Husky 353 not cutting straight

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DPDISXR4Ti said:
I got the mic out tonight and indeed the cutters were consistently shorter on one side vs. the other. On average, the right side was .025 shorter than the left. The only thing is, wouldn't that tend to make it pull to the right?
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There are more factors, how about the angles and sharpness of the left vs. right?
 
Bermie said:
The longer cutters will cut better, hence the pull to one side.
Click to expand...

I should have taken better note of this one in particular - as you can see from my post last night, it's exactly what I'm experiencing. I wonder too if I'm also cutting the left side at a different angle, despite no intention to do so. I would think that the side cut to a "flatter" angle would pull it in that direction, right? This is all just proving to me that I need to get my Granberg figured out and start using that.

Also, FWIW, the chain is an Oregon 95VP072GH, which has .325 cutters. I'm pretty sure this is a "standard" consumer grade chain; I've seen a few threads on alternatives, so I'll look into that.

Appreciate the input - can't get enough smart. :D
 
SawTroll said:
There are more factors, how about the angles and sharpness of the left vs. right?
Click to expand...

I think the angles are going to be tougher to figure - can you really see a couple degrees of difference unless side-by-side?

On the sharpness question, can I assume that if the cutters were sharper on one side it would pull to that side?
 
Stick around, you'll get smart...er. Make sure you got the right size file for your chain size and work that file n joint out. Granberg jig makes filing monkey business.
 
Darkness77 said:
Stick around, you'll get smart...er. Make sure you got the right size file for your chain size and work that file n joint out. Granberg jig makes filing monkey business.
Click to expand...

Yea, but I got a long way to go to get smart. Hence the reason I need tools that even a monkey can't screw up! :monkey:
 
DPDISXR4Ti said:
I think the angles are going to be tougher to figure - can you really see a couple degrees of difference unless side-by-side?

On the sharpness question, can I assume that if the cutters were sharper on one side it would pull to that side?
Click to expand...

A couple of degrees won't matter much.....
 
I wonder if your "conscious effort" if making it worse. I know in the past when I've been using a hacksaw to saw into some metal sheet, if I don't start straight, and try to compensate when in the cut (i.e. turn the saw when in the cut) the problem is made worse. Almost like applying pressure forces the blade in the opposite direction (as the top of the blade is what the pressure is being applied to). That's why saws that are intended to be turned in a cut ( like jigsaws) have very slim blades - so they can be turned.
 
First post, thought i could help.

The amount a tooth takes depends on the difference in height between the cutter and the raker. If the right cutter is shorter and the rakers are the same then it will pull right.

Check your raker depth. And ++ on the
* Have two or three chains per saw
* Take care to keep the cutteres the same LENGTH
* Flip the bar every time you take it off to clean it

Try and rotate the chains to get even wear, don't just use one till its shot and then put another one on, swap 'em about.
Click to expand...
 
Okay, back at this one... After getting the new oil pump installed, I figured I should also get the Granberg figured out. That wasn't so tough once I had it all in front of me, though I wasn't so sure about the angles. I used 35 degrees with no camber to the cut - for reference, the chain is an Oregon 95VP072GH.

I went ahead and filed away more than I would have, wanting to make sure each side was fully cut near evenly. Initially, working on some small stuff, I went through the wood like butter. As I got to bigger stuff though, the two old issues starting to raise their head:
1) Cuts want to pull to the left
2) Cuts that require the center of the blade getting into the cut seem to dramatically reduce the effectiveness.
On the later point, I found that by using the end of the blade, or plunge cutting, I could get a lot more work done. Otherwise, if I had a 12"+ diameter log, once it got into it a good amount, it felt like I was cutting iron. Definitely NOT bogging - the engine was at full RPM almost like it wasn't doing anything.

I realize that I really just need to get a new chain, and isolate once and for all whether it's a chain problem or not, but any thoughts on what else could be going on based on what I've provided?
 
DPDISXR4Ti said:
Okay, back at this one... After getting the new oil pump installed, I figured I should also get the Granberg figured out. That wasn't so tough once I had it all in front of me, though I wasn't so sure about the angles. I used 35 degrees with no camber to the cut - for reference, the chain is an Oregon 95VP072GH.

I went ahead and filed away more than I would have, wanting to make sure each side was fully cut near evenly. Initially, working on some small stuff, I went through the wood like butter. As I got to bigger stuff though, the two old issues starting to raise their head:
1) Cuts want to pull to the left
2) Cuts that require the center of the blade getting into the cut seem to dramatically reduce the effectiveness.
On the later point, I found that by using the end of the blade, or plunge cutting, I could get a lot more work done. Otherwise, if I had a 12"+ diameter log, once it got into it a good amount, it felt like I was cutting iron. Definitely NOT bogging - the engine was at full RPM almost like it wasn't doing anything.

I realize that I really just need to get a new chain, and isolate once and for all whether it's a chain problem or not, but any thoughts on what else could be going on based on what I've provided?
Click to expand...


Get a new chain, and then try, if all fixed then you need to work on your shaprening skills. Or have your chain professionally done.
 
I have noticed on the smaller chain .325 when the cutters are uneven the saw will angle into the cut alot more than the bigger chain.One time(when I hand filed,I use the file&joint now)my .325 chain on my Husky 44 was cutting at an angle so I brought it in and had it pro sharpened on a machine so all the cutters were the same length and it cut straight again.All you have to do is make sure all the cutters on the left and the right are the same length and angle and the rackers are at the right height.One time when I was cutting pulpwood,think I will save this for funny saw stories.The file&joint is the same basic sharpener as the one you have,I set mine at 30 degrees and 5 camber,seems to cut good for me.:chainsaw:
 
woodyman said:
I have noticed on the smaller chain .325 when the cutters are uneven the saw will angle into the cut alot more than the bigger chain.
Click to expand...

Well, this raises a good point, as I'll likely be getting a new chain. Suggestions on what chain I should get?
 
WoodlandPro or Oregon from Bailey's.Just go up from this thread and hit Bailey's or it's Baileys.com.A good full chisel in the same gauge as your bar(.050,.058,.063)it has to match your bar gauge which is on the bar close to the mount.:chainsaw:
 
woodyman said:
A good full chisel in the same gauge as your bar(.050,.058,.063)it has to match your bar gauge which is on the bar close to the mount.:chainsaw:
Click to expand...

Just getting back to this thread - it's a .050 gauge 18" bar.

I like the look of those racing chains, but that might be a bit over the top.:chainsaw:
 

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