Husky 353 not cutting straight

[Crofter]

If the bar rails are worn by an out of kilter chain and you flip the bar it will wear the same pattern on the other side. At this point it will not matter which way you flip the bar, the chain will run off the same way. I am taking for granted, lol! that you are flipping it top to bottom and not end for end as in a double ender!

When people get in a quandary with trying to straighten out a chain and bar that are both wonky they often find that the saw will cut true on the upcut but run off on the down cut. I have seen some good arguments over that but we are complicating things more than necessary. Enough to know that uneven wear on either the bar or the chain can lead to run off and that unless you know the wear patterns to look for it is easy to be mislead about what is the primary cause. If you cure the root of the run off problem immediately it shows up you usually dont wind up with weird combinations of problems and compensating cures.

 

[DPDISXR4Ti]

both rails should be the same height and in other words a line across their tops should be exactly 90 degrees to the flat of the bar. This groove and the two rails are what direct the chain.

Supporting a chain that wants to run, will in a short time wear the groove so one rail is thinner and lower than the other.

Bingo, we have a winner! I just removed the chain and bar, and it's easy to see with the naked eye that the lower left-hand rail is indeed thinner and lower than the right. For now, I just turned the rail over, and I'll sharpen the chain and see how much life I can get out of it before replacing with a new bar and chain.

So is the thinking here that it was my unbalanced chain sharpening that caused the left-hand rail to get worn like this? Another contributor could have been the marginal oil pump, which only accelerated the heat/wear.

 

[Jonny Quest]

I should have taken better note of this one in particular - as you can see from my post last night, it's exactly what I'm experiencing. I wonder too if I'm also cutting the left side at a different angle, despite no intention to do so. I would think that the side cut to a "flatter" angle would pull it in that direction, right? This is all just proving to me that I need to get my Granberg figured out and start using that.

Also, FWIW, the chain is an Oregon 95VP072GH, which has .325 cutters. I'm pretty sure this is a "standard" consumer grade chain; I've seen a few threads on alternatives, so I'll look into that.

Appreciate the input - can't get enough smart.

The Oregon 95VP is a narrow kerf chain. You may want to give a non-narrow kerf chain a try. They should work on your bar. The Oregon 20BP or 20LP are good options. At Bailey's you could try the WoodlandPro 20RC. IT costs about $10 for an 18" loop (sans shipping).

JQ

 

[huskyboy1978]

Anyone tried the new 21BPX ?

I've tried the 21BPX and 21LPX on my 353 and I've found both to be an improvement compared to the older versions. I've been used the LPX for felling/limbing and BPX to block up my firewood.

I would say they hold their edge the same as the old versions.

 

[DPDISXR4Ti]

Good timing on bringing this thread back up, as I hadn't yet ordered the new chain/bar yet and need to place an order with Bailey's. Any other alternate recommendations on the chain & bar?

Off-topic, but seeing your sig, is there a good thread on the "muffler mod" for the 353?

 

[huskyboy1978]

I like the oregon bar (prolite) and chain as it is easily available locally and the price is good. I run a 16" on the 353.

As for the muffler mod I don't believe there is a thread that specifically goes into detail on the 353 mod however it can be done very simply by drilling a 1/2" hole in the muffler thru the support bracket. Then you can put a spark arrestor screen in between the muffler and bracket. Richen up the carb and away you go. I would definitely recommend the muffler mod - it makes a very noticable difference in power.

 

[SawTroll]

I've tried the 21BPX and 21LPX on my 353 and I've found both to be an improvement compared to the older versions. I've been used the LPX for felling/limbing and BPX to block up my firewood.

I would say they hold their edge the same as the old versions.

I think they are supposed to be better, but I like the 21LP as it is.

 

[SawTroll]

I like the oregon bar (prolite) and chain as it is easily available locally and the price is good. I run a 16" on the 353. ...

ProLite bars are perfectly OK for the price.

 

[huskyboy1978]

ProLite bars are perfectly OK for the price.

Exactly. I'm not a pro just a weekend warrior if you will - so the ProLite bars hold up well enough for me.

 

[DPDISXR4Ti]

Exactly. I'm not a pro just a weekend warrior if you will - so the ProLite bars hold up well enough for me.

Thing is, I'm starting to think it may be us weekend warrior types that need the better equipment! :chainsawguy:

 

[huskyboy1978]

Thing is, I'm starting to think it may be us weekend warrior types that need the better equipment! :chainsawguy:

Possibly..... I know I trashed the original bar and 95VP chain that came on my 353 due to inexperience and poor sharpening. I must say though the ProLite bar I have on now has taken it's share of abuse and pinchings (I know, shouldn't be allowing the bar to get pinched). I guess I can't see putting out the $$ on a really good PRO grade bar seeing as how I could damage it due to my inexperience. Maybe once I have several hundred cords under my belt...

 

[SWE#Kipp]

I think they are supposed to be better, but I like the 21LP as it is.

I really don't notice a difference between the two ,,,

 

[385xp9106]

its your chain or the way u filed it..youve filed one side to much.or uve hit something metal glass or ne thing an u havent straightend it out

 

[angelo c]

Question From the peanut gallery,
Is there a filing tool similar to the Granberg for establishing/ maintaining a good true 90 deg rail/face relationship on the bar. ?

or is it strictly a shop surface grinder/ planer tool.

thanks
Angelo