Falling pics 11/25/09

[treeslayer2003]

let the old timers laugh, they werent cutting hardwood veneer in the midwest. and the ones that were cut low stumps. its where the moneys at in hardwood.

edit: bitzer cuts about the same height stumps i would. and Im not coordinated enough for long bars. 32" is good enough.

32 is a long bar today. thats what i run, only very seldom would it be nice to have more.

i have cut 5' timber but not lately........my father saw more of that than i ever will.

 

[RandyMac]

LoL!! Metals406 is an oldtimer?

 

[IcePick]

View attachment 365774 View attachment 365775 I was my last limb needed center of tree to rig down branch ? So how was I supposed to cut down tree first , then you cut the limbs off, each limb was a tree I filled this truck 3 times full of wood. Thats how big this tree was in between wires and over 2 houses.
This is truck I filled
View attachment 365776

wow, that's a monster silver maple! Those can be fun to climb and remove, sometimes. Lots of ups and downs. Good work.

 

[IcePick]

By the way, I see you're new here, the climbers forum is the first link at the top of the page.

 

[IcePick]

Gotta love them arborists... Anyway... Colton not bad. That a 24" bar you runnin then? Once you get used to a longer bar it opens up a whole new world. Efficiency for one. No wasted movements. Fluidity and flow at the stump and on the buck. How you get paid makes a big difference to how you cut as well. If getting paid volume you definitely learn how to stream line all of your cutting techniques (or at least should). Low stump height is all well and good when its reasonable. When your spending 5 minutes on the stump plus another 2 or 3 in trimming flare I've already laid out and bucked another one. Not trying to be a ****, I just think most hardwood guys have the wrong idea as a whole. Trees don't grow in exact lengths.

Yeah you're right Bob, I am pretty loveable. I hate the label arborist. I consider myself a tree worker. I take em down, any way I can. Arborists are more the nip plucking crab apple and magnolia types. BTW, my hand has swollen even more, looks like a ****ing catchers mitt.

 

[slowp]

 

[1270d]

slowp, on thinnings like that do you run a ribbon line for the cable corridors so the fallers can make an appropriate lay? Or is it left up to the logger?

 

[slowp]

I didn't. The loggers flag in their corridors/skid trails before falling. I'd walk them and mark the extra trees needed to cut for the corridors. Then the rigging crew would show up after falling, decide the lift trees would not do, disparage the faller who chose the trees, saying, "He worked in the rigging. He should know better." and I'd make another trip to the ends of the corridors with paint.

 

[Metals406]

let the old timers laugh, they werent cutting hardwood veneer in the midwest. and the ones that were cut low stumps. its where the moneys at in hardwood.

edit: bitzer cuts about the same height stumps i would. and Im not coordinated enough for long bars. 32" is good enough.

Fer peelers sure, don't make a lot of sense on saw logs.

Why did they ( the old timers) cut high stumps with ax and whip? Why are the guys in CA, BC, & AK still doing it today?

That's all I was say'n.

 

[Metals406]

LoL!! Metals406 is an oldtimer?

Said no one ever.

 

[treeslayer2003]

ok, stump hieght............depends on what your cutting, what it looks like, and if a machine has to run thru the area. not quite as simple as east vs west here.
if its a money tree and its solid down low without to much flair, i'll cut it low with a conventional or open face. also if its a clear cut and equipment will be running thru the area repeatedly..........like the pine i posted earlyer. if the skidder will never go thru there or if its questionable down low or a twin, i'll cut a humbolt about waist high like this. just depends. that said, a humbolt or block does seem to give maximum steerage.

 

[Metals406]

ok, stump hieght............depends on what your cutting, what it looks like, and if a machine has to run thru the area. not quite as simple as east vs west here.
if its a money tree and its solid down low without to much flair, i'll cut it low with a conventional or open face. also if its a clear cut and equipment will be running thru the area repeatedly..........like the pine i posted earlyer. if the skidder will never go thru there or if its questionable down low or a twin, i'll cut a humbolt about waist high like this.View attachment 365905 just depends. that said, a humbolt or block does seem to give maximum steerage.

Purdy much what I was saying. I wasn't trying to "one size fits all", I was saying that a lot of guys just by default cut low, and some guys just by default cut high. On helo ground, there's no reason to cut low stumps. All the stuff flies out vertical -- nothing has to get dragged up the hill.

On tractor ground, it makes a lot more sense to cut low stumps. Some homeowners on private land, they want everything cut real low. The center of a corridor also, if you're leaving high stumps the rigging crew will want to beat you with an ax handle.

So back to my original post -- I was referring to the guys that cut low in situations where the more comfortable higher stump could be cut, specially in saw logs, where the flares going to get bucked off anyway.

 

[RandyMac]

hardwood guys LoL!!
example of a way too low stump, could have saved lots of time going above the swell.

 

[treeslayer2003]

Purdy much what I was saying. I wasn't trying to "one size fits all", I was saying that a lot of guys just by default cut low, and some guys just by default cut high. On helo ground, there's no reason to cut low stumps. All the stuff flies out vertical -- nothing has to get dragged up the hill.

On tractor ground, it makes a lot more sense to cut low stumps. Some homeowners on private land, they want everything cut real low. The center of a corridor also, if you're leaving high stumps the rigging crew will want to beat you with an ax handle.

So back to my original post -- I was referring to the guys that cut low in situations where the more comfortable higher stump could be cut, specially in saw logs, where the flares going to get bucked off anyway.

note only that Nate............now i will be unpopular lol...........alot of times that low stump on hardwood may bight ya in the azz.........thats where its more likely to have a blemish or to much sap........and they can't peel that big flair. so if it won't clean up real good by shaving, the exporter will just shorten it any way........now you get paid for a 10 instead of a 12.

 

[treeslayer2003]

hardwood guys LoL!!
example of a way too low stump, could have saved lots of time going above the swell.

how'd ya like to shave the swell off that one? lol

 

[HuskStihl]

Mike, with u'r good looks I doubt you'd ever be unpopular. Speaking of low stumps, back-barring, and a nasally sounding 660, how's our friend Clinton?

 

[bitzer]

Not to mention all the ******** back barring and dull chains involved in real low stmps. Don't get me wrong I love the back bar, just not around all that flair. All of the ground I cut on was pastured at some point in the last hundred years, so lots of ground compaction and exposed roots. The wood is always harder and gnarlier low too.

 

[bitzer]

Mike, with u'r good looks I doubt you'd ever be unpopular. Speaking of low stumps, back-barring, and a nasally sounding 660, how's our friend Clinton?

He sent me a text a while back, sayin he was in north Cali looking for a falling job. Haven't heard since.

 

[HuskStihl]

Thanks for the update. Hope he's doing ok. Got a demon or two following him around, that's for sure

 

[mdavlee]

He posted a video the other day on SH. He's back in Arkansas working.