thanks. Ray sent me the manual last night and that's what it suggested.
Homelite Chainsaws
- Thread starter briantutt
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If you happen upon an HS carb with the semi-fixed H jet, this bulletin explains. Here is a link to a post I made and includes the bulletin.
https://www.arboristsite.com/threads/is-this-a-homelite-xl-922-super.337244/post-7087049
https://www.arboristsite.com/threads/is-this-a-homelite-xl-922-super.337244/post-7087049
good stuff. thanks. your bulletin is for the HS 151A carb. I think the number on my carb is 151B. wonder what the difference is?
I disabled my governor.
Welcome to the DANGER ZONE!(Top Gun music).
Welcome to the DANGER ZONE!(Top Gun music).
No real difference that I am aware of, just a later version. There were other HS-1xx’s that had the same semi-fixed H setup.
I have a Super EZ Automatic in the shop that I am working over, lots of issues...
The fuel and oil caps have long "inserts" and both are leaking as though the duckbill valves are missing. The IPL's that I have looked at do not show that type of cap and I'm not sure how to go about making repairs. I can post some photos tomorrow if I get the snow removal task completed.
Mark
P.S. The fuel cap does not have the sintered metal breather and duckbill valve like the IPL shows.
The fuel and oil caps have long "inserts" and both are leaking as though the duckbill valves are missing. The IPL's that I have looked at do not show that type of cap and I'm not sure how to go about making repairs. I can post some photos tomorrow if I get the snow removal task completed.
Mark
P.S. The fuel cap does not have the sintered metal breather and duckbill valve like the IPL shows.
Hi Mark.
It sounds like you have the early version of caps. If so, you can pull that pressed in aluminum (?) tube that seals the same duckbill as later versions. It is a friction fit. Those caps are brittle (Bakelite or such) and can crack easily. I just place a fender washer over the tube so that it protects and sits on the threads. Carefully secure upright in a vice and get a couple of flat blade drivers in the groove at the top of the tube and pry straight up by levering down against the washer. It will let go without cracking the pocket provided you don’t lever it too far from plumb. There may or may not be a smaller washer that fits around the duckbill that the tube seals down against. Tap the tube down with new duckbill to press fit/seal and it should be good to go.
Thanks Cory, I didn't have time to address it today but I understand the process you describe. On many of the McCulloch saws you can grip that insert with a good pair of pliers and "twist" the insert out. I'll see what works best on these.
Mark
Mark
OK gang,this one has me stumped.I got this SXL yesterday & it was supposed to run on a prime.Kinda hard to do that with no spark.I pulled the saw apart for cleaning that took 2 hrs.,put it back together & still no spark.I've never seen an electronic ignition like this one (it's not a points & condenser set up because I got one spark on several pulls before pulling it apart).I even tried cutting off about 1/4 in.of wire where the springs plugs into the plug wire & still no spark.I looked the FW over thoroughly & can't find any ID on it anywhere that would say it's Wico or Phelon.
Attachments
That solid state ignition was used on the late model Super XL's. I couldn't find any reference to the manufacturer in the manual or the IPL's
I found out by talking with Buford Parrish & a member from HOH who used to work on those saws that there was a kit supplied that converted the saw from points & condenser over to the electronic ignition module.The kit consisted of a FW & electronic ignition module.I've since found a replacement Phelon ignition module on Sawzilla.com for $40 + shipping.Other parts suppliers want $70 - $120.This is the 1st SXL or XL-12 that I've run into that's Phelon electronic,all the others I have are Wico/Prestolite.
Mark, a couple years ago Tim sent me a box of EZ carcasses. I know there was at least one Blue one in there. Want me to check the caps tomorrow?
Did you have to put a new lock on that one? I know one of mine was missing it. It never bothered me, I always drop start them at WOT.
I've converted a number of my big Homelite's with a Nova II chips. My Super 1050, that I used for milling for ten years has one. They are easy to install. A number of years ago, a guy over on HOH stuck up a big long post how they didn't work. The instructions say to mount them as far from the coil as possible. He mounted his "ON" the coil. I have them on my 1050, a C51, C72 several XL12 series and an EZ. I was able to run the wire under the flywheel and mount them on the chassis of the big saw's. I'll post a pic of the 1050 tomorrow. When I first started buying them they were $12 each. last one I got was $26. I use them on single cylinder mower engines too. The Kawasaki singles respond to them well.
I'm not sure what saw this is. The chip is under the side cover. The Super 1050 the chip is outside in the fresh air. I'll get that pic tomorrow.
I should be back on the SEZ AO project soon, perhaps this week. I will see if Corey's suggestion on the caps will resolve my problems, otherwise I will report back here.
Mark
Mark
Joe,you can't use a chip on an electronic ignition module (mistakenly referred to as a "coil").Maybe you misunderstood my previous post?The Wico/Prestolite ignition module (commonly referred to as the "blue coil of death") was used on the SXL,XL-12,SEZ,XL-1,& I think as early as the XL-850,& the ignition module took the placer of the points & condensers.Phelon/Repco also had their version of the electronic ignition module as well.
I have used chips to replace the points & condensers on several saws & yes,they're easy to install.However,I do not use the Nova II chips as I think they're too thick & can't be used in some instances.I prefer the thinner one wire chips that sell for around $15.
I have used chips to replace the points & condensers on several saws & yes,they're easy to install.However,I do not use the Nova II chips as I think they're too thick & can't be used in some instances.I prefer the thinner one wire chips that sell for around $15.
Yes, I found one online for 3$ , very reasonable.
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