BG86-C issues

[ANewSawyer]

That is what did. You could price a new snap on guage kit but I bet you wouldn't like the price. Why not first try to find the adaptor I am using by itself? It is an M26 (metric). I will get the full deminsions later.

If you do get the Chinese carb, open it up and check out the insides before you run it. Just to make sure that there isn't a problem. I had one with a misplaced screen.

 

[LonestarStihl]

That is what did. You could price a new snap on guage kit but I bet you wouldn't like the price. Why not first try to find the adaptor I am using by itself? It is an M26 (metric). I will get the full deminsions later.

If you do get the Chinese carb, open it up and check out the insides before you run it. Just to make sure that there isn't a problem. I had one with a misplaced screen.

Well I paid over $70 for mine so buying another adapter and whatever else would get me close to 100. I might as well find a good used snap on for that. I'm going to check a couple of Stihl dealers to see what OEM carb will cost me first then I'll go with the communist carb


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[ANewSawyer]

I think I paid a hair over $50 for my tester, four adaptors and some misc stuff. On the bay.

 

[LonestarStihl]

I think I paid a hair over $50 for my tester, four adaptors and some misc stuff. On the bay.

I'm starting some searches on there to monitor for some good stuff


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[LonestarStihl]

Probably would run with that compression, if you have spark, put a beer cap full of gas down the plug hole and see if it fires. Also since you know nothing about this blower make sure the stop switch is tried in both positions and if it feel goofy make sure it is operating properly.

Alright I did a small capful into the plug hole and let er rip. It was a success! It fired up and puttered out as I would expect with little gas. So that points to carb and fuel lines correct?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[ANewSawyer]

Yes, it would point toward carb and lines.

 

[LonestarStihl]

Another update for all who have helped. I haven't been able to go by another dealer yet to ask about parts so I decided to look inside the carb. It looks nice and clean so I checked all my lines. Couldn't see any issues so I actually just filled the gas tank until there was no air. I started pumping the bulb only to find gas was coming out of a hole in one of the lines. So it would appear the gas line is causing it to lose suction


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[ANewSawyer]

The carb can be clean but what do the diaphrams look like? Are they hard and stiff or soft and flexable?

 

[LonestarStihl]

The carb can be clean but what do the diaphrams look like? Are they hard and stiff or soft and flexable?

Diaphragm being the rubber gaskets on each side? I'm not savvy to all the technical terms. If so they appeared soft and flexible but I didn't pay as much attention


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[GrassGuerilla]

Another update for all who have helped. I haven't been able to go by another dealer yet to ask about parts so I decided to look inside the carb. It looks nice and clean so I checked all my lines. Couldn't see any issues so I actually just filled the gas tank until there was no air. I started pumping the bulb only to find gas was coming out of a hole in one of the lines. So it would appear the gas line is causing it to lose suction


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

As I said before, fuel lines...

As to the comp tester. It's all relative. If having an exact compression is important to you, find either the right adaptor, or buy the cheapo tester from Baileys (site sponsor). I've had mine a couple years now and it seems to be fine. Alternatively, accept that your tester is giving a falsely low number. (Wild speculative guess here), but I'd bet your blower is closer to 140-150 actual psi. For me, I could live with that. Or send it back, get the Baileys unit and pocket the $20-30 difference.

 

[ANewSawyer]

The diaphrams are the thin pieces that take most of the carb space when you take off the covers. The gaskets just go around the edge.

 

[LonestarStihl]

As I said before, fuel lines...

As to the comp tester. It's all relative. If having an exact compression is important to you, find either the right adaptor, or buy the cheapo tester from Baileys (site sponsor). I've had mine a couple years now and it seems to be fine. Alternatively, accept that your tester is giving a falsely low number. (Wild speculative guess here), but I'd bet your blower is closer to 140-150 actual psi. For me, I could live with that. Or send it back, get the Baileys unit and pocket the $20-30 difference.

I'm going to return the craftsman one and find a decent price on a snapon on eBay. I found a decent one now I'm waiting to see how the bidding goes. If I'm going to have a tester that's off then I'm. It paying 70+. I'm going to do the fuel lines first and if it runs I'll leave it alone. I'm not going for gold on it just silver will do


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[LonestarStihl]

The diaphrams are the thin pieces that take most of the carb space when you take off the covers. The gaskets just go around the edge.

I didn't completely disassemble the carb yet. I'll check it next


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[LonestarStihl]

Alright gents I haven't forgotten y'all and I needed to update. I got fuel lines and installed. Bulb filled with gas and it started on the 4th pull. It did not run well so I let it go at idle speed and slowly give it gas and it seemed to build up speed slowly. The muffler appeared to get very hot fast as it ran less than a minute and seemed to smoke a tad but from heat. I cut it off and my 3 year old got but as he tried to help at the muffler shroud. I cannot get it to run again except for a short bit in full choke. I ran compression test on it again and now it will not register any compression. Guidance?

 

[LonestarStihl]

Oh and I did get a used snapon compression tester off eBay. I've checked it on my Husky 450 and it shows 140psi so I'd imagine it's good to go. It has separate tubes with schrader valves on the end of each so no further adapters

 

[diezelsmoke]

The smoking is because the engine was flooded and needs to just get cleaned out, let it run a while longer and adjust up the H side of the carb, probably a 1/4 counter clock and see if that improves, may have to go more. Might want to bump up the idle temp. to help in the process.

 

[LonestarStihl]

The smoking is because the engine was flooded and needs to just get cleaned out, let it run a while longer and adjust up the H side of the carb, probably a 1/4 counter clock and see if that improves, may have to go more. Might want to bump up the idle temp. to help in the process.

Thanks. I was leaning towards carb needing adjusted and maybe some burn off. It was in rough condition when I got it so I figured that could be a possibility as well. I'll do that tomorrow. Thanks!

 

[LonestarStihl]

So it hit me today that the compression tube I bought may not have come with a valve installed. Low and behold I was correct. So I need to find schrader valve cores and a tool. Do y'all know if it's the same size core as a tire?

 

[LonestarStihl]

Got it running but it doesn't feel like it has much too end. It stalls if I try to go to fast on it sometimes. I have adjusted the low speed but then it feels as though it'll be good for a while and changes. The top end really is where it seems to be missing he power

 

[ANewSawyer]

Sounds rich to me but I am on a tablet with cheap built in speakers. I would pressure and vacuum test, if it were me to make sure there isn't a leak. Optional, if you want to. But that is the only reason I could think of for the high speed changing. Unless, you haven't rebuilt or cleaned the carb yet. If you haven't, I would definitely open the carb and clean it with spray carb cleaner.

Also, how old is the fuel you are putting in it?