Brand new MS261 woes.

[1Alpha1]

Hope it is something simple but are you sure you don't have an engine problem like a scored piston? May be worth taking a look. Did you buy the saw new or used? Sometimes engine damage can cause the symptoms you are describing.

It's a brand-new saw. The dealer put pre-mix in it and bar oil as well, before he fired it up. He filled both tanks full.

I've started it now about 10 times. Some tries were easier than others.

I just got back from doing a cold-start. It took me about 4-5 pulls before it came to life. It does seem to be getting a little easier the more I try.

I'm gonna keep farting around with it over the weekend. I figure another day and I should be able to decipher it's secret starting code.

 

[1Alpha1]

i'm not gonna say, what i really wanna say !!!!

Go ahead and speak your mind cowboy. We're all grown-ups.

Just don't mind me if I have a response. :msp_wink:

 

[russhd1997]

Are you cutting any wood with it once you get it started or are you starting it and shutting it off right away? You need to cut some wood and get it warmed up good between these cold/luke warm restarts.

My MS180 and MS290 use the same starting procedure as mentioned in earlier posts. Cold start, full choke and pull until it pops then move switch up 1 position and pull until it starts. Blip throttle and go cut wood. Warm restart move lever to full choke then up one click BEFORE pulling rope. Blip throttle and go cut wood.

Not trying to be a smart ass, Hope this helps. I don't think that there is anything wrong with you or your new saw. I think you just have to get used to it and get it broke in.

 

[1Alpha1]

Next time you start it, cut some wood. Seems like you are flooding the saw. Running a saw that has previously been flooded for a few minutes no load and not fully up to normal temp. will not clear all the excess fuel from the engine. Then next time you try to start it, particulary if it is not stone cold, and choke it, the saw will be easier to flood. So quit running it until you are ready to work it. The saw will thank you due to the rings will seat quicker and better if put it under load instead of just running it "in the air"

Each time I had to pull the plug, clean it, and I then dried out the combustion chamber before I tried to start it again.

Having done that, it fired right up on first pull.

 

[1Alpha1]

Are you cutting any wood with it once you get it started or are you starting it and shutting it off right away? You need to cut some wood and get it warmed up good between these cold/luke warm restarts.

My MS180 and MS290 use the same starting procedure as mentioned in earlier posts. Cold start, full choke and pull until it pops then move switch up 1 position and pull until it starts. Blip throttle and go cut wood. Warm restart move lever to full choke then up one click BEFORE pulling rope. Blip throttle and go cut wood.

Not trying to be a smart ass, Hope this helps. I don't think that there is anything wrong with you or your new saw. I think you just have to get used to it and get it broke in.

A very real possibility and no, you didn't come across as a smart-ass.....unlike some who have.

 

[dl5205]

Use your comp release. It's not there to save your arm, it's there to save wear and tear on the starter. Read the manual if you haven't.

Calling folks "cowboy", and telling others to "kiss your @$$", after all the queries you've made here in the last sev days AIN'T cool.

Just sayin'

 

[1Alpha1]

Use your comp release. It's not there to save your arm, it's there to save wear and tear on the starter. Read the manual if you haven't.

Calling folks "cowboy", and telling others to "kiss your @$$", after all the queries you've made here in the last sev days AIN'T cool.

Just sayin'

So it's okay for others to imply things, but it's not okay for me to reply or tell them to go ahead and speak their mind.

I can dish it out, and I can take it as well.

I appreciate all the help I've received, but no way I'm gonna lie down and be walked on.

BTW....The STIHL dealer told me he never uses the comp. release on smaller saws. He told me to do what works best.

 

[stihlrookie]

Each time I had to pull the plug, clean it, and I then dried out the combustion chamber before I tried to start it again.

Having done that, it fired right up on first pull.

If you are starting it and running it, throttle blipping, idling and so on and then shutting it off and repeating, the saw will get 'loaded' up. I agree, its fun to play with your new toy but get some wood to cut, it will make you much happier and avoid the loading up issue it now sounds like you may be having. Saws are meant to be run WOT under load.

 

[1Alpha1]

If you are starting it and running it, throttle blipping, idling and so on and then shutting it off and repeating, the saw will get 'loaded' up. I agree, its fun to play with your new toy but get some wood to cut, it will make you much happier and avoid the loading up issue it now sounds like you may be having. Saws are meant to be run WOT under load.

Therein lies the problem. I don't have any wood available to me right now to cut. If I were to commence cutting on the trees on my property, I think my wife would have issues.

And....if the saw won't start, you won't cut much wood.

 

[Dan_in_WI]

Therein lies the problem. I don't have any wood available to me right now to cut.

If you live near me I can solve that problem.

 

[albert]

Therein lies the problem. I don't have any wood available to me right now to cut. If I were to commence cutting on the trees on my property, I think my wife would have issues.

And....if the saw won't start, you won't cut much wood.

You got it start. You won't know if the saw has a problem or if it is what you are doing, until you get the saw in some wood and work it. It is quite possible there is a carb issue. No one will know until this happens.

 

[1Alpha1]

Just to clarify a few things.

I am not a logger. I don't cut / climb on trees for a living. I don't heat my home with wood. I have very little experience compared to most of you, when it comes to cutting wood.

But, cutting wood isn't rocket science. I've done it in the past and came back with all my limbs intact. Matter-of-fact, I've never lost a drop of blood doing so.

I don't collect chainsaws, but do have an interest in them. I like having one available to me when I need it. I do help buddies when they get wood, and I like taking a saw with me when camping.

When I buy something, I try my best to buy the best, that I can afford at the time.

Having stated the above, I hope that it makes matters better and not worse.

 

[blsnelling]

I understand that you're frustrated, but, first and foremost, don't blame the brand and don't blame the model. If there is a problem with the saw, they will make it right. There have been lemons of every model. That's how it goes. You bought a fantastic model of saw. Don't doubt your purchase decistion.

Now what you need to do, is go cut wood. If it still has a problem after than, then take it back to the dealer.

 

[jropo]

New saw, no pic's?

:smile2:

 

[hoeyrd2110]

Did your dealer run it and start the break in process? Varying rpm with choke slightly on until exhaust cleans up and rings begin to seat? Sounds like ur saw just got fired revved once or twice then shut off and handed to yah. Nothing to do with the model or brand...it will clean up once you get in wood. Just be gentle the first few cuts until the rings start to seat then hammer away

 

[s219]

Everything you've described makes it sound like you're flooding it (emphasis on you). I would venture a guess that not using the de-comp means you are not giving the saw an honest pull. The decomp definitely helps start a 261. You'll realize that the first time you start it with the piston in a certain place and you nearly tear your wrist off or break the cord. So just use the decomp like you're supposed to. Geez -- dock yourself 10 points for not following user manual instructions and then complaining!

For a cold start, with decomp in, it should take no more than 2-3 pulls on choke before the 261 kicks over, at which point you move the lever to fast idle and it should start in 1 more pull. I sure wouldn't pull more than 3-4 times with the choke on unless it was a new saw, or a saw run dry, and you had to move some fuel into the carb.

Note, DO NOT choke a Stihl that has been started within the last 30 minutes or so -- you can start that at idle or fast idle. You'll flood it for sure if you choke it. You may need some experience cutting with the saw to know when it's warm, lukewarm, or cold.

I have zero problems starting my 261, but one of my buddies was using it a few weeks ago and he was completely incompetant at starting the saw. He was flooding it left and right. He really had no concept of warm/cold, when choke was needed, how the lever worked, etc, and he kept trying to choke it. He also wasn't familair with a decomp and wasn't using it unless I reminded him. So I have firsthand experience seeing operator error in action.

If all else fails, bring it to the dealer and they will determine if there is a real problem with the saw before you drive yourself insane. No sense beating yourself over the head with the saw if there's a chance it has a defect or problem.

 

[Philip Wheelock]

It's the saw.

I'm betting that saw's not right. Never had a Stihl saw fail to start.

 

[1Alpha1]

Did your dealer run it and start the break in process? Varying rpm with choke slightly on until exhaust cleans up and rings begin to seat? Sounds like ur saw just got fired revved once or twice then shut off and handed to yah. Nothing to do with the model or brand...it will clean up once you get in wood. Just be gentle the first few cuts until the rings start to seat then hammer away

Yup, the dealer started it up and ran it. I can't tell you exactly what he did, as the saw was run out back and away from the sales room.

He also filled both tanks up. So.....I have to assume that he didn't put straight gas in it.

And yes I know, not all dealers are created equally. It's getting kind of hard to tell the good ones from the bad ones. :msp_rolleyes:

 

[hoeyrd2110]

Yup, the dealer started it up and ran it. I can't tell you exactly what he did, as the saw was run out back and away from the sales room.

He also filled both tanks up. So.....I have to assume that he didn't put straight gas in it.

And yes I know, not all dealers are created equally. It's getting kind of hard to tell the good ones from the bad ones. :msp_rolleyes:

so your only option then is run it into some wood. Then if it's stihl(had to sorry:hmm3grin2orange giving you fits take it back. Chances are you just gotta get them puppies warm and cozy with the crosshatch for alittle under load. hope you dont' have to take it back!

if you do wind up taking it back and he filled the gas up and it's flooding. see if there is water in the fuel. if he gives you a run around which i hope he doesn't ask him where and when he got his mix and what grade of gas it is...water will hold a needle open...

 

[Andyshine77]

Yup, the dealer started it up and ran it. I can't tell you exactly what he did, as the saw was run out back and away from the sales room.

He also filled both tanks up. So.....I have to assume that he didn't put straight gas in it.

And yes I know, not all dealers are created equally. It's getting kind of hard to tell the good ones from the bad ones. :msp_rolleyes:

Sorry, but you simply don't know how to start the saw correctly, nothing more. Go back to your dealer and watch him start the saw and do the same. After that read the instructions carefully.