Homelite Chainsaws

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Ok. Carb is a C1Q H17A3XP. So I will look tonight on Zama's website. I need to get my calipers out and check the OD and ID on the oil seal so I can find a replacement.

My saw is a UT-10697-B. It has a Zama carb and no impulse barb on the crankcase. I think the carb is a H17A3XP. Is that the right carb number?
 
Carb kit is
Rebuild Kit RB-54
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Gasket & Diaphragm Kit
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GND-27

I think the crank seals are for a 1/2" shaft and 3/4" bore. Same both sides.

An SKF 4913 seal works there.
 
I actually purchased a blister pack of fuel line at the autoparts store a few years ago, that I believe was labeled as Tygon on the line but not on the package. I will need more than that though.

Thanks for all the help!!!
 
That depends on how they were stored. I've seen some that were dry, hard and rotted, others just fine. Newer made seals will be more pliable, just be sure they will work in engines. Just because a AF seal has the proper ID and OD dimensions it may not be meant for engines. You generally want ones with the internal spring.

I get nitrile seals with the garter spring from a local bearing shop. Generally around 4 bucks each in the chainsaw sizes. Double lip is unimportant regardless of what you hear on this site. Single lip was the standard way back when and the saws lasted.

I use this link to search seals by size and then design. http://www2.chicago-rawhide.com/popup_parts_lookup_457010.htm

Chris B.
 
Who is the chainsawlady?
Member here, Joyce, Homelite dealer for 50 years, selling NOS parts and used stuff left over from the shop she and her husband ran. Great to deal with, good prices, quick and reliable. Has a front page listing on House of Homelite. Knows everything Homelite it seems.
 
I stopped by to see Joyce a couple of weeks ago to pick up some remaining McCulloch recoils springs she found. She also sent me home with two boxes full of Power Equipment Trade magazines in Homelite boxes.

If anyone is coming to the Iowa GTG in April I would be happy to hand the boxes off to someone that would appreciate them. If I can find the photos I'll post them for you to enjoy.

Mark
 
Are the oil line and fuel line supposed to have different OD and ID? There was a ~0.2 difference between both the OD and ID. I was expecting them to be the same line.

Also, I found scoring on the piston and cylinder. I had noticed marks but felt the piston today. Definitely scored. Funny though, it starts just below the ring and stops before the piston skirt. I see a mark in the cylinder too but didn't have time to check for transfer.
 
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