Husky 353 not cutting straight

[rbmopar]

Before I learned how to file decent I also had this problem. When you flush cut you generally get the right hand cutters in more rocks and dirt. This creates two problems. First you try to cut too long after the chain is dull and cutting crooked. This makes a lot of heat and wears the bar rails unevenly. Second, when you do sharpen the chain, you take more off the right hand cutters because they are rocked out worse, compounding the problem. So then you go with you freshly sharpened chain and figure it has to cut so you force it through crooked or otherwise. Eventually the bottom of the chain wears unevenly, so that even when properly sharpened and in a new bar it will still cut crooked. The bad thing is the old chain will wear a new bar unevenly in short order, making for a never ending problem. I guess what I am trying to say is throw the chain away, far away, and get a couple new chains. Then make sure your bar rails are square, which they probably are not right now. In the future if a chain starts to pull to one side, DON'T FORCE IT TO CUT, sharpen it right away.

 

[SawTroll]

Try the Oregon 20 or 21 series depending of the blade you have.

20LP - the bar has to be .050 to fit the 95VP he has.

 

[peter399]

Anyone tried the new 21BPX ?

 

[poulson01]

The problem is the rakers. If you hand file, especially without a guide, and you're right handed, the saw will cut to the left. Ask me how I know.
It's because hand filing anything over a 16" bar after it's been grounded, is a big job and you tend to want to rush through it. Since your right handed, you file the right cutters first so you're fresh and not bored with filing cutters. The left cutters get the sloppy seconds treatment. Maybe you don't even file them in the back to front direction, since the power head is kind of in the way. You just flip the saw so you're looking back down the bar and grind the file into the cutters toward the power head. Then, you don't even touch the rakers. The reason the chain cuts an arc is not because you did a crappy job with the cutters as much as you took more off the right side then the left...and then didn't file the rakers down to match. Now you have a chain that cuts .020" on one side and .005 on the other. I have chains that have uneven cutters that still cut straight. It's the rakers. Careful with the grinder. It's easy to get a lot of material off the cutters but not so easy to hand file all the rakers to match the cutters. Also, a lot of guys set up the grinder and cut all the cutters without re indexing. I grind each cutter individually. I have one of those $20 POS so I'm able to bring the wheel down without touching the cutter, then flex the plastic POS grinder and just touch the wheel to the cutter. I do that twice for each and then touch with a hand file. The rakers are critical though.



Did I mention the rakers?:monkey:

 

[SawTroll]

Anyone tried the new 21BPX ?

No, just heard of it a couple of weeks ago, at my Husky dealer - but not really interested, as I seldom see the need for semi-chisel here.

Having that option on one saw is enough for me (36RM for the 361).

 

[peter399]

No, just heard of it a couple of weeks ago, at my Husky dealer - but not really interested, as I seldom see the need for semi-chisel here.

Having that option on one saw is enough for me (36RM for the 361).

I use the 21BP a lot. And if it's true what they say, the BPX is 15% faster and closing the gap to the LP. If it doesn't dull faster than the BP, it's definately interesting. Best of both worlds.

 

[SawTroll]

I use the 21BP a lot. And if it's true what they say, the BPX is 15% faster and closing the gap to the LP. If it doesn't dull faster than the BP, it's definately interesting. Best of both worlds.

Hmmmm - I am waiting for the LPX, and stay with LP until it appears - will try 25RSC at some point as well.

Clean green birch is pretty kind to the chains.

 

[DPDISXR4Ti]

The problem is the rakers. The rakers are critical though.
Did I mention the rakers?:monkey:

Okay, message received. :greenchainsaw: FWIW, I do file both sides in the correct direction (away from the engine), but I think you're correct that I'm filling the right-side cutters first and more thoroughly.

What's not clear to me from you've wrote is what the issue is with the rakers at this point, and how can I attempt to "fix" it.

BTW, I just took a closer look at the chain and on each of the rakers is the number "25". I'm guessing this means that I should be filing at 25 degrees, yes?

 

[DPDISXR4Ti]

20LP - the bar has to be .050 to fit the 95VP he has.

Thanks, yea, looks like an Oregon 20LP072G is what I need.

I'll try flipping the bar and re-sharpening first any way, just to see if I have any luck. I've got a small batch of stuff that needs to be cut right now that I'll use as my "labratory".

 

[SawTroll]

Thanks, yea, looks like an Oregon 20LP072G is what I need.

I'll try flipping the bar and re-sharpening first any way, just to see if I have any luck. I've got a small batch of stuff that needs to be cut right now that I'll use as my "labratory".

Make sure the bar rails are even before putting a new chain on it.

 

[DPDISXR4Ti]

Make sure the bar rails are even before putting a new chain on it.

At the risk of sounding like an idiot, could you explain more thoroughly what you mean by this?

 

[Crofter]

Make sure the bar rails are even before putting a new chain on it.

DPDISXR4Ti Quote "At the risk of sounding like an idiot, could you explain more thoroughly what you mean by this? "


The bar consists of a recessed groove with a rail for either side. The groove is approximately .005" wider than the chains drive tangs that fit into it. The groove should be true with the flat of the bar. both rails should be the same height and in other words a line across their tops should be exactly 90 degrees to the flat of the bar. This groove and the two rails are what direct the chain.

Supporting a chain that wants to run, will in a short time wear the groove so one rail is thinner and lower than the other. The chain will get worn in corresponding contact points. It will not be projected squarely at the wood because of the wear. A new chain will not be supported evenly against the wood either unless you square up the rails on the bar as Troll has advised. (If badly worn the sloppy uneven wear on the groove may still allow wander off with a new chain under some conditions but ignore that for now).

That old chain will also not cut properly even if installed on a new or true bar because its chain chassis which consists of cutters and tie straps will be worn uneven also and its cutters will not be presented evenly to the wood.

 

[DPDISXR4Ti]

Excellent description Frank - I totally understand what you're saying and will check accordingly. Perhaps I'll be ordering a new bar as well.

Thanks very much!

The bar consists of a recessed groove with a rail for either side. The groove is approximately .005" wider than the chains drive tangs that fit into it. The groove should be true with the flat of the bar. both rails should be the same height and in other words a line across their tops should be exactly 90 degrees to the flat of the bar. .....

 

[Crofter]

http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=19132

Link to a good thread on bar rail dressing methods and checking for true.

I think you mentioned in an earlier post that run off was worse in the belly of the bar than close to the dogs or near the tip. That would make sense if the wear was concentrated there as is often the case. Some people claim flipping the bar is a test, but not if the other side might already be in the same condition. Personal habits or certain cutting conditions often wear the bar consistently in one direction and flipping it wont cure that. It does spread the wear over more surfaces though.

 

[BobL]

. . . .
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2) Cuts that require the center of the blade getting into the cut seem to dramatically reduce the effectiveness.
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This is often a sign that the bar groove is too big for the chain. Either the bar groove or the chain are worn, or worse, the wrong gauge chain is in the bar. The reason it cuts on the end is the chain is held perpendicular by the nose/sprocket.

Go to a store and rock the chain in the groove of a new saw and compare it to yours.

 

[SawTroll]

DPDISXR4Ti Quote "At the risk of sounding like an idiot, could you explain more thoroughly what you mean by this? "


The bar consists of a recessed groove with a rail for either side. The groove is approximately .005" wider than the chains drive tangs that fit into it. The groove should be true with the flat of the bar. both rails should be the same height and in other words a line across their tops should be exactly 90 degrees to the flat of the bar. This groove and the two rails are what direct the chain.

Supporting a chain that wants to run, will in a short time wear the groove so one rail is thinner and lower than the other. The chain will get worn in corresponding contact points. It will not be projected squarely at the wood because of the wear. A new chain will not be supported evenly against the wood either unless you square up the rails on the bar as Troll has advised. (If badly worn the sloppy uneven wear on the groove may still allow wander off with a new chain under some conditions but ignore that for now).

That old chain will also not cut properly even if installed on a new or true bar because its chain chassis which consists of cutters and tie straps will be worn uneven also and its cutters will not be presented evenly to the wood.

:yourock:


I believe you are the member here that I have learned the most from!

 

[Crofter]

Troll, are you sure you dont mean that I can take a little bit of information and make it sound importiment? Lol! I got good at making explanations because I used to do a lot of things that demanded I make explanations! My wife could fill you in on that!

 

[SawTroll]

Troll, are you sure you dont mean that I can take a little bit of information and make it sound importiment? Lol! I got good at making explanations because I used to do a lot of things that demanded I make explanations! My wife could fill you in on that!

You are very good at spotting the important differenses, and leave the guesswork out when you explain it - I notised that a long time before I joined here.....

 

[DPDISXR4Ti]

Some people claim flipping the bar is a test, but not if the other side might already be in the same condition.

I hear what you're saying, but given that I have a pulling problem, shouldn't it pull in the other direction if the bar is to blame rather than the chain? I realize it could be a little of both, so there's no absolutes here.

Any way, lots of good info here - forget about a fountain of youth, we got a fountain of smart here.

 

[poulson01]

What's not clear to me from you've wrote is what the issue is with the rakers at this point, and how can I attempt to "fix" it.

BTW, I just took a closer look at the chain and on each of the rakers is the number "25". I'm guessing this means that I should be filing at 25 degrees, yes?

The rakers are the depth gages in front of each of the cutters. When you file the cutters, you lower the cutting edge closer to the chain. The rakers need to be filed down to match the amount you took off the cutters.

(please help me out if I'm not using the proper nomenclature)

You need a guide to file them down otherwise the chain will cut really rough and try to snatch the saw out of your hands.
If you don't file them, the chain will eventually stop cutting. But first, it'll start cutting arcs.