Dolmar 5100s, ms260, or husky 353?

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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2000ssm;
I know the 346 is faster you 'tard..



Sure - very good point!


:cheers:

Speed is fun and I got plenty of it but there is a trade off. I'll take a better built saw over a faster one in this case. As far as the 260 vs. 346, the 346 is faster but that is all it has on the Stihl IMO and even after that I'll take the Stihl.:cheers:
 
True BS husky head talk here. I'd be willing to be if that 353 did have any problems, you would never mention it.:dizzy:

I changed the chain break handle after running over the saw with a front wheel of my Valmet 6400 tractor. I consider that a non-issue and the fact that nothing else happened as the best proof for reliability. Nothing else, no single screw coming loose, nothing. You know I'm not a Husky head. I have a MS170 as door stopper!
 
I changed the chain break handle after running over the saw with a front wheel of my Valmet 6400 tractor. I consider that a non-issue and the fact that nothing else happened as the best proof for reliability. Nothing else, no single screw coming loose, nothing. You know I'm not a Husky head. I have a MS170 as door stopper!

A 170 as a door stopper, LOL. Let me guess, you expect it to pull a 32" b&c?:monkey: I take your posts with a grain of salt.:dizzy:
 
so your buying your first saw, and your first saw is gonna start your firewood business? What saws have you ran before?
 
A 170 as a door stopper, LOL. Let me guess, you expect it to pull a 32" b&c?:monkey: I take your posts with a grain of salt.:dizzy:

:confused: You should know that I am a big fan of small bars. I'm the opposite of Gary you could say.
 
As I said in your other thread, if you are planning on buying this wood by the truck load, I assume semi, you will NEED a larger saw!!
MS361, Dolmar 6401, Husky 359/357xp should be the minimum size for this operation.
You CAN do it with a smaller saw, but you are working harder and working the saw harder than needed. Neither is going to like this for long!
From what I have gathered the best bets would be a used MS440/044 or a Husky 372xp with the Dolmar 7900 right in the mix of it.
Next I would look for a 460/046, but they get heavy afer a while bucking up that much wood.
Now if you get a proccessor as I sugested, and all you will be doing is cleaning up and trimming off, get a 50cc saw.

I started with a 50cc Husky 350, it works fine for me, but I sure wish I had gone the 60cc route for my wood size, 8-26". I would be a lot more handy. I love my 046, but it's overkill for most of what I cut, but it sure is fast!! The 350 is limber and light, I can run it all day, but another 2-4"s of bar would be nice most times!
 
As I said in your other thread, if you are planning on buying this wood by the truck load, I assume semi, you will NEED a larger saw!!
MS361, Dolmar 6401, Husky 359/357xp should be the minimum size for this operation.
You CAN do it with a smaller saw, but you are working harder and working the saw harder than needed. Neither is going to like this for long!
From what I have gathered the best bets would be a used MS440/044 or a Husky 372xp with the Dolmar 7900 right in the mix of it.
Next I would look for a 460/046, but they get heavy afer a while bucking up that much wood.
Now if you get a proccessor as I sugested, and all you will be doing is cleaning up and trimming off, get a 50cc saw.

I started with a 50cc Husky 350, it works fine for me, but I sure wish I had gone the 60cc route for my wood size, 8-26". I would be a lot more handy. I love my 046, but it's overkill for most of what I cut, but it sure is fast!! The 350 is limber and light, I can run it all day, but another 2-4"s of bar would be nice most times!

:jawdrop::jawdrop:
 
I have a 5100 that I use for limbing, but I have used it for larger stuff. It cuts really well, plenty of power (18" bar 3/8 chain). A bigger saw will give you more flexibility if you need to cut something bigger. I have a couple 7900's that I can use as limbing saws( they are light with a 20" bar), or with a bigger bar slice up some bigger wood. Same class as stihl 441, 460 husky 372, all good saws. Hey computeruser nice pics!
 
Speed is fun and I got plenty of it but there is a trade off. I'll take a better built saw over a faster one in this case. As far as the 260 vs. 346, the 346 is faster but that is all it has on the Stihl IMO and even after that I'll take the Stihl.:cheers:

The 346xp sure is a much better built saw than the MS260 - you have to look at something else than your Stihl navel - air filtration, choke system and AV are part of the build quality - there have been lots of problems with the choke and air filter of the 026/260 + the carbs - and the AV plainly sucks.....:greenchainsaw:
 
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The 346xp sure is a much better built saw than the MS260 - you have to look at something else than your Stihl navel - air filtration, choke system and AV are part of the build quality - there have been lots of problems with the choke and air filter of the 026/260 + the carbs - and the AV plainly sucks.....:greenchainsaw:

I canned my 260 pro because of poor running issues. That thing was a biatch to start. Cold or warm. Absolutely no probs with my 346. It's just solid yet so smooth.
 
The 346xp sure is a much better built saw than the MS260 - you have to look at something else than your Stihl navel - air filtration, choke system and AV are part of the build quality - there have been lots of problems with the choke and air filter of the 026/260 + the carbs - and the AV plainly sucks.....:greenchainsaw:

I've looked and felt, didn't see any reason the 346 was better, sorry Troll your cheerleading doesn't work for me.:D
 
I canned my 260 pro because of poor running issues. That thing was a biatch to start. Cold or warm. Absolutely no probs with my 346. It's just solid yet so smooth.

Don't blame the inability of your dealer or YOURSELF on not knowing how to adjust a carb or diagnose a saw properly. I'll bet that you along with "peter the idiot" would not even admit if your 346 had a problem. You husky heads are a joke....:dizzy:
 
Don't blame the inability of your dealer or YOURSELF on not knowing how to adjust a carb or diagnose a saw properly. I'll bet that you along with "peter the idiot" would not even admit if your 346 had a problem. You husky heads are a joke....:dizzy:

It's a fact that at least some 026/260 have a tuning problem. The idle simply cannot be tuned where it will both idle properly and have good throttle response. I witnessed this on at least three saws, two of which were stock. Two of them had multiple carbs tried on them, all with the same results.

The AV doesn't bother me at all. The air filtration is only a limit to me if I want to race. In that case, I just remove it. It works fine for removing particles. It may clog up quicker, but I clean my filters after each use, so it's a non-issue.
 
It's a fact that at least some 026/260 have a tuning problem. The idle simply cannot be tuned where it will both idle properly and have good throttle response. I witnessed this on at least three saws, two of which were stock. Two of them had multiple carbs tried on them, all with the same results.

The AV doesn't bother me at all. The air filtration is only a limit to me if I want to race. In that case, I just remove it. It works fine for removing particles. It may clog up quicker, but I clean my filters after each use, so it's a non-issue.

I've read you and Erick's posts on those problems but after tuning at least 15 026/260s for a large local tree company, I have not ever seen or heard of this problem around here, local dealers either. I have replaced bad carbs though.:d
 

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