Some of this "sidetrack" is trying to help you.
Saws aren't built in a vacuum. The chain will be just as important as the porting. You can raise the exhaust a quarter inch and have peaky wizzy-poo that will spin 13000 rpms plus, but die as soon as the chain hits the wood. If your saw is peaky, you'll have to keep the rakers high or put in a smaller drive sprocket to keep it up on the powerband, but it won't be any faster, likely slower. Better to keep the torque side of your equation up, useful powerband between 9000-10000 and maintain your drive sprocket and some more agressive rakers that actually take a bite and cuts faster. Stop thinking F1 V10 and start thinking Twin-turbo Cummins. You will also be limited by the reed-port design in terms of how far up you can push the revs. The reed block will always be your airflow road block. This design tends to be more towards torque production than the piston ported design.
You can buy laminated fiber reed material in bulk and cut whatever you want. They'll work better than metallic ones and not destroy the engine when they fail.
Lastly, I don't know if anyone has ported one of these before. If you're after some direction on what to do to port it, bolt up the degree wheel and give some stock numbers and the porters will be glad to guide you. At the moment, your question is stuck at the level of asking someone how to get somewhere without knowing where you are first.