Changing pitch from .325 to 3/8 on my 026

[fossil]

I would like to use semi-chisel chain as I cut mostly in sandy areas and a lot of the wood has sand on it. There doesn't seem to be much available in the way of semi chisel in .325. I have to buy a new bar (16") and rim sprocket anyway so I thought I would change to 3/8.

Is there any reason that this doesn't make sense? I did a number of searches and couldn't find much info.

I really don't have any experience with the different chain pitches etc. with respect to cutting performance so any advice would be appreciated.

Thanks

Tim

 

[TK]

Sounds fine to me. :msp_thumbup:

 

[John_DeereGreen]

If you're currently running a 16 inch .325 you're likely going to notice a power loss, but nothing majorly significant. If you're currently running an 18 inch .325 going to a 16 .375 there won't be much difference at all.

 

[Stihlofadeal64]

You really should be able to run full chisel chain in a .325 pitch. I have an 18" bar on my 026 and it pulls the full comp chain just fine. In fact with a muffler mod it does very well. I don't understand why you'd want "semi-chisel" chain anyway - but it's your saw. The yellow label chains are very available here in the US and I feel shure you could find it on Ebay and have it shipped if nothing else.
Just my 2 pennies.

 

[jus2fat]

I have no idea of WHY you would want to change..??

You're only gonna slow your saw down...But it will work OK...
(I tried 3/8 in my 026 and went back to .325)...fwiw...

J2F

 

[fossil]

The reason I would like to change is that I understand that semi-chisel chain stays sharper longer in dirty wood than full chisel. Since most of what I cut will be on the ground in sandy soil I figured I would spend less time touching up the chain.

 

[jus2fat]

The reason I would like to change is that I understand that semi-chisel chain stays sharper longer in dirty wood than full chisel. Since most of what I cut will be on the ground in sandy soil I figured I would spend less time touching up the chain.

That would be correct thinking...

Why not just buy semi chisel (RMC...now RM) in .325 pitch..??

Should be easily available to you..

J2F

 

[roostersgt]

It'll work, but your saw will hate it. My bet is you'll switch back. My saws that are smaller than my 036 ran like crap when with 3/8. Too slow and too grabby in the wood. 325 and the 16" bar will work better. Just bring multiple chains and sharpen them while taking a break.

 

[sunfish]

I have never had any trouble gettin semi chisel in .325". It's just about all I run.

My dealer stocks it and Bailey's has it any way ya want it.

 

[xtremez]

I would like to use semi-chisel chain as I cut mostly in sandy areas and a lot of the wood has sand on it. There doesn't seem to be much available in the way of semi chisel in .325. I have to buy a new bar (16") and rim sprocket anyway so I thought I would change to 3/8.

Is there any reason that this doesn't make sense? I did a number of searches and couldn't find much info.

I really don't have any experience with the different chain pitches etc. with respect to cutting performance so any advice would be appreciated.

Thanks

Tim

I thought about doing the same with my 026. If the rest of your saws run 3/8 it'd make life easier. That way when you go to grab your spare loop your not scratching your head trying to figure out if its the 3/8 or .325

 

[Johny Utah]

I would like to use semi-chisel chain as I cut mostly in sandy areas and a lot of the wood has sand on it. There doesn't seem to be much available in the way of semi chisel in .325. I have to buy a new bar (16") and rim sprocket anyway so I thought I would change to 3/8.

Is there any reason that this doesn't make sense? I did a number of searches and couldn't find much info.

I really don't have any experience with the different chain pitches etc. with respect to cutting performance so any advice would be appreciated.

Thanks

Tim

If it were me I would stick to .325 and run a taller rim sprocket to increase the chain speed without the extra load placed on the saw by a thicker chip with .375 chain.

 

[Trailtrimmer]

I have no idea of WHY you would want to change..??

You're only gonna slow your saw down...But it will work OK...
(I tried 3/8 in my 026 and went back to .325)...fwiw...

J2F

I went to a .58 bar from a .50 bar on my husky 42 because it was in stock, totally hated it. I can't imagine taking my 026 from .325 to a .375 setup. Chisel or semi chisel, chances are the 3/8 setup will run slower.

 

[asdf4240]

I have no idea of WHY you would want to change..??

You're only gonna slow your saw down...But it will work OK...
(I tried 3/8 in my 026 and went back to .325)...fwiw...

J2F

I agree 100% with J2F. I too did the conversion and went back to .325. You will lose chain speed because the 3/8-7 rim sprocket is bigger in diameter than .325-7. The only reason to ever run a 3/8 on a smaller saw is because all your bigger saws run 3/8 and you are too lazy to change the wheel on your chainsaw grinder. But that's just my opinion. This is AS so if you need to cut faster (or better) get a bigger saw - seriously you won't regret it.

Good luck.
asdf4240

 

[SawTroll]

I would like to use semi-chisel chain as I cut mostly in sandy areas and a lot of the wood has sand on it. There doesn't seem to be much available in the way of semi chisel in .325. I have to buy a new bar (16") and rim sprocket anyway so I thought I would change to 3/8.

Is there any reason that this doesn't make sense? I did a number of searches and couldn't find much info.

I really don't have any experience with the different chain pitches etc. with respect to cutting performance so any advice would be appreciated.

Thanks

Tim

Why not just use RMC or Oregon BPX in .325?

3/8" doesn't make sense to me at all on an 026, unless you cut only softwood.

 

[fossil]

Thanks for the advice. I would be cutting mostly maple, ash, oak, basswood, aspen and some spruce.

I guess the overwhelming response is to stay with .325. I will do that. I will check out a Stihl bar locally and see what the price is. Any suggestions for a .325 .050 16" bar other than Stihl if that proves to be too expensive? I would likely only be cutting a total of 40 - 60 hours a year.

 

[jus2fat]

Stihl bars are reasonably priced and made in U.S.A...

They are top quality as most everyone that uses them knows..

Edit: Stihl is the only chainsaw company that actually makes their own bars..
And...Stihl surely wouldn't screw themselves by making / selling an inferior bar..!!

J2F

 

[fossil]

Just a heads up as to why I think the Stihl bar may cost too much for me. Here's a list of what Stihl saws sell for in Canada. The Canadian dollar is at a little better than par with the US dollar. I'm not sure what these sell for in the US but I suspect they're cheaper. You don't get much of a break from these MRSP prices.
I got my 026 in good condition for $200 and they usually ask $400+
I hope you don't gag.

MS 170 $249.95-
MS 171 $279.95
MS 180 MSRP $299.95
MS 181 MSRP $329.95
MS 211 MSRP $359.95
MS 230 MSRP $379.95
MS 250 $399.95
MS 250 C-BE MSRP $449.95
MS 290 MSRP $449.95
MS 271 DURO MSRP $499.95
MS 291 C MSRP $519.95
MS 391 MSRP $599.95
Chain Saws for Forestry
MS 261 MSRP $649.95
MS 261 Arctic™ MSRP $729.95
MS 362 - MSRP $779.95
MS 362 Wrap MSRP $809.95
MS 362 C-Q MSRP $849.95
MS 362 Arctic™ MSRP $859.95
MS 362 Arctic™/ Wrap MSRP $889.95
MS 441 MSRP $969.95
MS 460 MSRP $1,029.95
MS 441 C-M Arctic™ MSRP $1,049.95
MS 460 Wrap MSRP $1,059.95
MS 441 C-M Arctic™/ Wrap MSRP $1,079.95
MS 460 Arctic™/ Wrap MSRP $1,139.9
MS 660 MSRP $1,204.95
MS 660 Arctic™/ Wrap MSRP $1,284.95
MS 880 MSRP $1,629.95
MS 880 Wrap MSRP $1,679.95
MS 660 MSRP $1,699.95
MS 192 T MSRP $389.95
MS 192 C-MSRP $399.95
MS 201 T MSRP $709.95
MS 200 T MSRP $709.95
MS 201 MSRP $719.95
MS 200 MSRP $719.95
MS 460 $1,799.95

 

[SawTroll]

Stihl bars are reasonably priced and made in U.S.A...

They are top quality as most everyone that uses them knows..

Edit: Stihl is the only chainsaw company that actually makes their own bars..
And...Stihl surely wouldn't screw themselves by making / selling an inferior bar..!!

J2F

Actually, that is not 100% true - Husky makes a lot of bars themselves, but also rebadges bars made elsewhere (mostly Oregon, but some GB). Even Stihl has been known to rebadge Oregon bars, specially for the Canadian market (sold in the US as well, when the German bars were in short supply), but I am not sure they still do.....

 

[SawTroll]

I went to a .58 bar from a .50 bar on my husky 42 because it was in stock, totally hated it. I can't imagine taking my 026 from .325 to a .375 setup. Chisel or semi chisel, chances are the 3/8 setup will run slower.

It will surely be slower with 3/8", but .058 vs. .050 doesn't do any difference by itself, if the chain is the same basic model. Your observations with the 42 likely is about .325 narrow kerf vs. regular .325 - the 42 is a model that surely will benefit from the NK chain, and that is only availiable in .050.

 

[hamish]

Where's the Stihl bar factory? The Stihl chain factory??

If you have enough money/influence you can keep many secrets............who elses bars/chains are made at these factories?