Best Stihl for running 20" Bar
- Thread starter trl91
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Naked Arborist
Hack from way back.
50-60cc buy what you can afford. Pro saws are always better and the money spent is well worth it in more ways than one.
HuskStihl
Chairin'em for the sound
This is exactly what the MS290 is for. If fed decent gas (I recommend the premixed Tru-fuel to occasional cutters), it will last forever. 455 or 460 in the orange brand will accomplish the same thing. Happy, safe cutting!
ckelp
just being myself
290 is 54cc the 362 is a pro saw, if i remember it's 64cc it will pull a 20" no problem..
i'd recommend if your going for non-pro 290 or 310 will work ok
firewood/racher grade is semi pro
pro well it's a pro saw usually lighter with more power for the size
memory
ArboristSite Guru
The 362 is a pro saw which means you can rebuild the engine when the time comes and are suited more for people who use their saw for a living. It just depends if you want to spend the extra money on a pro saw.
The 362 will pull a 20" bar no problem.
The 362 will pull a 20" bar no problem.
Yes.
The 290 is a lower grade saw. For a 20" bar, a 60cc saw is a better choice.
The 311 is the equivalent of the 290 but is 60cc.
Both the 290 and 311 are clam shell saws. The 362 is a pro grade saw.
For occasional use the farm/ranch grade saw will work fine.
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044 all the way. A bigger saw will handle everything better than a smaller saw, and the 044 is pretty much the same weight as a 362 or so.
Philip Wheelock
Finis Origine Pendet
The Stihl website recommends a 16" bar for the MS290 and a 20" bar for the MS391, MS362, and MS440 models. Go a bit longer if you're cutting softwoods. As you know, a lot depends on the range of wood diameters you'll be cutting. I run a 20" on my 440; might think about a 25" later on, but I'm still getting used to the saw. The 440 uses more fuel than the 362, if that's a consideration.
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I see the 391 is 64 CC and the 362 is 59 CC. Does this mean that the 391 is more powerful? Your going to have to forgive my arrogance with chainsaws. Also the 391 is about $200 less then the 362. Other then the power to weight ratio of the pro saws, what makes the pro saws better? Thanks, Tom
Why are you interested in a 20" bar? Reach/less bending? You encounter 20" wood or larger? Other?
If you will be burying a 20" bar on a regular basis, then get a good 60cc saw.
If you will be burying a 20" bar on a regular basis, then get a good 60cc saw.
HuskStihl
Chairin'em for the sound
I'll agree that a 290 would struggle with a 20" bar buried in oak, but from the sound of the OP, this is unlikely to be the case. I think a 290 will be fine, if you want to spend a little more for a 311 no harm there. I always recommend occasional cutters, especially arrogant ones:biggrin:, buy new with a warranty.
spindrift7mm
Changing the World One Saw at a time !
East coast - 880
West coast - 260
West coast - 260
90% of the logs I cut are usually old growth oaks or hard maple be it dead or just need to come down. I can say that I would probably be fine with an 18" bar but would like the 20" for an occasional big log. Would you say the price at the dealer will be MSRP or a little cheaper? I live in central PA
fearofpavement
Trying them all
Based on the intended use, I think the MS290 or 310 would be a good fit. Also the Husqvarna 455 or 460 would do the job. I don't think a pro saw with its higher price would provide any advantage in this case. Not going to be used four or five days every week.
OK, here's my 2c:
A homeowner-type saw (Stihl 290/291/310/311/390/391, Husqvarna 455/460) will probably be happy enough with a 20" bar and .325" chain. This is a versatile combination, though it isn't terribly fast, and meets the price-point desires of most non-professional, non-enthusiast owners. Run good gas, keep your chain sharp, open up their terribly restrictive exhaust system, and you'll be fine for years of firewood, deadfall, and helping the neighbor clean up after a storm.
Stihl 361/362 or similar Husqvarna gets you a step up in construction, using a magnesium crankcase instead of a plastic engine cradle/oil tank assembly. The saw will be lighter and more nimble for its power output, likely lighter than the homeowner-type saws discussed above. It will also cost more. The new crop of Husqvarnas in this class are said to be very impressive.
The next step up, the 70cc saws (Stihl 044/440, 441, 046/460, Husqvarna 372/576, etc.) are really good saws for 20" bars in hardwood. They have the guts to pull HARD in this stuff, and their oilers are big enough to feed much longer bars, so you've got some extra capacity there when cutting really dry stuff. Do you need one of these? Probably not unless productivity is an issue, and certainly not if you're buying retail. But you can often find a solid used saw, particularly the older Stihl 044 or Husqvarna 272, for $300-400 in great shape, in which case you are MUCH better off buying this than buying a new homeowner-type saw for the same money or more.
A homeowner-type saw (Stihl 290/291/310/311/390/391, Husqvarna 455/460) will probably be happy enough with a 20" bar and .325" chain. This is a versatile combination, though it isn't terribly fast, and meets the price-point desires of most non-professional, non-enthusiast owners. Run good gas, keep your chain sharp, open up their terribly restrictive exhaust system, and you'll be fine for years of firewood, deadfall, and helping the neighbor clean up after a storm.
Stihl 361/362 or similar Husqvarna gets you a step up in construction, using a magnesium crankcase instead of a plastic engine cradle/oil tank assembly. The saw will be lighter and more nimble for its power output, likely lighter than the homeowner-type saws discussed above. It will also cost more. The new crop of Husqvarnas in this class are said to be very impressive.
The next step up, the 70cc saws (Stihl 044/440, 441, 046/460, Husqvarna 372/576, etc.) are really good saws for 20" bars in hardwood. They have the guts to pull HARD in this stuff, and their oilers are big enough to feed much longer bars, so you've got some extra capacity there when cutting really dry stuff. Do you need one of these? Probably not unless productivity is an issue, and certainly not if you're buying retail. But you can often find a solid used saw, particularly the older Stihl 044 or Husqvarna 272, for $300-400 in great shape, in which case you are MUCH better off buying this than buying a new homeowner-type saw for the same money or more.
MS660 :msp_thumbup:
In all seriousness, oiler performance needs to be considered based on intended use. Around here, I see a lot of burnt bars on bigger homeowner/farm-ranch saws from lack of oil.
I don't know if a MS460 would fit in your budget, but more performance never hurts.
Philip Wheelock
Finis Origine Pendet
No. The 391 has larger displacement and makes 4.4 hp, but the 362 makes 4.6 hp and weighs 1.1 lbs. less.
As far a chainsaws go, it's true that you get what you pay for. The 362 is a better saw with better components.
Short list: More robust yet lighter construction, including magnesium cases instead of plastic; Designed to be easier to maintain and repair; More reliable and able to handle more demanding jobs; Service life is much longer; More efficient and satisfying to operate. :smile:
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SawTroll
Information Collector
Of the Stihls, I would take an 044 or a 440 any day, despite its rather dated design.
