Chain sharpeners....

[gwiley]

I use a file on my chains without a guide and it has always worked well. If you have a steady hand and an eye for detail you can use the witness marks on the cutters to handle the angle. I just hit the rakers when the chips look dusty, I have found that 4 strokes with flat file fixes them up nicely. Most of my filing is done as my refuel routine - every tank of gas the chain gets a touch up with the files.

One of the most important things is consistency between teeth - do it exactly the same way for each cutter to avoid the saw cutting curves.

Guides will give you an even better result, but I find that this is so fast that I don't think the guide would give me enough benefit to use them unless I am home at my bench.

 

[fishercat]

i think the basic grinder would do you fine.

no sense getting to complicated one to start out with.i have an expensive grinder (Stihl) and i just change the height and direction.i usually stay at 30 degrees.

 

[Curlycherry1]

File and by hand. Never used a sharpener in my life and I used up >3 100' rolls of chain in the days when I used to cut.

Use good files, not cheap Chinwaneze junk, throw them after they show signs of wear. I used to average about 2 files for the full life of a chain, max. Buy in bulk and files are dirt cheap. Do NOT drag the file backwards, NEVER! Lift it off after its cutting stroke and then continue with another cutting stroke. Use a vise clamped to a tree stump or better yet a workbench to hold the saw solid. Good position and solid holding of the saw when filing is important.

 

[mtfallsmikey]

Not to plug a product, but hand filing is MUCH easier with the Save-Edge files. A friend went in with me on a 511AX Oregon grinder, if you're going to buy a grinder, save the coin and get it.

 

[mtngun]

A friend went in with me on a 511AX Oregon grinder, if you're going to buy a grinder, save the coin and get it.

What do you like about the 511ax ?

I have the Jolly Star which is the same thing minus the wheel wear compensation. It's a good grinder, but not perfect. I'm not sure if the perfect grinder exists, and if it did, I probably couldn't afford it.

 

[isaaccarlson]

I started out with ONLY a file, then I picked up the HF grinder

for when I rock a chain or hit a nail, fencepost, etc. I still use a file after grinding. I only grind when I have to.

 

[Nosmo]

How about starting out filing by hand so you'll learn how to make that chain really do what it is supposed to do. Later on getting an electric grinder would be OK.

I always carry my hand file and C-clamps with me so I can resharpen my chain while in the woods.

Nosmo

 

[hardy steve]

Ok newbie at sharpening.Bought the right stihl file for the chain.Clamped in vise.Everything looked good.I stayed at same angle as chain.Just pushed stroke no pulling .I hit every tooth about 4 good licks.They all looked nice and even and sharp.I do know how to use a file ,but chain sharpening (not yet)Tried it out it was like I never even put a file on it.:censored:

 

[Coldfront]

Nobody mentioned it but if hand filing, clamp the bar in a vise, and also tighten up the chain, and put the chain brake on when filing, makes it a lot easier.

 

[Curlycherry1]

Ok newbie at sharpening.Bought the right stihl file for the chain.Clamped in vise.Everything looked good.I stayed at same angle as chain.Just pushed stroke no pulling .I hit every tooth about 4 good licks.They all looked nice and even and sharp.I do know how to use a file ,but chain sharpening (not yet)Tried it out it was like I never even put a file on it.:censored:

Be sure that as you make the stroke that the file is being held up towards the top of the tooth. Too many people just file and push down so all they do is sharpen the bottom of the tooth. I hold the file with both hands, with one hand on each end, and when I make my power stroke I am usually lifting up slightly on the file, not pushing down.

 

[Torin]

Be sure that as you make the stroke that the file is being held up towards the top of the tooth. Too many people just file and push down so all they do is sharpen the bottom of the tooth. I hold the file with both hands, with one hand on each end, and when I make my power stroke I am usually lifting up slightly on the file, not pushing down.

That's what I was always doing wrong. Do it like that long enough & you'll wear the link until it breaks.

 

[keving]

I too agree with useing a good file ...you gotta try those super edge files,there great..... you have to remember that a file will get dull so change them often

 

[23putts]

Be sure that as you make the stroke that the file is being held up towards the top of the tooth. Too many people just file and push down so all they do is sharpen the bottom of the tooth. I hold the file with both hands, with one hand on each end, and when I make my power stroke I am usually lifting up slightly on the file, not pushing down.

:agree2:

 

[rtrsam]

When I first started cutting wood to sell in the 1970's, I learned quick how to file a chain. Kind of like I told my wife about getting a fire lit while I was gone, you get cold enough, you'll figure it out. With me it was, saw gets dull, I either make it sharp or spend ten times as much time and effort cutting the same ammount of wood.

At first I used an Oregon file guide, but as time went past I got to be as good or better (and a lot faster) just using a file with a handle (even if sometimes that handle was just a used snot rag wrapped around the tang).

Once I was getting set to file a saw, don't remember the breed or anything. I'd cut some file handles from a busted sledge hammer handle; cut it into chunks about 3 inches long, drill a hole in the end, pound a file into the hole, and voila. I was smacking the file against the workbench to pound the tang into the hole in the handle; the file fell out of the handle, but stayed standing vertical on the workbench for a split second, just long enought for me to bring my hand down...and stick the file clean through my middle finger, right at the first knuckle. I saw what had happened, waved my hand around a bit (which hurt worse than jamming the file into my finger). Finally I sucked it up and yanked the file out of my finger.

My boss made me go to the hospital. Insult to injury, the doctor wouldn't even look at me until I spent twenty minutes washing my hands with his special hospital soap. Then he just shrugged, gave me a prescription for some antibiotics, and told me to come back if it got infected. Which it didn't.

I realize that's not a lot of help in terms of instructions, I guess the take home message is be careful even when filing a saw. Worst saw injuries I have ever had were while filing.

 

[Henry G.]

Save Edge file + Husky guide + little bit of practice = 5 minute chain sharpening any time anywhere with a bench or hammer in stump bar vise.
I actually ENJOY sharpening my chains. I bet I could do a touch up on my 28" in maybe 3 minutes tops.
Learn how to hand file its a skill worth learning.

 

[Torin]

I ordered the PFERD guide yesterday from Baileys. I can't wait to get it, along with some chain & a new bar.

 

[Lugnutz]

I'm just starting to try hand filing, true hand filing. I have the grangberg jobbie and have learned alot by using it. But when its cold and I need to sharpen up a bit I hate fumbling with it on the tailgate or stump. I did my first one by hand the other night and haven't gotten to go out and give it a try yet, but even if I didn't do a great job it has to cut better than it did.

I love filing my chain after a day out cutting. I clean my bench off, turn on the radio, pop a top on a cold beverage, take my time and just relax.

 

[flushcut]

Hand file

I use one of those husky roller guides, small and light for nearly all of my filing. When I rock my chain or hit some chunk of metal in the wood I use my grinder a Oregon model with a borzon wheel to remove the damage then I file it just a quick touch up. I would learn to file first and see how it goes then spring for a grinder if need be. You can buy a lot of chain for the money you'll spend on a grinder weather it's $100 Northern Tool or a $300 Oregon deal.

 

[unclemoustache]

Well, y'all have convinced me. I have been using a dremmel thingy, but I just ordered some files and guides from Baileys.

(I also ordered a few other necessities. Wife isn't too happy with a $200 purchase, but it was time I got some good PPE gear, and as long as I've got the order, I should get a few new chains.)

 

[mtfallsmikey]

What do you like about the 511ax ?

I have the Jolly Star which is the same thing minus the wheel wear compensation. It's a good grinder, but not perfect. I'm not sure if the perfect grinder exists, and if it did, I probably couldn't afford it.

Well, quite simply, it's a very solid, well-made piece of equipment. I stopped wasting money with stuff from tool shows, and the discount mail-order places. I don't know that it's the perfect grinder, but it is close, and it will last a lifetime if not abused. It ain't cheep, tho...