popped it out. The case half is in the oven at 200F for starters. If it won't drop in there, I'll bump it up. I'm still leary of hurting the finish. I believe I've seen cases bubble at 300F, but they weren't new and may have already had issues. I'm not taking any unnecessary chances. Once the crank is in the clutch side, I'll pull the flywheel side on.

You're compromising your bearing integrity unworriedly yet you're really concerned with paint? Sheesh, talk about silly priorities!
 
Lol,,,,,,

You're compromising your bearing integrity unworriedly yet you're really concerned with paint? Sheesh, talk about silly priorities!

Aww quit smakin him so hard Space,,,,,:clap: :clap: :clap: :buttkick: @ least hes trying!!!!!! and FCOL its gotta look good,,,,

Brad as much as you like to do this for your personal saws & Fleabay saw sales business youd be better off buying the Stihl case spitter/crank remove/ install tool and a convection oven,,,,, then you would only have to heat empty cases to install bearings and you could mount/dismount the cranks without the added heating and freezing cycles,,,,paint burning,,drama???? and the convection oven is better on the paint also an arbor press from harbour freight would be good,,,
 
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Do you install all the seals on your saws this way??




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Four of the silliest little parts are going to keep me from finishing this saw. They've been on backorder for more than 2 weeks now. We're talking <$15 for all of them. Anyone have a lead?

Grommet-Oil Pump Cable 1124 647 9100
Grommet-Oil Pump Adjuster 1124 647 9105
Filter base nuts x 2 1124 141 8305
Choke rod 1124 185 1900
 
I have used a socket that fits the OD. But it's harder to get it the same depth all the way around.

It just takes a little practice, but basicaly you just tap it a little at time around he edge - just like you do with the screwdriver...) biasing it in the direction you want. I'll post a pic of the "stihl" tool (same as everyone else) tonight. Cheap... about 5 of them cover almost all saws. Same with bearing arbors and shaft covers (to slide the seal over the crank lip).
 
It just takes a little practice, but basicaly you just tap it a little at time around he edge - just like you do with the screwdriver...) biasing it in the direction you want. I'll post a pic of the "stihl" tool (same as everyone else) tonight. Cheap... about 5 of them cover almost all saws. Same with bearing arbors and shaft covers (to slide the seal over the crank lip).
How about putting the crank in liquid nitrogen that should make it small enough. I used to work at engine Rebuilding shop and that's what they did for Cylinder sleeves worked very good just drop them in a warm block. I have access to liquid nitrogen so for me I would give it a try submerse the crank in it and it should just slide in?
I worked there when I was a kid and on weekends we would catch mice in the lunchroom then take them out to the shop for a bath. They shattered when they hit the ground!
Heck now that I am old we still do the same thing.
I am not sure if it would do damage to something as tiny as a chainsaw crank but I would give it a try since it is a resource I have access to.
As long as you let everything warm up at room temp I can see no wrong in using liquid Nitrogen.
 
I know of guys doing that, but I would be concerned about the crank big end bearing. A lot of assumptions made about clearances with dissimilar metals (bearing) are out of the window at -320F....
 
I have access to liquid nitrogen so for me I would give it a try submerse the crank in it and it should just slide in?
I worked there when I was a kid and on weekends we would catch mice in the lunchroom then take them out to the shop for a bath. They shattered when they hit the ground! Heck now that I am old we still do the same thing.
I can see no wrong in using liquid Nitrogen.

You're sick man, sick!!

What do you do for an encore? Frogs and compressed air?
 
I worked there when I was a kid and on weekends we would catch mice in the lunchroom then take them out to the shop for a bath. They shattered when they hit the ground!
Heck now that I am old we still do the same thing.


HMMMMMMMMM, this kinda reminds me of Beavis & Butthead, if ya know who they are.
 
I got a little more done tonight.

Remember how easy I said it was installing the oil tube on the rebuild saw? Not this time! I tried heating the tube by the stove, walking over, and pushing it in. No luck. I tried a little lube. Uh uh. So out came the handy hair dryer. Here's the funny part. I used a tiny little ball peen hammer to tap it in while I heated the far end. That's how stiff this tubing is. Once I had the heat on it, it tapped right into place. Here I am installing the brass fitting. A center punch works nicely here.
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Don't forget to put this spring in before pushing the tube onto the pump. Keeps it from kinking.
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Again, the hair dryer is your friend.
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Installed the cover.
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Then the spur gear.
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The pump cover is installed.
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Then the large washer.
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The clutch goes on next.
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Lube and install the needle bearing. I used a little bearing grease.
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Line up the notch in the clutch drum with the wire spring from the spur gear. This allows the oiler to only pump oil when the clutch is engaged. Most Stihl pro level saws are designed just like this. There's actually another system for the 084 but this is the later.
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Here the brake band has been installed.
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And finally, the rim sprocket, washer, and e-clip.
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