Help me whip my buddies saw!!!
- Thread starter Claybe
- Start date
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i will say this it is not the saws fault that it is flawed it is the builders fault and we all have our prefrence to what kind of chain saw we use my sleff i like husky as for other ppl they might like a different kind of saw
hey i dont think the saw i the problem you have a gd saw like i have said before i think its your rakers i think they are to high you have to match your rakers to your teeth on your chain and you will get a much better cut every time now if you chose to do this file your rakers down all the way and you will be trough that log in seconds but be careful for kick backs this is what i was taught when i frist started out as pro operator and this my opinion others have different ones no one eles has realy put any input into your questsion i hope this helps you some
I want a 372. I have all stihl's and a homi.
Brand bias is dumb. It's hard to talk #### about a brand when you don't have one.
I hate Polaris cause I have had them and all they do is break.
I have a Ford it does wear out and have more problem's then others i;'m shure but i love it. I would take another brand truck because they will all get the job done, i just like ford i grew up on them.
stihlboy
Guess who's back
DUDE! slow down, use spell check, and try to use punctuation please
woodguy105
ArboristSite Guru
After you tune up your saw we'll need a video of you beating your buddies!
:greenchainsaw:
noahand planeisa woodwurking toolthat planesdown would they r a painbut you shoold never usethem on chain because both will get dulld and that is no fun for anyone the reason i brought it up is beecause when you use a handplane you kwiklly find that suttle adjustmint in the height of the kutting blade makes the wurk easier and smoother and produces a smuther finish it is generally better to have less hite than more hite and you can feel the difference in how hard t is to work the wood so youd get a natural feel for that sort of thing and have a better understanding of why filing your rakers down to nothing is a pretty stoopid and counterproductive thing to do just my opion though who knews what othurs mitesay
I think that the problem is that [ hawke ] may have a different first language, he may be from Quebec. I will ask him this question.
PIONEERGUY600
Flintknapper
ArboristSite Operative
Are these newer looking saws....or old ones?
The reason I ask is: If you are cutting against an old Poulan S25 series saw....you will be hard pressed to keep up.
Saw Dr.
Junk Collector
ROFL!! It won't let me rep you. I laughed so hard there were tears in my eyes.
I got him for you...right afterI wiped the Sprite off of the keyboard and monitor. Hilarious.
Please.
too_quick_s197
ArboristSite Lurker
WOW 133 post just to tell this guy his saw sucks, and then to find out another guy cant speak english. He may speak it but he sure as heck cant type it.
J.W Younger
ass kissing impaired
I ani't no pro operator but that sounds like a good way to get hurt
low rakers suck and no rakers would make it worse I'm sure
stihlboy
Guess who's back
eliminating the rakers will mess up crank bearings
I know your all sick of this but I read the whole thing and I'v got to say something. no rakers aint as fast as a properly sharpend chain. the rake is what carrys the wood shaving out of the cut. whithout them the chain gets filled with shavings fairley quickly and slowes way down in any tree over 3/4 the width of the b/c length
Shagbark
ArboristSite Guru
Soooh you know from experience on this one. Good to know. I thought .070 lower than the cutter was far enough when I stopped. I guess I was right.:jawdrop:
not sure if your being sarcastic? but the rakers arent there just for show or kick back control.b they are really what controls your cut depth per tooth and they do carry the trash out of the cut. try it aqnd see.file them dudes down down to nothing. the tooth is only "self cleaning" right on the end, top half.
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