Chain tension problem

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Timmy33

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Just got my husky rancher today, assembled it, tensioned the chain then pulled the chain round by hand and its tension is not consistant? Tight in in places, then in others really slack any ideas as to my problem?
Regards: Tim
 
Hello Tim
How far do you have to move the chain between tight and loose? If it a very short distance then you may have a sprocket with a mismatched chain. If it is a longer distance then it is probably nothing to worry about. Most bar and chain combos have a tight spot especially if they have not been used in some time or if they are new. When I fit a new bar and chain to a saw I always pour some oil on the bar and chain prior to starting the saw.

Regards

Phil
 
Mismatch between sprocket and chain, or chain not properly on sprocket, is most likely - but worst case it is a bent crank.....
 
Mismatch between sprocket and chain, or chain not properly on sprocket, is most likely - but worst case it is a bent crank.....

I'm having the same problem with a new saw. I've replaced the bar, chain and sprocket. I considered a bent crank but I'm not sure that would manifest itself when pulling the chain around the bar by hand since the crank isn't turning. If the crank was bent I would think the chain would either be loose or tight when turning by hand.

My saw has one point in the chain that is loose. I marked it and it is the same on every revolution of the chain. If I adjust the chain so it is tight in the loose spot then it is to tight. If I adjust it so it is tight everywhere else then the loose spot shows about 1/2 of the driver on the bottom of the bar.

I've given up trying to fix it and I'm just using it.
 
You likely have a burr on a driver, maybe it is bent some. The way to fix it is run the saw. If you feel comfortable doing so, loosen the bar nuts enough to adjust the chain, start the saw and rev it adjusting as needed. once you have achieved proper tension tighten the nuts with the bar tip held up of course and forget about the problem. Throwing chains often causes this problem, a lot of the time the chain won't even turn. So a guy loosens the chain and wears the burr down by spinning the chain loose. tighten it back up and carry on.
 
I'm not the OP but I have run the saw a fair amount (more than five tanks) like it is. I even tried a different new chain with exactly the same result.

I'm not too worried about it. I just try to find a happy medium on the adjustment and I keep an eye on it when I'm running it.
 
Sums up whats happening to me

Only just taken it out of the box, tight against the bar one minute then rotate it and its sagging freely. Using the chain that came with the saw. Ill try the other chain I bought tomorrow hopefully it is better. Damn thing almost jumped off the bar, scared the hell out of me thats for sure. Dangerous things these chainsaws not starting it again untill im sure its good!
 
Dangerous? only if you let things get that way. Just run the thing, if it eats a sprocket you learned. If it goes away after a while you are good. Tighten that new chain, it's going to stretch.
 
Only just taken it out of the box, tight against the bar one minute then rotate it and its sagging freely. Using the chain that came with the saw. Ill try the other chain I bought tomorrow hopefully it is better. Damn thing almost jumped off the bar, scared the hell out of me thats for sure. Dangerous things these chainsaws not starting it again untill im sure its good!

Worn-out sprocket. I bet you will see grooves in the top of teeth if you look.
 
I'm having the same problem with a new saw. I've replaced the bar, chain and sprocket. I considered a bent crank but I'm not sure that would manifest itself when pulling the chain around the bar by hand since the crank isn't turning. If the crank was bent I would think the chain would either be loose or tight when turning by hand. .....

Yes, that is true.

In your case, I would start with swapping out one component at a time, to find out which one is "guilty".
 
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Worn sprocket?

The saw has run less then a minute, no grooves in it. Its brand spanking new blade, bar and saw has never been in a log i only got it today, my old saw on the other hand I can see its worn on the sprocket but this ones not cut once
 
You likely have a burr on a driver, maybe it is bent some. The way to fix it is run the saw. If you feel comfortable doing so, loosen the bar nuts enough to adjust the chain, start the saw and rev it adjusting as needed. once you have achieved proper tension tighten the nuts with the bar tip held up of course and forget about the problem. Throwing chains often causes this problem, a lot of the time the chain won't even turn. So a guy loosens the chain and wears the burr down by spinning the chain loose. tighten it back up and carry on.

If the drive links are deformed, let me suggest that you NOT do that. Rather, use whatever large hammer you have with a flat face as an anvil, and peen the drive links flat with a small hammer. Your suggestion is abusive to b&c.

Adjusting chain with engine running seems a good way to amputate something.
 
If the drive links are deformed, let me suggest that you NOT do that. Rather, use whatever large hammer you have with a flat face as an anvil, and peen the drive links flat with a small hammer. Your suggestion is abusive to b&c.

Adjusting chain with engine running seems a good way to amputate something.

I used to do as you suggest or file burred DL's down. Now I put the chain on with some slack and gradually rev the saw until the chain drops into the groove. So far, I still have all of my fingers and arms though a few neural connections seem to be mis-aligned.
 
Mmmmmm

Chain has brushed the metal catcher , so tommorow ill have to tear it down and check it all out. May have an out of round sprocket or the husky chain was out of spec straight from the packet. Not good either way glag I was ready to hit the kill switch being the saws first start and all.
Thanks for all the suggestions, your all most helpful
 
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