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2broke2ride

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A couple of months ago I asked here about upgrading my speeco 22 ton splitter to get a faster cycle time. I ended up going with a 16gpm pump and an 8hp engine. It turned out very well and I am happy with it. However, I have been bitten by the bug to build a splitter the way I want it. The idea behind this is speed. So I am going to run a 22gpm pump. I am starting with this beast, I traded some work for it so no out of pocket cost. I have a friend who runs a hydraulic shop so lines will be no problem and he is going to rework the piston to have 3/4 inch ports and machine a slug to shorten the stroke to around 20inches. I only split 18inch wood so anything more is a waste. I have a couple engines to choose from. I have a 10hp tecumseh and an 11hp Briggs and Stratton. The only thing I'm really lacking is a tank. My research has suggested I want about 20 gallon capacity. Everything I'm finding premade is almost $300, I would rather spend that money on an auto cycle valve when the time comes. Anyone have ideas of something that could be easily repurposed?
Anyways, pics or it didnt happen right?
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I was eyeing my 22 gallon harbor freight compressor. I dont use it but I hate to cut up an operational compressor.

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If you were coming threw eastern Nebraska any time I would give you a tank that is 20 or 25 gallon never been used. It would need to have some ports welded in it as it was a unused gas tank for a piece of equipment.
 
First 22gpm needs aboit 19hp at 3000psi. If your running a 2000psi system your 11hp would be the smallest I'd reccomend. I currently have a 16gpm on a 9hp engine running 3000psi it's about at its limit. Your rule of thumb is 1hp per 1gpm @1500 psi. As these are 2 stage pumps you can half the equation. So the math comes out to just over 38hp for full flow @rated psi. Half that for a 2 stage pump give you about 19hp.
Also have you talked to any local weld shops about a tank? I have a 10gallon tank on my splitter and it cos $30.00 for my local shop to cut and bend the steel for me. All I had to do was weld it up and paint it, and install my fittings/ suction screen in the tank. Wouldnt hurt to call around and ask.
 
First 22gpm needs aboit 19hp at 3000psi. If your running a 2000psi system your 11hp would be the smallest I'd reccomend. I currently have a 16gpm on a 9hp engine running 3000psi it's about at its limit. Your rule of thumb is 1hp per 1gpm @1500 psi. As these are 2 stage pumps you can half the equation. So the math comes out to just over 38hp for full flow @rated psi. Half that for a 2 stage pump give you about 19hp.
Also have you talked to any local weld shops about a tank? I have a 10gallon tank on my splitter and it cos $30.00 for my local shop to cut and bend the steel for me. All I had to do was weld it up and paint it, and install my fittings/ suction screen in the tank. Wouldnt hurt to call around and ask.
Specs on the pump say recommended HP is 11, minimum is 10. I am gonna go with it and see how it does. Worst case, I have to use a larger engine. I run a small engine e repair shop so I have no shortage of engines on the shelf. I can always run a vertical shaft riding mower engine. Just the horizontal shaft engines are easier.
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Hmm that's very optimistic, would you mind if I asked the brand?
I'm honestly not sure the brand of the pump, chinese I'm sure, the vendor is ruggedmade. I have there 16gpm pump on my speeco and it does great with an 8hp motor. I was splitting some knotty crotches today and it just power through without even lugging the engine.
Here is a link
https://ruggedmade.com/categories/h.../22-gpm-gear-pump-25-gpm-valve-combo-kit.html
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Ok that makes sense. Let us know how the bigger pump works with the 11hp. I run a similar 16gpm on my splitter and it stated a min of 10 hp. I had a 9hp so that's what I use. It struggles a bit when it's under full pressure. Thanks for the response. Cheers.
 
Got the splitter stripped down, was able to get the piston off with much persuading, had to cut the end off the pin for the push block and force it out with a ball joint press. Piston is off to my buddy to be repacked and have 3/4 ports welded in. We decided to limit the stroke by welding a stop block on the beam instead of actually shortening the cylinder so I dont need to cut the mounts and reweld.
I need to straighten and reinforce the push block.
I also found a boiler surge tank to use for a hydraulic reservoir. Should be good for almost 20 gallons. I need to cut it open and clean it out, then weld in my inlet, outlet, and fill.
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Just a FYI, I have been running a 22 gpm pump with an eleven hp Predator engine for years and have never had an issue. I run a 4 way wedge at times with a 4" bore cylinder
That is what I want to hear, thank you. I have no problem sourcing a larger engine if I need to, I have a 19hp Briggs on the shelf but it is vertical shaft and a bit harder (for me anyway) to set up.

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I cut the tank open today and took the needle scaler and the wire wheel to it. Got all of the loose rust out of it. The rest is just surface. Need to weld it back up, and weld in my bungs and fill cap.
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Have you thought about coating the inside of the tank after welding it up? Help keep any missed rust from getting to the pump.
I had thought about it, not sure what to use that is budget friendly, I use redcoat on chainsaw gas tanks but it would be cost prohibitive on a tank this big.
I think I'm just gonna make damn sure I got it clean, run a suction side screen and a return side filter and keep my suction port an inch or so off the bottom.

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