Coupling Smashola!

[HD-tech-NH]

Broke the coupling on my splitter last weekend. Looking for any tricks to getting that coupling off! Doesn't look like there's enough room to get a puller in there. I don't want to hurt the pump trying to use a bar. I have heard people talk about these slipping. Is that possible?

 

[TonyK]

Heat and gentle taps. When you get it off put some anti-seize on the shaft of the next one.

 

[HD-tech-NH]

I take it you have already removed the set screws?

If I did pry I'd use two bars..one on each side of the shaft.

Did the bolts work loose from the engine?

nope just started them to keep the wholr thing from flopping around. Tomorrow I will put the heat to it and maybe use a pickle fork. Yes the set screws are out! Thanks fellas

 

[stint]

My favorite 'monkey piss' around Farm is "Kroil"

About 20 years ago, I needed an odd hub for a 69 Ford Dumper

Went to Junkie pal, and he found one axle deep in mud and rusted like you cannot believe

He got out, dug mud away, gave it good shot of Kroil, and a couple whacks with Ball Peen hammer

Came back smoked cigarette, got back at it with 3/4 inch wratchet and took em off slick as snot

Been using that stuff ever since

 

[Hddnis]

It looks like those coupler halves are done for anyway, and there seems to be enough room, so I would cut them with an angle grinder. A little care to not go too deep and into the shafts; you should be able to cut most the way through and split the rest. A dremel would work too, but slower. A hacksaw could be used, but be slowest of all, still would take a half hour at most.




Mr. HE

 

[Bucko]

TSC has those parts for about 30 bucks. Be careful with the heat. It will get your seals if your not careful. I would make a little heat shield and torch em off quickly then cool the shafts down before the seals get too hot.

 

[olyman]

Broke the coupling on my splitter last weekend. Looking for any tricks to getting that coupling off! Doesn't look like there's enough room to get a puller in there. I don't want to hurt the pump trying to use a bar. I have heard people talk about these slipping. Is that possible?

am i seeing things--are are the two coupler pieces that far out of line???

 

[Suz]

nope just started them to keep the wholr thing from flopping around. Tomorrow I will put the heat to it and maybe use a pickle fork. Yes the set screws are out! Thanks fellas

Be SURE there aren't a double set of set screws. I have double ones in the lovejoy that is on my tractor and I was worried the first time I tried to remove the coupling. Check the depth with a allen wrench to be sure.
Then if you use two large screwdrivers or small pry bars on each side you should be able to tap them right off.
Gee when you get the one part off the pump you still have to get the one off the engine. That one looks more rusted!
Good luck!

 

[Circle B MN]

Personally, I would sacrifice the coupler bracket. Sawzall it in half. Use a gear puller on both the engine and the pump. PB Blaster is your friend in times like these. Put it all back together with some anti-sieze for good measure. Still a cheap repair...



ETA...The coupler and bracet are in stock in most Northern Tool stores in case you had not noticed them before...

 

[kubotakid]

chemicals

The first thing I do with a frozen hub is remove set screws roll on top and fill hole with pb blaster or kroll, spraying around the ends would take days to reach the center of the hub, and the fact that it just sits there instead of running of is a good thing, heat is hard on seals, If your good with angle grinder, as sugested works good to, Eric

 

[HD-tech-NH]

If I can get the one half off of the motor I will bring the pump and all to the shop and use a press. Will keep this updated with pics! thanks for all the input so far! lots of good ideas

 

[treemandan]

I wouldn't spray nothing on it cause that stuff ignites when you put a torch on it and put a torch on it you should til the sleaves are red then use two pry bars behind. If it don't slide right off I would be surprised.

 

[John R]

Well, is it off yet?

 

[olyman]

If I can get the one half off of the motor I will bring the pump and all to the shop and use a press. Will keep this updated with pics! thanks for all the input so far! lots of good ideas

you never did answer?? are the two shafts, that far out of line???--cause if what im seeing is correct--you WILL tear up clovejoy couplings,,and halves--in real short order---those shafts are to be dead in alignment with each other--

 

[lone wolf]

you never did answer?? are the two shafts, that far out of line???--cause if what im seeing is correct--you WILL tear up clovejoy couplings,,and halves--in real short order---those shafts are to be dead in alignment with each other--

That would explain why it broke.

 

[Streblerm]

you never did answer?? are the two shafts, that far out of line???--cause if what im seeing is correct--you WILL tear up clovejoy couplings,,and halves--in real short order---those shafts are to be dead in alignment with each other--

The pump bracket is loose at the engine giving the appearance that everything is out of line. The engine side of the coupler is straight but the pump side is askew due to the bracket being loose.

 

[HD-tech-NH]

you never did answer?? are the two shafts, that far out of line???--cause if what im seeing is correct--you WILL tear up clovejoy couplings,,and halves--in real short order---those shafts are to be dead in alignment with each other--

the whole assembly has been loosened for removal

 

[CWME]

PB blaster and an air hammer w/ chisel. If need be grind an edge on the old flange for the chisel to grab onto. The vibration of the air hammer should work it loose in short order.

 

[pipehead]

Got a friend with an enerpac kit?

 

[HD-tech-NH]

planning on cutting the engine side in the morning. Hopefully my compressor will keep upwith the die grinder! I will post some pics! let the sparks fly!