How can I increase saw rpm (thus HP) through engine mods?

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May be able to go with copper.Fiberglass would have to be special made.just cutting into a small sheet of fiberglass would weakin it causing self destruction.With copper it could always be "tuned" by annealing it.if it gets soft it could always be re hardened by heating and quenching.

I'd be worried about the fatigue life of copper in that application, not to mention I'm not sure that it has the required spring like quality. Hs anyone else done that?
 
Me thinks you need to heed Heimanns' response.

The chain is key just like tires on your bike/car.

If you really want her to sing, try some Nitro Methane.
 
Good points and true, but can we please stay on track

after 3 pages of tangents and 2 cups of coffee I'm about to lose it with this site... I appreciate the help and like the posts to keep this topic current... but if you don't know the answer please don't spam or troll the post.

Topic is: increase RPM/power of saw through engine mods

If we're going to talk chains in a engine mod thread, lets at least talk about skip-chains,.. that would improve my in-cut rpm right? Help keep it from bogging down?
 
Some of this "sidetrack" is trying to help you.

Saws aren't built in a vacuum. The chain will be just as important as the porting. You can raise the exhaust a quarter inch and have peaky wizzy-poo that will spin 13000 rpms plus, but die as soon as the chain hits the wood. If your saw is peaky, you'll have to keep the rakers high or put in a smaller drive sprocket to keep it up on the powerband, but it won't be any faster, likely slower. Better to keep the torque side of your equation up, useful powerband between 9000-10000 and maintain your drive sprocket and some more agressive rakers that actually take a bite and cuts faster. Stop thinking F1 V10 and start thinking Twin-turbo Cummins. You will also be limited by the reed-port design in terms of how far up you can push the revs. The reed block will always be your airflow road block. This design tends to be more towards torque production than the piston ported design.

You can buy laminated fiber reed material in bulk and cut whatever you want. They'll work better than metallic ones and not destroy the engine when they fail.

Lastly, I don't know if anyone has ported one of these before. If you're after some direction on what to do to port it, bolt up the degree wheel and give some stock numbers and the porters will be glad to guide you. At the moment, your question is stuck at the level of asking someone how to get somewhere without knowing where you are first.
 

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