Homelite Chainsaws

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Got the new fuel line in last night but still need to rig up something for the grommet that was no good behind the clutch. Put some mix in and it fired up for about 10 seconds then quit. It needs a carb kit before I do anything else, then it should be good to go.
 
Buddy dropped off a couple of Homelites on Sunday looking to have one runner put together. He just wants a saw for camping firewood. He had attempted to strip one down after his compression indicated 90 lbs. After pulling some screws he tried to pry the "case" apart. Not a good idea. Scarred up the mating halves pretty well. Turns out both saws are XL-76's. Piston on the botched one is great and wet compression feels like it should - high.

I tried to use the area where the handle mounts to the tank projection at the bottom, to lever the seam open. Lots of Motoseal. I let it set up and bolted the tank halves together. Added a layer of JB-Weld on the seam externally. We'll see if it seals enough to hold the fuel.

SDC is sitting in Seafoam. I pulled the throttle shaft so as to expose the accelerator pump diaphragm. Hopefully it will loosen enough I can get it off and reuse it. The membrane itself has significantly softened over three days.

Both earlier ignition models. One has a brown atom module now and the other the red factory trigger. 1977 on the red. Very reassuring to pull the starter covers and not see the familiar blue Prestolite. Might have to talk him into leaving me with the other if this one lives.
 
Saw runs tight. No air leaks, tank is holding and the ignition with the Atom cleaned up. Gotta pull with some mustard on this one or it will come up short and hard. Accelerator pump was left well enough alone. New kit, gaskets and line (custom fit). Cleaned up the oiler system. Great running saw. Buddy is happy enough to leave me with the other mostly complete - minus muffler - XL-76.

XL-76 Beater 1.jpg XL-76 Beater 2.jpg

A bit of heat with the gun and the contour of dropper form a nice shape for fitting the line to the carb once on the saw. Small Ty-Rap to finish it off.

Homelite - Fuel Line  1.jpg Homelite - Fuel Line  2.jpg XL-76 Beater 3.jpg
 
Saw runs tight. No air leaks, tank is holding and the ignition with the Atom cleaned up. Gotta pull with some mustard on this one or it will come up short and hard. Accelerator pump was left well enough alone. New kit, gaskets and line (custom fit). Cleaned up the oiler system. Great running saw. Buddy is happy enough to leave me with the other mostly complete - minus muffler - XL-76.

View attachment 509069 View attachment 509070

A bit of heat with the gun and the contour of dropper form a nice shape for fitting the line to the carb once on the saw. Small Ty-Rap to finish it off.

View attachment 509071 View attachment 509072 View attachment 509073
Finally got the valve Reed from e- bay looking forward to putting it back together after werk tomorrow. Ain't got the stuff from chainsaw lady yet.
 
Finally got the valve Reed from e- bay looking forward to putting it back together after werk tomorrow. Ain't got the stuff from chainsaw lady yet.
Sorry to be so late with your package, but since I didn't hve a correct address I didn't get it sent out until 6-17-16. You should get it soon.
chainsawlady
 
View attachment 507564 I need reeds for my super XL automatic.
Please help.
Based on your previous picture, I am assuming you have already had this out? Did one fall into the case? When you put the reed block/seat back in, place them on with a coating of oil. The oil provides enough tension to keep them from falling off.

Stroke a screwdriver against the flywheel magnets. Might be able to fish it out that way, if that is the case.
 
Based on your previous picture, I am assuming you have already had this out? Did one fall into the case? When you put the reed block/seat back in, place them on with a coating of oil. The oil provides enough tension to keep them from falling off.

Stroke a screwdriver against the flywheel magnets. Might be able to fish it out that way, if that is the case.
Phew got it out. Took a lil sweet talk and some long skinny pliers. She still won't crank but I know the carb needs adjusting.
 
Phew got it out. Took a lil sweet talk and some long skinny pliers. She still won't crank but I know the carb needs adjusting.
Screwdriver thingy didn't werk. Was worth trying, wasn't strong enough for it to turn while coming out and stay in it.
 
Will the full wrap handle and mounting bracket for a Super EZAO work on any super ezao model? I have 2 and the ut #'s are 10556 and 10537.
 
I would think yes. The handle bracket for the full wrap is different than the regular handle but the PN's for the Mini, and EZ's are the same . Th old PN supercedes to the newer one for the group on all models I could check on.
Can't be sure though.
 
I would think yes. The handle bracket for the full wrap is different than the regular handle but the PN's for the Mini, and EZ's are the same . Th old PN supercedes to the newer one for the group on all models I could check on.
Can't be sure though.
Thanks fossil. Every super ezao i own or have seen or used looked the same except some have had the white paint and i think ive seen a different style clutch...Maybe even plastic parts on late models. The Fleabay seller said it was a super ez full wrap handle bar and correct handle mounting bracket but listed a bunch of UT numbers that were needed. I am just guessing the muffler changed at one point and his paper work and missing muffler stated that only certain ut numbers mufflers would fit the western exhaust shield? I just wanted the full wrap handle bar and bracket. I dont want the muffler with western shield but I am ordering the custom felling spike
 
Most western style mufflers directed the exhaust gas away from your hand when cutting muffler up position.

I would think they would be a good investment if you intended to use it that way.
I have been trying to replace every size class of my old runners with new saws when money is availble and plan on retiring the super ezao's with a dolmar 421. I just want to install the full wrap on my grabdfathers super ezao to give it the full effect for display and to stand out at my mini gtg's. I will still keep searching for the correct muffler parts to make it an official western
 
I have been trying to replace every size class of my old runners with new saws when money is availble and plan on retiring the super ezao's with a dolmar 421. I just want to install the full wrap on my grabdfathers super ezao to give it the full effect for display and to stand out at my mini gtg's. I will still keep searching for the correct muffler parts to make it an official western
Fossil u call muffler up position, does that mean that the muffler is on top? I have a couple of saws that I want to change cause they blow the hot gas out on my hand pushing the mill. It's hot and annoying.
 
Fossil u call muffler up position, does that mean that the muffler is on top? I have a couple of saws that I want to change cause they blow the hot gas out on my hand pushing the mill. It's hot and annoying.

Yes as far as the horizontal cylinder saws go. Generally the vertical cylinder saws have the exhaust port pointing that way as well.

You may be able to make a simple deflector out a piece of scrap sheet metal.
 
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