how many climbers wear a chest harness or top croll? ?

[pdqdl]

Oh ; where I live we only get 12" of precipitation . So I'm in 2 totally different climates.

So what ropes are the best for arborist work. Is there any reason my Gri Gri won't. Work well for my repelling down the tree? ?

I used arborplex for many years. It does what rope is supposed to do. It seems to me that it melts under friction a bit too easy, but that might only be because when I was using arborplex I wasn't very sophisticated in my techniques; we used to burn up a lot of rope.

The other pricier ropes come with extra strength, flexibility, spliceability, and durability. Each rope has it's own unique characteristics, but the arborist ropes are all pretty similar in the final analysis. Figure out what is most important to you about a rope, then find one that matches. There are three major manufacturers of arborist rope: Yale, New England, and Sampson.

 

[802climber]

Yes, it seems that they are trying to eliminate the GRI-GRI from commercial use and replace it with the ID and the RIG.

Maybe you should look at getting a Lockjack? You would not have to convert between ascending and descending.

$$$ :chainsawguy:

LockJack Sport with SwivelAscender Descender by ART : SherrillTree Tree Care Equipment

Just think of how many split tails and micro-pulleys you could buy for this price!!

 

[tramp bushler]

Ya, thanks for the link.
All these split tails and other rope ascender systems give me a headache trying to figure them out. I think I'll just go with a pair of ascender s and a Petzel ID L . As I only climb for removals or limbing. And hanging pulling lines I don't need too elaborate a setup. I'll get a rescue figure 8 for descending when I want to reach the ground and pull my line out of the tree to go to the next tree in line for limbing. I just got tree climbers companion in the mail today. It seems I can do SRT with the ascender and repel with the ID L. .???

 

[pdqdl]

If you are going to SRT up those huge trees you showed pics of, you will want to get a foot ascender. There are quite a bit of straps and strings and contraptions to use if you are going to attach your leg strength to your hand ascenders. They just wrap around your ankle, and up the rope you go. I have the Petzl and I like how easy it is to slip on & off the rope. There are other brands that don't slip off as easy, but some guys prefer that.

I suspect that you will mostly have spurs on, which might make it a bit tricky to use a foot ascender at the same time.

When you get that rescue-8, make sure that you get a few loopies with it. Once you are up in a tree, you will be surprised how often they become handy. I use my rescue-8 as a collector to attach all my 10-12 loopies to. It has a nice big ring that has room for lots of carabiners. Once you have that equipment, then you are ready for speedlining, multiple branches coming down with one lowering cycle, all sorts of cool tricks.

The rescue8 and a loopie attached to a good anchor point also makes an excellent friction device for heavier branches you need to lower under control when you are by yourself. They are not as good as a port-a-wrap, but they are a heck of a lot smaller, lighter and more versatile. I don't think anybody lowers themselves out of a tree with a port-a-wrap.


BTW: thanks for your comments on my behalf down in logging. They sure gave me a load of crap, didn't they?

I thought the lawn fairies comment was kinda funny. His post sounded like he might have actually been tripping on something; he truly might have been seeing some lawn fairies. Myself, I don't know what they look like.

 

[tramp bushler]

Ya a pair of foot loops will be necessary. A big problem with the big tree take Downs is finding good ground men. . I need to get a big enough 8 for the doubled 1/2" . Think I'l need a double rope grab for a back up.

 

[pdqdl]

Not sure what you mean by "doubled 1/2"

Are you planning on climbing a doubled rope, using a doubled ascender? In my limited experience, that is a pain in the butt. You must have an isolated tie-in with no branches in between the two ends of the rope. I have never been able to do that without losing a LOT of time fussing with throwballs and other nonsense to get the job done.

I did learn a very easy way to avoid the problem, though. If that is your plan, inquire, and I will share the trick. Learned it here at AS from D Mc.

 

[Ms2004life]

For big wood take downs you don't need doubled of anything just your wire core and your rope then the pulley/block to lower the bit your dropping. Get the 'advanced rigging' book man and all your answers are there in black and white. Super helpfull and shows all the answers your asking plus all the answers to future questions. Enjoy, keen to get up there at some time keen to check some alaskan mountains

 

[Ms2004life]

Yale blue moon been the best all round rope ive had great for jumaring and double rope and dropping big ass pine as a second to my lanyard works well with grigri and dont seem to wear out

 

[tramp bushler]

1 st. . Not climbing on a doubled line. Decending on it. Gotta limb one side of a lot of trees. Several miles of pwr line r.o.w. go up with spurs and 2 flip lines. Cut 1-10 limbs per tree. Put climbing line around tree or good limb and put both in figure8. Repelling to the ground. Pull climbing rope out of tree from the ground and go to the next tree.

I figure I won't get as much pitch ect on my rope as fast if I'm not rendering it around the tree under a load on every tree.

 

[tramp bushler]

For big wood take downs you don't need doubled of anything just your wire core and your rope then the pulley/block to lower the bit your dropping. Get the 'advanced rigging' book man and all your answers are there in black and white. Super helpfull and shows all the answers your asking plus all the answers to future questions. Enjoy, keen to get up there at some time keen to check some alaskan mountains

For the big wood take Downs that was what I've been thinking. I was looking at some private h.o. trees that need a crane to remove some big dead limbs hanging over a nice home. A speed line rigged half way up may work but there aren't any any anchor trees for the bottom of the speed line without crossing the street.
Alaska has LOTS of mountains. We have lots of a lot of things except hot weather. The Richardson hwy. Which goes from Valdez to Fairbanks goes thru Keystone Canyon. Along the Lowe river. It where Horsetail and Bridelveil falls are. A lot of ice climbers climb them in the winter. And that is the area where the do the extreme skiing. And a little further up the highway on the north side of Thompson Pass.

 

[Metals406]

Glen, with other trees close, here's how Cody will setup a lot of times. Pretty simple setup, and a good escape option, as well as easier decent. He climbs in a regular saddle, nothing special.

Installing my climbline - YouTube

Frigg'n video won't embed. :msp_sneaky:

 

[tramp bushler]

We just had another earthquake 4.8 magnitude about 180 miles away. I'm planning on getting a Petzel ID L.
I'll get that book,Blue Moon Thats a good recommendations I can only find it in 1/2" .tho. I've thot about going to 7/16" rope. But will prolly just stay with 1/2" and get the riggin I need for it.

 

[tramp bushler]

Thanks Nate! ! I liked the " I edited out my riggin fit " :msp_wink:
Cody is real sharp. He figures out all kinds of stuff to make work better. Too bad he doesn't cut up here any more. But I know how the staying around home goes. Thats how I got into this climbing around here. Last summer I was gone for 5 months. Sure is nice being home
I use a 1# halibut fishing cannon ball weight for my throw line at this point. Gotta get a bag ..
Hurts when it comes back and gets me. Hard hat MANDATORY .

 

[Metals406]

Thanks Nate! ! I liked the " I edited out my riggin fit " :msp_wink:
Cody is real sharp. He figures out all kinds of stuff to make work better. Too bad he doesn't cut up here any more. But I know how the staying around home goes. Thats how I got into this climbing around here. Last summer I was gone for 5 months. Sure is nice being home
I use a 1# halibut fishing cannon ball weight for my throw line at this point. Gotta get a bag ..
Hurts when it comes back and gets me. Hard hat MANDATORY .

Now that's a throw weight!

That would smart, even if it didn't get ya in the top-knot! I've used Cody's Big Shot, it's pretty dang slick. Well worth getting if a guy sets more than a couple lines a year.

 

[pdqdl]

...
I figure I won't get as much pitch ect on my rope as fast if I'm not rendering it around the tree under a load on every tree.

Got it.

Get one of the friction savers that works like a tube around your rope. It stays on the branch while you are sliding down the rope, and it will keep your ropes mostly clean. It will certainly prevent those cases where your rope comes down impregnated with sap from the burn you installed in the tree branch. They are easy to set, easy to remove.

Tie a knot in the end, pull your rope out. Avoid narrow crotches, though. You won't like how that turns out.

 

[tramp bushler]

Ya. I've had that happen just putting pulling lines in. The Rock double line rope grab is for my safety when using the figure8 descending.
easy enough to slack with my left thumb, which has to be on the rope anyway while I have the free end of the ropes in my right hand. Getting a throw line up thru the limbs on a Sitka spruce is problematic at best.
Climbing with 2 flip lines will get more done in less time than SRT when the total time per tree is figured in.
.

 

[pdqdl]

I don't often get high enough in a tree to need the rescue-8 to come down on, and I certainly worry about loosing the free end of the rope.

Just install the rescue 8 above your regular friction hitch. Use a loopie, fix it to your saddle with a 'biner. Done that way, the friction hitch is only controlling the free end of the rope, and the -8 is doing all the friction control. This is the main idea behind the rope-wrench, so it's not exactly a new idea.

If anything broke or went wrong, you would still have your traditional double-rope with friction hitch holding you in the tree. Less hardware is often best, and certainly cheaper.

 

[tramp bushler]

I've never tied a friction hitch. Heard too many stories of friction hitches slipping. I really don't like anything that slips when I'm in a tree. I've spured out too many times to like the feeling.
I like rope grabs. Fought with enough cat's paws over the decades.

 

[pdqdl]

Rope grabs are useless for descending, but great for going up the rope. Like the name suggests, they GRAB. Then your weight is on the device, and you can't release it until you climb up the rope far enough to get free.

Seriously, friction hitches are the most often used method to control your position on a rope in a tree. They are generally not used on SRT descent, 'cause they bind up too tight and don't slide. Used below your rescue-8, any of them would work great even on SRT.

Do a little practicing, and you will discover that they are quite secure and easy to use. I got lots of links to knot webpages if you need any. I recommend starting on a traditional knot like the prussic, taut line, or Blake's hitch.

 

[tramp bushler]

How will a prusik work on a double rope?