Homelite Chainsaws

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Check the pump itself if yours is bad I've got a couple parts saws lying around between me and dad we got ten of them that run and 4 or 5 saws for parts

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I think since Aaron is MIA maybe @leeha would know the diff's between a 1000XP and a 1020.

To be honest I really don't know the difference. The 1050 is the biggest difference that I know of. But the 1000 and 1020
I couldn't tell you. I have a 1000 and it has manual oiler with the over run bearing for the starter. Not sure if the 1020 is
the same or not. I have never had one. The 1050's were all auto oiling with the standard starter dogs. The later super 1050's
had the ice cube carb. Can't remember which. Tilly HS or Walbro SDC.
The 1000 and or 1020 may also have the idle screw in the intake manifold. There was a hose from the intake to the intake
that let more air in or not to adjust the idle. Messed up design if you ask me. I have a couple XP1100's with that set up.

Lee
 
Don't know for sure Tim...even though I've had a few of those apart. Just some random thoughts. There were at least two styles of pumps. I have only seen one with the input hose. I know the actual pump/gear can be swapped if necessary from one style pump to another. Sounds like you have the one with the manual input/feed through the back of the drivecase.

1. O-rings on the back of the pump. I have encircled those in Motoseal on the pump and case to make a "better" seal.
2. The worm and pump gear engaging continuously? The worm tight against clutch?
3. Can you roll the pump gear with your finger when it is off of the saw (with the input hole submerged in oil) and see that it slowly moves fluid? Might eliminate the possibility of a leak in the pump body itself.
4. The copper input line that terminates to the backside of the drivecase (supplying the pump) is leaking? When I converted that blue XL-1 from manual only to auto pump I was worried about that connection. You cannot get to that one after the saw is back together. I think you could test that by blowing back through. Probably would test the check at the manual as well?
5. I've had one pump break off at the the cam screw. It fell out of the back of the copper bushing. Didn't oil so well after that.

Those pumps still think bar oil is $2.50 a gallon when they are healthy.

I'm good on items 1 & 2. New O rings, the pump shaft is turning when the engine is running.

Item 3 I'll check.

Item 4 If all else fails, the tank isn't too much of a pain to pull to check that connection. I should have checked when I put the new tank on.

The pump looks good all over as do the gears. The pump end of the shaft seals up well.

A fellow just walked up to me at the NY GTG and handed me the saw when he saw me running my XL-76. There was a patch on the front of the tank and I was hoping it was a leaking gasket. It was a little bigger.

DSCF3362.JPG

I have too many saws on the go. The EZ and Pioneer 11-60, Holiday, nightmare 2300, Pioneer 3200.

I'm getting too much like this guy.

I need a chainsaw.jpg
 
To be honest I really don't know the difference. The 1050 is the biggest difference that I know of. But the 1000 and 1020
I couldn't tell you. I have a 1000 and it has manual oiler with the over run bearing for the starter. Not sure if the 1020 is
the same or not. I have never had one. The 1050's were all auto oiling with the standard starter dogs. The later super 1050's
had the ice cube carb. Can't remember which. Tilly HS or Walbro SDC.
The 1000 and or 1020 may also have the idle screw in the intake manifold. There was a hose from the intake to the intake
that let more air in or not to adjust the idle. Messed up design if you ask me. I have a couple XP1100's with that set up.

Lee

I guess Sawfun is going to have to call Joyce.
 
A tiny bit of good news for those of you that have Super 650's and 750 Homelites. Confirmed that the following seals work as a replacement for the 53444 FW side seal.

Both are Daemar metal case seals. One is sealing lip only and the other is sealing lip with dust seal.

53444 seal dimensions for a 3/4" shaft,
Measurements:
OD: 1.005” 25.55mm

ID: 0.740” 18.80mm Shaft dia .750

Depth (width): 0.188” 4.78mm

Manufacturer. Daemar

Link to catalog

http://daemar.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/Daemar-DMR-Shaft-Seals-Catalogue-C0A-003-W.pdf

Seal lip type info pg 12

Seal PN number code info pg 13

Choice 1 S07510015BS 0.750 1.000 0.150 (double lip, steel case)

Choice 2 S07510018B 0.750 1.000 0.189 (single lip, steel case)

Guys with list please add the above and delete the . "POSSIBLY SKF 7410"
 
Hi Guys,
Im trying to rebuild a Homelite XL-923, but two of the tank screws are stuck, needs to destroy them :( Here in Hungary I can order only just Zink plated with hex head (min order 100 pcs). Have the following screws to anyone, who can send them to me?
IPL Said that the are: 8-32 x 1 3/4 and 8 - 32 x 5/8. Part numbers are 82146 and 82147. They have Phillips heads.

Many thanks!
 
I have a old Chicago Rawhide catalog (late 1990,s) that lists seals by dimensions. (Both inch and metric). Maybe could help?

I've gone through all the current catalogs for various suppliers. They add and delete seals over time. Reference in the older catalogs sometimes turns up the old sizes but they are NLA so I doubt it would help. Tooling for saws is relatively inexpensive if any volume of seals is t be purchased in that size. Most common type seals like the saws use would be purchased by the 1000 for likely less than 50 cents each making it easy to have any size Homelite wanted easy.
A lot of the old seals were made in the far east even back in the early '70's.
What would really be handy is a list of automotive application seals by auto maker application, by size. Most of the seals we cross reference also have an industrial application as well.

If you would like to check the two out in the old CR catalog,that would be great to see if you can come up with a PN.

Try for 58308 Shaft size, .653" case bore .93"

for 12306 shaft size .624" case bore 1.157"
 
IMG_4307.JPG
I've gone through all the current catalogs for various suppliers. They add and delete seals over time. Reference in the older catalogs sometimes turns up the old sizes but they are NLA so I doubt it would help. Tooling for saws is relatively inexpensive if any volume of seals is t be purchased in that size. Most common type seals like the saws use would be purchased by the 1000 for likely less than 50 cents each making it easy to have any size Homelite wanted easy.
A lot of the old seals were made in the far east even back in the early '70's.
What would really be handy is a list of automotive application seals by auto maker application, by size. Most of the seals we cross reference also have an industrial application as well.

If you would like to check the two out in the old CR catalog,that would be great to see if you can come up with a PN.

Try for 58308 Shaft size, .653" case bore .93"

for 12306 shaft size .624" case bore 1.157"
 

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