How many pulls for a normal chainsaw?

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I never have counted how many pulls it takes to start my saws. However, they always start consistently and I think that if I had one giving me grief like the Jonsered was I would throw it off a bridge.

All my saws start in one pull when hot.

If the saw you have now starts consistently it will soon become your favorite. Too bad the dealer couldn't resolve it so you could have kept it. Wonder who will get that saw next?
 
I guess its too late as you've switched saws now.

after reading all the replies could gas be an issue? whats the ratio you're mixing? or are you just using the pre determined bottles by the gallon?

I was always told to check the basics before diggin deeper.

a new saw shouldn't need anything unless your going up high in elevation. sounds like you bought from a saw shop and not a box store so wouldn't it be tuned correctly when they handed it to you? All my saws were hot when they handed it to me and assured me it was good to go.

My huskys are 2-4 pulls cold for fire on choke and 1 pull off choke.
 
Personally I think that you got rid of a perfectly good saw.From the sounds pf this it was just running to lean as others have posted.When you were running it in warm weather this really heated it up. When the engine gets this hot it will literally boil the mix in the cylinder making starting it a real pain. I would have simply richend up both side of the carburetor. I did not hear a word about four stroking in any of your posts.Best of luck with your new saw, Ken
 
245a

My new 441 always takes a few pulls(8-9) to get it going when cold but it is not completely broken in yet. The 066 always starts in 2-3 pulls cold, ms170 2 pulls cold, 1970's Poulan 245A 3 pulls cold. Point is break your saw in and it will likely start easier.

*Exactly* the same with my 245A. Trigger lock, two pulls choke out, push in choke, next pull, running hard. That's cold. Warm, choke in, trigger lock, one pull.
 
Personally I think that you got rid of a perfectly good saw.From the sounds pf this it was just running to lean as others have posted.When you were running it in warm weather this really heated it up. When the engine gets this hot it will literally boil the mix in the cylinder making starting it a real pain. I would have simply richend up both side of the carburetor. I did not hear a word about four stroking in any of your posts.Best of luck with your new saw, Ken

I hope your incorrect on getting rid of a very good saw. I am having a little buyers remorse and my head is spinning. :dizzy: Like I said, when it was running, it worked great. But I was getting ticked off when it would not start and I am already tired from cutting and removing branches.

Either way, I hope the MS 362 is a very good saw as well. It seems to have got a lot of good reviews. I guess time will tell.

As far as the gas issue. I always used high octane gas and tried to use gas that did not have ethanol in it. Also always used Jonsered oil at 1:50 as they said that is what I should use. I will use the same mixture on the Stihl and hope everything works out.
 
I'd say you gave the Jonsered a good try. Was it tuning? Maybe, who knows and who cares that's done with. Enjoy your new Stihl.
 
hi every one this is my first posting

Hi just to say i have a old Dolmar 115 that if you are quick putting choke off will fire up first pull most of the time
 
8 or 10 pulls to start is not all that bad depending on what you compare it to. I had an Echo 500 for 22 years that started like that when new. Over the years I removed the carb several times and took it apart to search for possible bad rubber, air/vacuum leaks, etc. Starting grew to about 50 pulls hot or cold and I couldn't afford the $50/hour mechanic or a new saw so I named the saw "old 50 pull". At the end of a day cutting firewood the thing that hurt worst was my right shoulder from pulling on that saw. Finally I was good and mad and took it to the dealer. He checked it out, said he didn't find anything but now it starts good and charged me $50. It started and ran good for 1/2 tank of gas and then back to the 50 pull routine. Now that is some expensive cutting.

If it doesn't feel right get right back in that dealers face, get it repaired or replaced while still in warranty because good mechanics are few and far between. If you trade in a saw that has problems they will give you almost nothing for it.
 
Well, as an update. I will say I love my new MS362. Cold start is 3 pulls and warm start is 1 pull. I cant say it cuts better then the Jonsered but it is nice I can get it started when I am ready to start cutting. Of course an extra $110 to get it hurts but in the long run, I wont be cussing as much or getting worn out as easily because I had to do 50 pulls to get it to work.

When the Jonsered was going, that thing cut. Just trying to get it going was a pain.
 
I wouldn't be discouraged with 3 for a pop and then one or two after to go. My 116si is 1 or 2 if it's ran in the last week. It could sit for a month and still start in 3.
 
8 or 10 pulls to start is not all that bad depending on what you compare it to. I had an Echo 500 for 22 years that started like that when new. Over the years I removed the carb several times and took it apart to search for possible bad rubber, air/vacuum leaks, etc. Starting grew to about 50 pulls hot or cold and I couldn't afford the $50/hour mechanic or a new saw so I named the saw "old 50 pull". At the end of a day cutting firewood the thing that hurt worst was my right shoulder from pulling on that saw. Finally I was good and mad and took it to the dealer. He checked it out, said he didn't find anything but now it starts good and charged me $50. It started and ran good for 1/2 tank of gas and then back to the 50 pull routine. Now that is some expensive cutting.

If it doesn't feel right get right back in that dealers face, get it repaired or replaced while still in warranty because good mechanics are few and far between. If you trade in a saw that has problems they will give you almost nothing for it.
On a saw like that, 50 pulls. I would get my little squirt bottle of premix out and give the carb a few squirts and save time,wear and tear on the starter along with my arms.
 
028 super cold= 4 pulls choked for a pop, 3 more fast idle to run. 1 pull warm

Makita 6421 cold= 2 pulled choked for pop and 2 fast idle for run. 1 warm

Makita DCS34= pump primer and 1 pull choked then 2 off choke for run. Usually 2 warm for some reason. Can't tune it out

This basically works 99%

Love old thread revivals!

Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk
 
There are summer adjustments and fall/winter adjustments on the carbs.

My older 70’s/80’s saws I turn the low speed screw in while it’s running till it almost stalls. Then out 1/2 turn. Use a tach to set the idle speed to spec. Around 2,900rpm.
 
Much of this is also a learning curve, let me explain.
My Echo cs620 (played with a bit) took about three pulls with choke then 2 off cold. Sometimes the warm restart would be bad. Then I realized it was me not conforming to what it wanted. Now cold it's one pull with choke, then one off, regardless if it almost starts or doesn't with choke on.
 
One pull hot that’s acceptable, probably three pulls cold. I keep my saws tuned so they start one pull hot because we never know what’s in the woods when we’re alone that’s another post.
 
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