You have the lines crossed in the first pic. The fitting with a elbow is the oil inlet, goes to bottom of tank, the straight fitting is the pulse, goes to duckbill at top of tank. I've made this same mistake myself.
Homelite Chainsaws
- Thread starter briantutt
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cobey
Addicted to ArboristSite
I straighten them out, it still sucks oil
sawnami
Addicted to ArboristSite
Need a little help with chain ID. A friend gave me a Homelite Super 77 with a 42 inch bar, and a partial roll of Oregon number 10 chain. Some low life stole the saw. So a couple weeks ago I sold the S10 chain. The person that bought the chain said it's 404 not S10. I have the flap off the roll the chain came on and the drive links are stamped with a 10. I never thought the check the chain since it was stamped 10 and came off the original roll. If I'm wrong I'll take the chain back and return his purchase price plus shipping both ways. I'll probably take it back and eat the shipping anyway. Here's a couple pics of the chain. Thanks, Joe.
Honest John
ArboristSite Operative
Somebody mind giving me a short walk-through on how to remove the piston and cylinder on this ? It's a 944 xl. I've got a donor saw (xl925) that's got a good p&c that I can put in here. This use to be one of my favorite saws to run and it's been sitting in my shop for a couple of years now waiting for me to get to it. Any help is appreciated. John
John,
If I recall correctly, you unscrew the carb & the "intake manifold"/reed valve pieces, then 4 bolts hold the handle assembly to the rest of the case. There will be one or two screws on the bottom, thin part of the handle , too. Unscrew these and start wiggling and it'll come apart.
Once the handle is off there are 4 nuts that hold the jug on. When I replaced the piston in my 925, I tore the cylinder gasket during removal, so I'd advise having a new one already on hand.
Hope that helps!
--JC
If I recall correctly, you unscrew the carb & the "intake manifold"/reed valve pieces, then 4 bolts hold the handle assembly to the rest of the case. There will be one or two screws on the bottom, thin part of the handle , too. Unscrew these and start wiggling and it'll come apart.
Once the handle is off there are 4 nuts that hold the jug on. When I replaced the piston in my 925, I tore the cylinder gasket during removal, so I'd advise having a new one already on hand.
Hope that helps!
--JC
Honest John
ArboristSite Operative
Good Advice, Thanks !
Need a little help with chain ID. A friend gave me a Homelite Super 77 with a 42 inch bar, and a partial roll of Oregon number 10 chain. Some low life stole the saw. So a couple weeks ago I sold the S10 chain. The person that bought the chain said it's 404 not S10. I have the flap off the roll the chain came on and the drive links are stamped with a 10. I never thought the check the chain since it was stamped 10 and came off the original roll. If I'm wrong I'll take the chain back and return his purchase price plus shipping both ways. I'll probably take it back and eat the shipping anyway. Here's a couple pics of the chain. Thanks, Joe.
Not sure but I have a .404 Windsor chain on a Pioneer that has those same humped bumper tie straps on it. I wonder if yours was a chain made for a saw company or re-seller by Windsor.
Mine has 58B stamped on the DL's. It's a semi chisel chain.
58 is the correct number for 404 chain. I need to find out if 10 is the correct number for 1/2 inch pitch. This chain is at least 40 years old. Thanks for the help, Joe.
I have seen Oregon , Poulan and Homelite 1/2" chain. The Oregon and Poulan both had 10 stamped on the drive links, and they have 40 on the depth gauge. Along with their name on the tooth. Measure 3 rivets and divide by 2 - should measure 1.0"
redsqwrl
ArboristSite Member
to the folks that don't know me, I am a homelite Hoarder in WI.
a few years back I impulse purchased this saw to cut ICE and to hand a cocky stihl owner his as in the two man gear drive class. It accomplished both tasks and has sat under the work bench since.
I find myself needing to run these saws during break up to keep from going buggy. Well after getting the bucket list item of being a sawyer for the day checked off, I called my logger buddy and asked him to go back in the timber and grab a crotch that I bucked.. He did and here is the super wiz getting after it.
I need to video this stuff, but it never seems like a good use of time until I am back at home.
a few years back I impulse purchased this saw to cut ICE and to hand a cocky stihl owner his as in the two man gear drive class. It accomplished both tasks and has sat under the work bench since.
I find myself needing to run these saws during break up to keep from going buggy. Well after getting the bucket list item of being a sawyer for the day checked off, I called my logger buddy and asked him to go back in the timber and grab a crotch that I bucked.. He did and here is the super wiz getting after it.
I need to video this stuff, but it never seems like a good use of time until I am back at home.
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KYsawman
Mr XL-12
Yo do not want the hassle of messing with that old thing just send it to me and I will free you from the headache, lol!!
ML12
ArboristSite Guru
I'm new here, just thought I would post a couple pictures of my restored homelites. neither have been run yet. Both got brand new top ends in addition to the usual fuel lines, carb kits etc. 
sweepleader
Chainsaws and Fire Trucks, perfect.
Very nice work there ML12, but you better be careful that XL-12 just might take off on its own, you left the ignition on!
How did you mask the starter to paint the white so nice?
How did you mask the starter to paint the white so nice?
ML12
ArboristSite Guru
Thanks! I painted the blue base coat first, then wrapped masking tape around the pull starter making sure that I was even, the edges I wrapped tape over and got it into all the contours, then I used a razor blade to cut the excess tape off at the base of the contour. The trick was to pull the tape off when the paint wasn't dry to get a nice edge.
lesorubcheek
Addicted to ArboristSite
Been working on this saw for a few days and wanted to share something that may be helpful to someone else in the future.
Finished rebuilding with new bearings, seals, and rings and was ready to see how she would run. It fired off after a few pulls with the choke, so I was optimistic all was well. Started up with choke off, but didn't seem to be idling well. Tried richer, then leaner on the lo side, but still didn't seem right. When it would sorta hold idle, as soon as I gave some throttle, it would bog out. Noticed extra fuel coming out of the carb, so figured something wasn't right.
Took the carb off, checked that the gaskets were on the right side of the diaphragms, needle not stuck, etc. Everything looked normal. Put it back on, tried again, and same thing. These HL 273s have a governor, so started thinking maybe it was failing and letting too much fuel pass prematurely. Took an aluminum pie plate and punched a plug to eliminate the governor. No luck, same bad running.
Looked at the reeds to make sure they were seated correctly. Everything looked as it should. Decided to do another vac/pressure test. I'd tested it during assembly, but thought it wouldn't hurt to check again. Sure enough, no leaks for vacuum or pressure.
Decided to swap carbs with another good running 2100. The carb from the other saw behaved the same on this one, and the carb from this one ran great on the other 2100, so I knew it wasn't a carb problem.
So, good carb, no air leaks, plenty of compression, runs at idle, but a bit rough, and won't take throttle..... what could be going one here. Decided to look at the ignition system since I'm running out of possibilities.
The point gap was good, all was clean, coil impedance appeared good using a meter. Removed the condenser to check it once again. It was a hair over 0.2 uf when installed which seemed good. I noticed when I removed it the wire was a bit loose and would rotate. After handling a bit, this is what happened.
Turns out the wire was barely holding on by a few strands. It measured good capacitance, but wasn't capable of handling current flow. Replaced with a new once, and sure enough, now it runs great.
I never dealt with a bad capacitor before, so this was a learning experience. Always figured if bad, there wouldn't be any spark, or it'd be too weak to even run. This thing had a good enough looking spark at the plug with this bad condenser installed, and even held a rough idle, but wouldn't open up, flooding out instead. The condenser was the last thing I thought of. Learn something new everyday.
Dan
Finished rebuilding with new bearings, seals, and rings and was ready to see how she would run. It fired off after a few pulls with the choke, so I was optimistic all was well. Started up with choke off, but didn't seem to be idling well. Tried richer, then leaner on the lo side, but still didn't seem right. When it would sorta hold idle, as soon as I gave some throttle, it would bog out. Noticed extra fuel coming out of the carb, so figured something wasn't right.
Took the carb off, checked that the gaskets were on the right side of the diaphragms, needle not stuck, etc. Everything looked normal. Put it back on, tried again, and same thing. These HL 273s have a governor, so started thinking maybe it was failing and letting too much fuel pass prematurely. Took an aluminum pie plate and punched a plug to eliminate the governor. No luck, same bad running.
Looked at the reeds to make sure they were seated correctly. Everything looked as it should. Decided to do another vac/pressure test. I'd tested it during assembly, but thought it wouldn't hurt to check again. Sure enough, no leaks for vacuum or pressure.
Decided to swap carbs with another good running 2100. The carb from the other saw behaved the same on this one, and the carb from this one ran great on the other 2100, so I knew it wasn't a carb problem.
So, good carb, no air leaks, plenty of compression, runs at idle, but a bit rough, and won't take throttle..... what could be going one here. Decided to look at the ignition system since I'm running out of possibilities.
The point gap was good, all was clean, coil impedance appeared good using a meter. Removed the condenser to check it once again. It was a hair over 0.2 uf when installed which seemed good. I noticed when I removed it the wire was a bit loose and would rotate. After handling a bit, this is what happened.
Turns out the wire was barely holding on by a few strands. It measured good capacitance, but wasn't capable of handling current flow. Replaced with a new once, and sure enough, now it runs great.
I never dealt with a bad capacitor before, so this was a learning experience. Always figured if bad, there wouldn't be any spark, or it'd be too weak to even run. This thing had a good enough looking spark at the plug with this bad condenser installed, and even held a rough idle, but wouldn't open up, flooding out instead. The condenser was the last thing I thought of. Learn something new everyday.
Dan
redsqwrl
ArboristSite Member
I have been through many condensors this year, skid steer, wood splitter, air cooled bug motor in the snow trac ST-4 I am starting to wonder.
I was surprised how much of a difference just cleaning the rust out from under them helped my skid steer 2.3 L ford same as a 600 series tractor.
Great discovery work.
Go ahead and mail me that 3100 please, that is the one saw that still eludes me.
I was surprised how much of a difference just cleaning the rust out from under them helped my skid steer 2.3 L ford same as a 600 series tractor.
Great discovery work.
Go ahead and mail me that 3100 please, that is the one saw that still eludes me.
lesorubcheek
Addicted to ArboristSite
Mike, I wish that wuz a 3100 
. Unfortunately its a Super 2100, and a later one at that with the little 3/4" clutch. Still fun though. There's a David Bradley that's been hard to get going and I'm betting it has a condenser problem too. Think that's going to be next in line for checking out. I remember years ago when I was looking for a meter, wanted to make sure it measured capacitance just so we could check out condensers. Now finally starting to see there's a little more too it than just getting a good measurement.
Dan
. Unfortunately its a Super 2100, and a later one at that with the little 3/4" clutch. Still fun though. There's a David Bradley that's been hard to get going and I'm betting it has a condenser problem too. Think that's going to be next in line for checking out. I remember years ago when I was looking for a meter, wanted to make sure it measured capacitance just so we could check out condensers. Now finally starting to see there's a little more too it than just getting a good measurement.Dan
lesorubcheek
Addicted to ArboristSite
Yep, a new condenser and now this one runs great. I know its not a Homelite, but wanted to follow up with the previous post.
Dan
Dan
redsqwrl
ArboristSite Member
I never realized the super 2100 had that little door. I thought just the 3100 had that feature.
That davey is pretty clean, I have a direct drive version hanging out with the homeboys in the barn.
Maybe you should send it up for review any way.....!!!!
That davey is pretty clean, I have a direct drive version hanging out with the homeboys in the barn.
Maybe you should send it up for review any way.....!!!!
