Bar Differences

[GRTimberCO]

I'm trying to educate myself on the different bars for chainsaws. I did a forum search but it kept coming up "no matches". If this has all been well covered please just link me to it.

I picked up a used 372xp yesterday and got on Bailey's shopping for a new bar for it atleast 28". There were models by Oregon, Carlton, Husqvarna, Woodsman Pro, etc. Some where solid, some sprocket tipped, some laminated. They came in. 050, .058, .063 gauge. The 385 I sold several years ago had a 28" Forester bar that was fine I suppose but I have no recollection what gauge it would have been. What does all this mean so I can make a well educated decision? Thanks for the help.

 

[mdavlee]

More than likely .050" will be most easily found in your area. If you don't mind ordering chains then get whatever bar you can get the best deal on there. I would stick with a sprocket tip bar.

 

[cowboyvet]

Sprocket tip bars have less drag than hard nose bars and are used most of the time. Hard nose is better for dirty conditions like cutting stumps. Solid bars are stronger and better bars but show in price and weight. Laminated bars are cheaper and lighter but not as durable. As far as chain gage they are all about equal. Go with what you can get your hands on easily. I like to stay with the same gage on all my saws so I can by a roll of chain and make loops as needed.

 

[SawTroll]

28" or more is not ideal on that saw. I wouldn't want to use them regularly! :msp_wink:

 

[GRTimberCO]

28" or more is not ideal on that saw. I wouldn't want to use them regularly! :msp_wink:

The saw is pulling a 20" bar right now and normally will about half the time. Occasionally I get into some big cottonwooks, oaks and sweetgums. What would you suggest?

 

[SawTroll]

The saw is pulling a 20" bar right now and normally will about half the time. Occasionally I get into some big cottonwooks, oaks and sweetgums. What would you suggest?

A larger saw for that use, or try skip chain for occational use.

 

[mdavlee]

The husky techlite bars, oregon reduced weight, and stihl light bars will make the 28" feel like a 20" on a 372. That and skip or semi skip chain and it will be fine for occasional use. I run a 24" or 28" all the time on a 372. The 20" has been used once in the past two years. I find myself stooping and bending farther than I want to with the 20".

 

[2dogs]

If it was up to me I would run a 28" Stihl Light and an adapter pulling Oregon 72CJ. Second choice would be an Oregon reduced weight bar. I have no experience with the Husvarna RW bar.

 

[gwiley]

I run a 28" Oregon bar on my 372 most of the time. It is a bit much if I bury it in a large oak - but in that case I adjust my cutting technique to accommodate. I like the extra reach it gives me and it is nice to not have to cut from 2 sides when felling trees to big for the shorter bars.

I would not go over 28" on the 372. Not sure about skip chain either. My thing is that I like all my 3/8" pitch saws to use chain from the same bulk roll - don't want to keep yet another flavor of chain around in bulk unless I really have to.

 

[Dennis Gauge]

Seems like people are more interested in telling you what to get than telling you what the numbers mean... There must be some sort of chainsaw glossary online somewhere, but in a nutshell:

.050 .058 .063... that's the GAUGE of the chain, basically the width of the drive links that ride in the slot in the bar. You want to stick with what you have, which should be marked on the bar.

.325 .375 3/8" .404... that's the PITCH of the chain, or the distance between pivot pins along the length of the chain. You want to stick with what you have, which should be marked on the bar.

roller/sprocket tip... exactly how it sounds; there's a roller or sprocket in the tip of the saw bar that the chain rolls around.

hardnose... means the chain just slides around the end of the bar in a track

laminated... means the bar is made by layering three flat pieces of metal together and riveting them.

solid... again, just like it sounds; the bar is made from a solid piece of metal, and the track is cut in with a machine

Unless you're a professional, a laminated roller/sprocket tip bar using the same gauge and pitch chain as what you have now is a going to give you the best bang from the buck, from what I've seen...

 

[GRTimberCO]

Thanks for the replys fellas. I ended up going to my local shop and putting a Huskvarna 28" solid bar on the saw. I would have gone with a 32" but they didn't have any in stock. I'm sure 28" will be long enough for 99% of anything I 'll be cutting.

 

[2dogs]

My 371 flat screamed with a 28" bar and 72CJ.

 

[GASoline71]

Huskvarna... Russian made saw?

Husqvarna bars are rebadged Oregon Powermatch bars.

Gary

 

[tdi-rick]

Huskvarna... Russian made saw?

Husqvarna bars are rebadged Oregon Powermatch bars.

Gary

There seems to be some old stock Husky branded GB Pro Tops floating about too.

 

[Swamp Yankee]

Buy cheap

When something rolls and the bar gets twisted and / or bent like a pretzel, it's easier to deal with trashing a $30 bar than a $65 one.

Take Care

 

[GRTimberCO]

Huskvarna... Russian made saw?

Husqvarna bars are rebadged Oregon Powermatch bars.

Gary

There seems to be some old stock Husky branded GB Pro Tops floating about too.

Curiosity got the better of me so I had to go out to the truck and look. The packaging is all Husqvarna with no mention of Oregon. Both the package and the bar itself say MADE IN CANADA.

 

[mdavlee]

Made in canada is usually oregon bars. Does it have a single rivet tip?

 

[GRTimberCO]

Made in canada is usually oregon bars. Does it have a single rivet tip?

Dang-it! Now I've got to put my flip flops back on. Hold on...

 

[NORMZILLA44]

I was always told the husky one's were oregon also. I have alway's had good luck with oregon, and Stihl bars. Those have been available in my area the most. For a decent price. I have heard good things about Windsor bars too, and seen quite a few around. I had mostly run 50 gauge like said above like to run the same, and made my own. But my 2101, and the 372 came with .063 so I kept em. New bars, and chain why switch em. The .050 is popular here, and seems like chain sttrength has gotten better over the years, and I have never broke one. I ran a 32 on my 044 without issues, but I like the 28 best on it, and a good all around size. My 372 I just got came with a 24, and 28 I have no use for the 24. You gain reach with the 28, and I think they balance really good on the 70 cc saws. I cant see them having a problem with a 28. But when I get into big stuff I have the luxury of the 660, and the 2101.

 

[GRTimberCO]

Looks like 2 rivets to me