Help me choose an atv

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This is a Polaris 330 magnun 4x4. Very small as quads go. I bought it used and do not abuse it. Alone it can do little except get saws into the woods. With the right attachments you can do a lot with minimum impact. That's the beauty. It is a wonderful property management tool. If you want a quad look for something with hi-low gearing, 4x4, and the right combination of attachments. Dragging logs for me was not an option in the woods, and doing so only loads them with dirt making cutting rounds a pain. I have less in this 'system' then the price of a new quad. It is slow, but it works.
 
This is a Polaris 330 magnun 4x4. Very small as quads go. I bought it used and do not abuse it. Alone it can do little except get saws into the woods. With the right attachments you can do a lot with minimum impact. That's the beauty. It is a wonderful property management tool. If you want a quad look for something with hi-low gearing, 4x4, and the right combination of attachments. Dragging logs for me was not an option in the woods, and doing so only loads them with dirt making cutting rounds a pain. I have less in this 'system' then the price of a new quad. It is slow, but it works.

Now, that's more like it with a log arch and using a small buggy of any kind to get into and out of the woods where there isn't a real improved trail or road. What do those things cost? And how about up and down hills with a big log? How steep of terrain can you really handle?
 
Strictly An Opinion based on inexhaustive testing of a few options. I know there are folks who seem to have first hand experience on dozens of options. I am not one of those folks.

Good luck. FWIW, I spent most of a year looking for a strong used 4x4 SCUT for my cutting, hauling, and dragging. I spent a lot of time driving around looking at JD 65x/75x and even more Kubotas. I learned two things:
  1. People don't like to part with their good tractors
  2. Other people want top dollar for the ones they beat to death.
I already own a smaller JD, an x728, and it was working for me during the winter when the mower deck was off and the snow was not too deep. But I wouldn't take it in the woods once I had the mower mounted which eliminated use from April to November. I was staying in the SCUT range because I had a budget, and I wanted to keep my cutting foot print as light as possible. I did not want to have to cut trees to get my tractor to my next standing dead Red Oak, I didn't want to make ruts in the woods, and I didn't want roads that wouldn't start growing back the following year.

I almost drove past an older looking ATV, turned around and test road a 2002 Bombardier 650 Quest. I bought it cheap, it had 47 miles on it, and was 10 years old. It is a full time 4wd with CVT power distribution. The specs suggest the 650 Rotax makes 47 hp, I can't confirm it ever did. The speedo suggests it might see 70, I can't confirm it ever would do more than about 35 mph, and I rarely run even 20mph. I find it has plenty of engine for all my pulls, it lacks traction at the heavy end. It chews through snow, over rocks and logs, around any other obstacles, and meets my requirements.

I am constantly amazed at how easy this now 12 year old carbureted engine starts in the cold. Pull the choke on a nice brisk 7° F morning after it hasn't been run in a week, tap the starter and it fires right up. Let it warm a minute or so and it is ready to go. One caveat, might just be me, but I cannot back a cart or trailer as precisely with this thing as I can with the tractor. Might be the handle bars vs steering wheel, might be power assist on my tractor, might be foot control of speed and single hand steering, might be just me. I think the hydraulic snow plow on the tractor is easier to feather, change angle, raise and lower, so I plow with the tractor exclusively.

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But, here is the clincher (don't show this to my wife). When the work is finished, I put the tractor away, but I take the ATV for an extended cool down run because it is just plain fun.
 
Every homeowner I talk to about buying a tractor has a SCUT on their mind. They want crazy prices for what they are new and hold their prices used. I would struggle to find a used one under 10000 w loader used. But here is the crazy thing, that are not more maneuverable for the most part than a 50hp utility. Was rehabilitating a drive down at my friends house and his step daughter brought over a less than 5 year old 25hp jd scut with hydrostatic drive. Since part of the drive required digging out the dirt in a car port and spreading gravel back in its place we thought surely the little tractor would work well in that tight area. Thing is that their steer tires are set close enough to the frame it severely limits the angle which negates the small size. My JD 2020 can nearly pivot on one tire with the appropriate brake applied and the turning radius was not that much more as most of the scut don't have turning brakes. We quickly gave up on the small jd for its lack of power. They also feel very lumbering. Every oneI have driven feels like what I imagine one of those Chinese guys feels like hauling 50 chicken cages on the back. Uncle had a 22 hp ingersoll and it felt the same way. He was happy the day he traded it for a real mower and a 55hp tractor with loader.

They are terrible to mow with as well. I have mowed my friends daughters place Twice when she was on vacation. Once with the jd scut w 72" deck. Took 5 hours as they have over a hundred planted trees. Next time took my 48" exmark walk behind and did it in 2.

Here's the real kicker. One with patience and careful looking can pick up an older farm tractor in good shape cheaper that a scut. I purchased my cherry 2020 w/loader, bushhog, splitter, and a crappy back blade for 7500.

If you looking just to pull logs then you are even more in luck. Older farm tractors that don't work well with loaders because they lack hydraulic capacity are very cheap in comparison. Weight, tire, drive system matter more for pulling. My 53' allis CA is 21 hp and will out work in pulling applications than any 25-30 hp scut until you get in deep mud and then the 4x4 will help. The newer tractors are significantly lighter and smaller per hp and that is not a good thing except for certain applications. Even though my CA is longer it will turn sharper. Unlike any scut has power shift wheels and I can change the track width in 20 min or so. Hitch will lift higher. Pull more weight. And compared to any scut will flat out plow. Scut are the worst tractors I have ever seen to plow. Cost 1500 and had been repainted and had new rear tires. I did have to put front tires and a water pump on it. Both my tractors had very few hours on them.
 
From my experience hydro drive vehicles are best for mowing duty, the kubota rtv is a neat rig don't get me wrong but I would take a Kawasaki mule for a side by side ATV work rig,the kubota rtv are very heavy they actually outweigh my kubota l2850, cost more and don't have a loader option that's functional. A large two wheel drive tractor and a set of chains can be had pretty cheap add a winch and you got a nice woods machine, a loader can actually be a disadvantage in the woods.
 
For pulling power in a small nimble machine my little Nortrac chinese dozer with rear 3pt hitch is pretty handy. Holy cow is it a rough ride however with being so short and tracked.
 
I have always wanted a little dozer, there are a good number of them set up with winches kicking around up here in Maine. Pound for pound, dollar for dollar, they can really pull some wood, unfortunately the majority of the ones i can afford need serious undercarriage work.
 
From my experience hydro drive vehicles are best for mowing duty, the kubota rtv is a neat rig don't get me wrong but I would take a Kawasaki mule for a side by side ATV work rig,the kubota rtv are very heavy they actually outweigh my kubota l2850, cost more and don't have a loader option that's functional. A large two wheel drive tractor and a set of chains can be had pretty cheap add a winch and you got a nice woods machine, a loader can actually be a disadvantage in the woods.

I have a mule here to use, a 4010??? fergit... but bet I don't have even 15 hours on it yet. I'm trying to fit it into the equipment rotation. The bed is just too small for saws and wood, and I don't have a fit to size trailer for it, just a dinky one. The tractor tote box will hold more, and easier to load big rounds, just roll them right in with the box on the ground. The only other trailers I have to use are large double axle trailers.

Next summer when it dries up I might try to snake it deep into the woods and pull rounds out to the tractor and real trailer, transfer them, then tote a real load home. Got lebenty dozen hundred big dead oaks and poplars and so on all through the woods. Maybe a log arch would work with them.
 
I did not mean that the mule is a great fire wood rig I just thought that I would mention a mule as an alternative for a kubota rtv, I really like the clutch and belt setup vs hydro for something like a side by side. Is your mule a diesel?
 
I did not mean that the mule is a great fire wood rig I just thought that I would mention a mule as an alternative for a kubota rtv, I really like the clutch and belt setup vs hydro for something like a side by side. Is your mule a diesel?

Yes, it is a diesel. My boss bought it on a whim, just..it showed up, here's the keys. I never asked for it or anything, never even thought about one to tell the truth. I know they are expensive. It does drive nice, automatic, high low range 2 or 4wd. I haven't taken it in deep mud yet, I'm chicken. but, deep mud is deep mud, you'd nmneed a heckuva monstah truck to go through mud that a tractor can go through...

Has a front winch. I built a bed liner box for the back so far. I think I am going to pull the back seat entirely, (folded up now) make another box there for saws and tools instead of the bed. That should make it more practical.

The bed is called a dump bed, but it is manual and I tried it with a load of rocks..ehh..no, not happening. Needs a pump lever or something to make it a real dump unless you are hauling like leaves. doesn't have to be PTO or built in hydraulic or anything, just something you can crank it up to dump.

I think now for hunting, or long weekend get way back in camping, etc, nice vehicle. Around the farm, I am just having a hard time coming up with a day to day use for it. I feed round bales with a fork on the back of the tractor, don't need to tote small square bales. Mineral goes out in bags I heap up on the front tractor weights. Bushog or rotary mower, tedder, rake. All tractor. And etc. All my work, I mostly need and use a real tractor. Finish mowing is a couple of diesel kubota mowers.

Like I said above, I think this Mule will work well for getting into the woods where the tractor can't go easy and getting rounds out, or chunks of logs, etc. this is wood I have mostly been passing up. I will wait until drier weather first though. And for some fencing chores it would be OK.

Oh, the story my boss got, FWIW. not from me, just what I heard, the dealer he got it from has rangers and mules, boss asked, not which is fastest, etc, but which one breaks down the least, dealer sold him the Mule.
 
Does anyone have a resource for pricing used atvs? There are a few on the local lists just comparing and then I'd like to figure at decent price for machine when I decide.
 
Every homeowner I talk to about buying a tractor has a SCUT on their mind.

Both my tractors had very few hours on them.
Sweet deals on great used tractors is always nice. The SCUT is the perfect option for small acreage owners, otherwise there wouldn't be such a great demand for them. I too am intimately familiar with the '53 AC CA, but no way would I want to use one for my chores.

On topic, I would strongly urge skipping the belt drive atv for moving heavy loads. Most are meant to tow a max 500 pound rolling trailer, not skidding anything of substantial weight. If you must have a "work" atv, go for the hydro type drive of the Honda.
 
Sweet deals on great used tractors is always nice. The SCUT is the perfect option for small acreage owners, otherwise there wouldn't be such a great demand for them. I too am intimately familiar with the '53 AC CA, but no way would I want to use one for my chores.

On topic, I would strongly urge skipping the belt drive atv for moving heavy loads. Most are meant to tow a max 500 pound rolling trailer, not skidding anything of substantial weight. If you must have a "work" atv, go for the hydro type drive of the Honda.

I disagree that ALL belt drives are bad for pulling heavy loads... The Yamaha's will pull anything a hydro will, WITHOUT slipping, squeeling or having ANY other problem!

The reason compacts are selling so well is, yuppies are buying them to use on their driveways ect... Put a compact on a REAL farm to do real farm work and it will be trashed in no time! I'm not saying they are junk, i'm just saying they are very light duty compared to a REAL farm tractor.....i now own both and have had several others in the past...

As for the Mule VS the Kubota S&S, The Kubota 900 S&S is better than the 1100 for work and to tell the truth, i like the 500 even better. My brother has a Mule and a 900, i have a 500...so i've used all three. My brother hauls/sells sand with his, and there's NO WAY the Mule tranny is better than the Kubota tranny for work! Not even close... I like my 500 because it's lighter/narrower/quieter...

I stand by my other post, a farm tractor is the best buy for work!

SR
 
On topic, I would strongly urge skipping the belt drive atv for moving heavy loads. Most are meant to tow a max 500 pound rolling trailer, not skidding anything of substantial weight. If you must have a "work" atv, go for the hydro type drive of the Honda.
Most of the Polaris Sportman models have a 1,500 lbs tow rating. These are all belt drive.

A quick web search shows the towing capacity of a 2014 Yamaha Grizzly (also belt drive) is 1,322 lbs.

One of my machines is a 13 year old Polaris 250, 4x4, hi/lo tranny with belt drive that I routinely use to pull our 4x6 trailer stacked high with split firewood. That machine being used the way I just described is still on the original belt. The key to belt life is knowing when to be in low range.
 
i've used a john deere 750 subcompact with a snow blade it worked well. I've also used several different John Deere sumbcompacts on jobsites alot. We use them for seeding,fertilizer,pulling a drag etc. I've also used one to pull a box scraper while grading stone parking lots. They are good machines most are actually japanese.They would be handy lil devils in the woods.A friend of mine bought a chinese version that he uses in his tree removal business. A fourwheeler tho can be used for fun when no work needs to be done.
 
On topic, I would strongly urge skipping the belt drive atv for moving heavy loads. Most are meant to tow a max 500 pound rolling trailer, not skidding anything of substantial weight. If you must have a "work" atv, go for the hydro type drive of the Honda.

Haha right, right. That's like saying my MS460 is "meant" to cut a "max" tree diameter of 5". The reason most, if not ALL, ATVs don't work well skidding heavy stuff is due to traction. Their lack of traction is due to their high HP and low weight.
 

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