Husqvarna 2100 Jungle Type
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I can tell ya that back in the day, the thin ring 2100's didn't hold up on the loggin' shows...many expiring before the season ended. Most of us were using PowerPunch @40:1. I will concede that some knotheads were convinced to run at like 16:1 still in those days with regular oils. It's very possible that with the thin rings, if too thick an oil mix was used the pistons lands would gum up with coke/carbon and the rings would stick...letting blow-by and reduced compression happen.
We didn't keep data or records then....we just got pissed, drew out own conclusions and bought another saw.
I never saw a jungle muffler on a 2100, but I have a J'red 80 I've used all these yrs that has one. We always had our mufflers modified and blanked the govs on the 2100's when we ran big bars. When I got down to 42" and smaller, I didn't bother.
The thin rings revved crazy fast because of the reduced friction, but they weren't running circles around the standard ring saws and causing any of us to pause in admiration. If you wanted a hot-ass saw in those days, you got a Walkerized saw.
Kevin
We didn't keep data or records then....we just got pissed, drew out own conclusions and bought another saw.
I never saw a jungle muffler on a 2100, but I have a J'red 80 I've used all these yrs that has one. We always had our mufflers modified and blanked the govs on the 2100's when we ran big bars. When I got down to 42" and smaller, I didn't bother.
The thin rings revved crazy fast because of the reduced friction, but they weren't running circles around the standard ring saws and causing any of us to pause in admiration. If you wanted a hot-ass saw in those days, you got a Walkerized saw.
Kevin
flying pig
ArboristSite Member
There was a Walkerized 2100 on kijiji about 2 months ago @$600. Probably would have been a fun saw.
The younger family members are doing it now. I don't know what that means....since I'm not loggin' anymore, I get zero professional feedback. I suspect they still do a good job or they would be butchered all over the Net by other builders and customers. Everybody thinks they can build a saw these days....not for me they don't.
Kevin
Kevin
Cool, thanks for sharing. It's always fun to hear about the good ol'days especially when it involves one of these iconic saws.
flying pig
ArboristSite Member
One of the guys who runs lowbed for the company I work for used to deal with Walkers a lot when he was logging down on the coast. He had nothing but good things to say about them as well. Their reviews on the internet are still 5 star, so maybe the new generation is just as good.
Glad to have found this thread. Still learning a ton about these old girls every time I work on one or sign on to research them. Nice having someone on here with a ton of first hand experience with them too Kevin. My Dad's memories of them never really grew from an operator's view to a collector's view. He had one mechanic up here he trusted with his saws and that fellow had free reign, Dad just wanted them as fast as he could have them reliably: they were paid by the butt.
Glad to have found this thread. Still learning a ton about these old girls every time I work on one or sign on to research them. Nice having someone on here with a ton of first hand experience with them too Kevin. My Dad's memories of them never really grew from an operator's view to a collector's view. He had one mechanic up here he trusted with his saws and that fellow had free reign, Dad just wanted them as fast as he could have them reliably: they were paid by the butt.
Thanks guys...love to share stories about using the 2100 back in the day in the PNW. However, they are my stories and not necessarily shared by everyone else in that period. I always worked gypo...mostly because the money and pace were much different than like working for Crown Zellerbach et al. I tried working for a few of the big union houses, but it drove me nuts. Gypos though are a mixed bag for sure., There were plenty of times that I had to chase down my money Friday night, or given some lame excuse why there wasn't any money etc. That got worse as I moved over to CO. Anyway, my memories are slowly fading and my experiences quite different than say a RandyMac, who was a bit before me in the woods and had some affiliation with the Park Service etc. To him, the big Homelites & Macs took the most scale...to me the 2100's did. His ilk did take the majority of OG Dougs, but not all of them. My belief is that the commercial loggin' shows peaked in the late 70's and early 80's and that's when the most scale was taken(not necessarily the biggest trees). And the 2100 had a huge part of that in the PNW.
I shied away from the big Alders whenever I could. The reasons being the trees would sometimes barber chair or slab on your back cut. That's when you needed a hot-rod saw that wouldn't stall out and could keep pushing the RPM's to the end. We were paid by the load in gypo loggin';they had separate piles on the landing to go with each faller. I don't remember how the big shows worked it when they had a separate buckin' crew. We got a check based on how our loads scaled out at the mill.
And yeah, most of us did day to day maintenance on our saws, but left any serious internal stuff to a saw shop guy or as in some cases, the loggin' company themselves might have a guy that just repaired saws at a central location....I never had much luck with them, but close associations with saw shop repair guys. Honestly, the big saws were nothing to us but tools. We expected them to get better & better and never had a reason to stop and collect them. I sold my worn saws to firewood gatherers and they were happy to pay well for them. You know what they say about hindsight......
For fallers, the real money was in right-of-ways....where they clear-cut for utilities. I wished I had just stayed with that....but a young man most often wants adventure and variety, not security...lol.
Kevin
I shied away from the big Alders whenever I could. The reasons being the trees would sometimes barber chair or slab on your back cut. That's when you needed a hot-rod saw that wouldn't stall out and could keep pushing the RPM's to the end. We were paid by the load in gypo loggin';they had separate piles on the landing to go with each faller. I don't remember how the big shows worked it when they had a separate buckin' crew. We got a check based on how our loads scaled out at the mill.
And yeah, most of us did day to day maintenance on our saws, but left any serious internal stuff to a saw shop guy or as in some cases, the loggin' company themselves might have a guy that just repaired saws at a central location....I never had much luck with them, but close associations with saw shop repair guys. Honestly, the big saws were nothing to us but tools. We expected them to get better & better and never had a reason to stop and collect them. I sold my worn saws to firewood gatherers and they were happy to pay well for them. You know what they say about hindsight......
For fallers, the real money was in right-of-ways....where they clear-cut for utilities. I wished I had just stayed with that....but a young man most often wants adventure and variety, not security...lol.
Kevin
Have read many threads. Posting my Q’s here as seems like the most info kept all in one place.
10 years ago I bought a Grandberg mill off CList for $75. Pic showed a Husky saw, which I wanted because the bar would fit my Dolkita. Owner said saw was seized, shop said not worth fixing, so he threw it in for free. Turned out to be a 2100 CD. Almost perfect bore and piston, and not seized, just worn out rings from bad air filter conversion. Shop pulled the intake, never pulled muffler. Dumb shop was my benefit.
After reading all the variations of this series, I decided it dig it out and start a rebuild. Don’t need a big saw, won’t be milling now, and it is mainly for fun. I want things done right, but won’t be a restoration or a production hard working machine.
So, here is what I have, and my questions:
1. PARTS SOURCES? Baileys has a few parts, Scott/Chainsawr has a few. I don’t trust most ebay sellers. Anyone here recommended suppliers or have parts?
2. PRODUCTION DATE for 2100CD, sn 5312819 Electrolux era
3. RINGS. ‘Thin rings’ B tolerance piston and cylinder in great shape and tolerances. Light gouge on intake from ingesting sawdust, no damage on exhaust. Rings are .33 mm thick (high) and 1.6 mm radial. Everything I find is listed 1.5 mm, which I assume are the ‘thick rings’. Since the piston matches the cylinder tolerance, I’d like to use it over and not buy a new ‘one size fits all’ piston. Where can I get thin rings, small end bearing 17x13x17 and circlips (those should be easy).
4. CARB PARTS for Tilly HS136C, with governor, which matches the manuals. Where can I get a full kit with gaskets, needle and seat, welch plugs and screens, and maybe governor parts?
-Is there any adjustment of the governor, or should I block it off?
-I saw discussion of HS149 carb used on some models, or maybe it was retrofitted. I have access to a 149. What are the differences, and should I consider changing? Do they use the same kits and parts?
5. FUEL TANK VENT ASSEMBLY is broken up. Any parts out there? Or can I install a grommet and small line and use some other vent?
6. FUEL LINE, WITH MOLDED GROMMETS seems ok, but source for new one? I think Baileys had this. Fuel filter appears typical replacement..
7. MAIN BEARINGS are good, but carboned/sawdusted really badly, and numbers aren’t readable. Seem to be standard 6203 C3. Sound right?
8. SEAL, FW SIDE seems like industrial standard.17x28x5 seal plus dust lip. Correct? or source?
9. SEAL,PTO SIDE on both sides of the oil pump, and the large oring/felt ring/rubber seal? on clutch side. Shown in manual but mine didn’t have it.
10. OIL PICKUP AND FILTER shows in manual, but I appear to have hose only. Source for new?
Edit: Solved. Found a pickup strainer that fit.
11. OIL PUMP ADJUST Manual describes two setting pump but not how to change the adjustment. Also, two different pump volumes listed. Anyone know the difference in construction and can a small one be modified to the larger delivery?
12. OIL PUMP SEAL for the two tiny in & out ports between pump and case. Mine missing. Were they small orings, or a gasket, or ??
13. EXHAUST GASKET MATERIAL to use? Std muffler, not jungle.
14. CLUTCH in manual refers to 1 mm of friction material. Mine is metal only, three shoes, about 1 mm radial clearance and looks like that is correct.
15. OUTER COVER WEAR PLATE missing. Looking for that.
16. DOGS, both missing. Probably removed for milling.
17. TOP COVER AND AIR FILTER missing. Has carb adaptor for round foam filter for milling, so I will probably just run that for now.
18. CHAIN BRAKE Have non brake cover, for milling. Would like to install a brake someday, but realize those cost more than I might have in the whole saw.
19. MANUALS needed. I have online links to good quality manuals, but can’t download or print. (The manualslib ones are almost worthless quality.) If someone has good files, or how to download certain files, I would appreciate.
Thanks for all I have learned and for all your time.
kevin j
10 years ago I bought a Grandberg mill off CList for $75. Pic showed a Husky saw, which I wanted because the bar would fit my Dolkita. Owner said saw was seized, shop said not worth fixing, so he threw it in for free. Turned out to be a 2100 CD. Almost perfect bore and piston, and not seized, just worn out rings from bad air filter conversion. Shop pulled the intake, never pulled muffler. Dumb shop was my benefit.
After reading all the variations of this series, I decided it dig it out and start a rebuild. Don’t need a big saw, won’t be milling now, and it is mainly for fun. I want things done right, but won’t be a restoration or a production hard working machine.
So, here is what I have, and my questions:
1. PARTS SOURCES? Baileys has a few parts, Scott/Chainsawr has a few. I don’t trust most ebay sellers. Anyone here recommended suppliers or have parts?
2. PRODUCTION DATE for 2100CD, sn 5312819 Electrolux era
3. RINGS. ‘Thin rings’ B tolerance piston and cylinder in great shape and tolerances. Light gouge on intake from ingesting sawdust, no damage on exhaust. Rings are .33 mm thick (high) and 1.6 mm radial. Everything I find is listed 1.5 mm, which I assume are the ‘thick rings’. Since the piston matches the cylinder tolerance, I’d like to use it over and not buy a new ‘one size fits all’ piston. Where can I get thin rings, small end bearing 17x13x17 and circlips (those should be easy).
4. CARB PARTS for Tilly HS136C, with governor, which matches the manuals. Where can I get a full kit with gaskets, needle and seat, welch plugs and screens, and maybe governor parts?
-Is there any adjustment of the governor, or should I block it off?
-I saw discussion of HS149 carb used on some models, or maybe it was retrofitted. I have access to a 149. What are the differences, and should I consider changing? Do they use the same kits and parts?
5. FUEL TANK VENT ASSEMBLY is broken up. Any parts out there? Or can I install a grommet and small line and use some other vent?
6. FUEL LINE, WITH MOLDED GROMMETS seems ok, but source for new one? I think Baileys had this. Fuel filter appears typical replacement..
7. MAIN BEARINGS are good, but carboned/sawdusted really badly, and numbers aren’t readable. Seem to be standard 6203 C3. Sound right?
8. SEAL, FW SIDE seems like industrial standard.17x28x5 seal plus dust lip. Correct? or source?
9. SEAL,PTO SIDE on both sides of the oil pump, and the large oring/felt ring/rubber seal? on clutch side. Shown in manual but mine didn’t have it.
10. OIL PICKUP AND FILTER shows in manual, but I appear to have hose only. Source for new?
Edit: Solved. Found a pickup strainer that fit.
11. OIL PUMP ADJUST Manual describes two setting pump but not how to change the adjustment. Also, two different pump volumes listed. Anyone know the difference in construction and can a small one be modified to the larger delivery?
12. OIL PUMP SEAL for the two tiny in & out ports between pump and case. Mine missing. Were they small orings, or a gasket, or ??
13. EXHAUST GASKET MATERIAL to use? Std muffler, not jungle.
14. CLUTCH in manual refers to 1 mm of friction material. Mine is metal only, three shoes, about 1 mm radial clearance and looks like that is correct.
15. OUTER COVER WEAR PLATE missing. Looking for that.
16. DOGS, both missing. Probably removed for milling.
17. TOP COVER AND AIR FILTER missing. Has carb adaptor for round foam filter for milling, so I will probably just run that for now.
18. CHAIN BRAKE Have non brake cover, for milling. Would like to install a brake someday, but realize those cost more than I might have in the whole saw.
19. MANUALS needed. I have online links to good quality manuals, but can’t download or print. (The manualslib ones are almost worthless quality.) If someone has good files, or how to download certain files, I would appreciate.
Thanks for all I have learned and for all your time.
kevin j
I'm in a similar position. I recently acquired a 2100 with spark and decent compression but otherwise pretty tough. Debating rebuilding it or holding on to it as a parts machine for another one down the road. Will be watching for the answers to your questions. Thanks for asking them!
Kevin,
I'll take your points one by one and if I skip one, it's because I don't wanna just guess.
1. There are people all over the country hoarding NOS and used NLA Husky parts. Supposed to be a guy in Michigan that has a ton of older Husky parts.....I've lost that info. What you're going to find out if you haven't already, is that many collectors are selfishly petty about their sources....even if they have enough stuff already for many saws to come.
2. The 2100CD ended production around 1987 and then the 2101XP replaced it. SawTroll might be able to give you exact dates.
3. The rod bearing is easy to find on eBay and from a variety of vendors. However, suspect Chinese. Be better to go to a bearing house and have them duplicate if possible. The wrist pin, good luck...it's total NLA unobtainium. Thin rings....are a joke. As I said in a previous post, nobody was running circles around us using thin rings in big scale. Now, due to the scarcity and cost, they are a fool's errand. If I had your saw, I'd get another standard piston and enjoy Caber rings. It's purely braggin' rights now like who has the biggest you know what. If you could find some thin rings cheap enough, clean up your piston and sell as a set...for the BIG bucks...you'd have money to buy the parts you really need.....lol.
4. Lots of 'imitation' carb kits out there...I've used them. Better to get a real Tilly kit and they turn up on the bay quite often. The governor is not adjustable. You can fashion a thin shim (loggers used to brag about using a beer can) from brass etc and place it between the crush washer and the gov unit. Don't use that diamond shaped carb to intake gasket they give you....it doesn't cover the impulse channel completely and your saw will run untuneable. The correct gasket is still out there as a Husky part.
5. Tank vent is pure unobtainium. I gave up finding one. Eccentric over on the pig site posted a fix in the Husky thread. Essentially, it's buying some vent off eBay for like a weedeater and riggin' it to fit. Works like a champ.
6. Lots of these all over eBay....again, suspect Chinese. The last ones I found were OE from ebay. Fuel related parts seem to last a long time if not used....I wouldn't fear NOS, but would used. Most everyone is using disposable filters. I'd rather clean an OE type.
7. Crank bearing are all over eBsay as well. Again of dubious provenance. Wash the bearings from the inside and the outside with saw mix gas. Crank your compressor down to 40-60psi to help blow crap out.
8 & 9. Seals-again, go down to bearing shop with one. On the other side with the oiler assembly, you have a small shaft seal and an O-ring. The small seal is a bit tricky to get into place because it keeps trying to fold. I used a long socket that fits over the shaft to help....some people are said to wrap a thin piece of 35mm film around shaft and then slide the seal w/oiler assembly over it, pull out the film. Seems like a long way around the barn rather than straight through it.
11. You get to the oiler housing and there is a screw that goes into one of two positions. Just download the Owner's Manual and you'll see the process. I never ran less than the high setting. Sometimes on a long cut, I had to use the manual oiler too. If you ever have gas leaking into yout oil, it's because some numbnuts didn't know there is an O-ring that goes on the bottom of the manual oiler as it slides through the gas tank and seats against the case.
12. It was a gasket. Some places like ereplacement.com still have parts like this. Some guys just JB welded the whole assembly into place...dumb.
13. Exhaust gasket material (metalized) can be bought at like NAPA....cut & punch your own.
14. Again, refer to original Owner's Manual.
15. Not sure what part you are referring to? Have a #?
16. Dawgs are available on eBay and custom as well. I used the 2100 factory template dawg to make the same pattern for some of my old J'reds.
17. Air filters run around $30 and are plentiful. Top covers are scarce in good condition and crazy priced. Unlike with Stihls, the Chinese are not making cosmetic plastic parts for the 2100. Pity, I think it would be a good market for them.
18. I never had a chainbrake on any of the 2100's I used loggin'....can't help ya there.
19. I've been looking for a hardcopy Service Manual for the 2100 for about eight yrs...good luck. There is the perpetual one on the Net you can download for free (or actually pay), where all the pics look like they've been dipped in chocolate. A friend downunder linked me to a site that had a decent PDF of the Service Manual. PM me for that if you want......(this is NOT and invite for 30 people to immediately ask for same).
In closing, I HATE that Electrolux Group AB sought to make this great saw just a relic from the past and not support it anymore.
Kevin
flying pig
ArboristSite Member
To ad to Kevin's post, the o ring for around the pump: I used a Cat 6v9746 on my 2100 rebuild. Been going strong for a few months now. They require a small stretch to fit but have a good seal and are the best quality o ring available.
I got lucky...one of the other O-rings on the manual oiler itself is the right one...I had a spare oiler. This is good to know....I tried all the standard meteric O-rings to no avail.
Kevin
I have one in the same shape...been debating for yrs on whether to keep it a part's saw and cannibalize from it......or restore back to woods shape. I hate paying all these stupid prices for 2100 parts. It's driven me to want a 394, which is a very close relative, but you can still get most parts for it. Forced to run a 394 because I can't get parts for a 2100 reasonably.....how fuc*ed up is that?
Kevin
flying pig
ArboristSite Member
Tell me about it. I did a decent restore on Dad's saw and wound up with about $700 into it. Then I lucked out and found a second 2100 on kijiji for $240, put a tank on it and a 36" bar and 404 chain on it and away we go.
Would be very easy to dump $700 for parts into one of these saws at today's prices. I scoured craigslist for yrs looking for decent 2100's. Clapped out loggin' saws starting at $375. Even went to look at one a long way away....couldn't even start and the guy wouldn't back off a penny. "I can get $400-$500 on eBay"...yeah well, then do it and pay their fees, deal with a buyer who's not happy with a clapped out loggin' saw and has buyer's remorse. Which translates into a full refund through PayPal and probably the seller paying for the shipping back.
Great score on the kijiji saw! Nice to deal in the real world away from eBay's artificial reality. The gas/oil tank on these saws now has become problematic after all these yrs. The bonding agent they used for the two halves is letting go. Was not an issue during the normal working life of the saw. Now it is because of their age. I've written about a fix in AS, but nothing that will last long term. A friend on AS found a bonding agent specifically for magnesium. It might be worth a try...after my debacle, I'm not so inclined.
Kevin
flying pig
ArboristSite Member
I have a friend who's really into metallurgy as well as being a ticketed millwright and heavy duty. He says the tanks are weldable and lucky for him I have two that leak for him to try it on.
Mag is weldable...I watched a tutorial on it. Let me know how that goes, if he would consider doing more and would it help to basic prep first etc before sending. Oh and an idea on $$$....of course...lol. The only critical part of the seam is for the oil/gas tank...past that area and it really doesn't matter. Just need a continuous weld for the fluid sections.
Then you have the issue of repainting to cover the work done. I'm not satisfied that anyone repaints these saws to the durability of the original paint....which was probably baked onto the mag in special ovens. The shelf queen collectors claim they can clear coat for durability over quality paint etc. I'm not convinced their paint jobs would hold up in day to day hard use. Be happy for somebody really knowledgeable on gas/oil rated paint to prove me wrong. I'm guessing your only real options here are auto paint?
Kevin
flying pig
ArboristSite Member
That's what I was wondering too. I wonder if Endura can be husky color matched, if not there's powdercoat
The only issue with powder coating is the range of colors available. I've seen like a Hemi Orange...not sure anything matches the earlier OE orange color. And I think there was even a shift in the Husky Orange from the older saws to newer saws. Seems like the newer stuff has more red, less orange.
Kevin
Kevin
First, thanks to all for the help and interesting history..
I have sourced many parts I thought would be hard to find, and dead ended parts I thought might be easy. Met a good dealer parts guy who sold and serviced them new, very helpful. I have my normal connections at bearings and seals place. So here are my loose ends:
-MANUALS: I have had online sources with quality images, but can’t download or save or print for some reason. I can look at on the phone, but would like to have permanent paper notebook copies. I am old school.
-SN AND DATE: Can anyone date my sn 5312819 Electrolux era, silver tag. Clearly a 5 in front, not an 8. I have IPLs from 78 to 83 so can check parts easily and make sure the numbers have not changed.
-PISTONS AND RINGS are the snag: Meteor doesn’t make, haven’t found source for Episan. Caber has rings if I can get a good piston. I don’t have machining capability to sub in another Husky piston. Checked ebay, the greek, LilRedBarn, some UK sources, and some others. Lots of no name china kits. This won’t be worked much, but I don’t want to risk the cylinder by using poor piston.
What are thoughts on VEC, Golf or LilRedBarn? Which is the better of the lowers? I’d use my OEM good shape thin ring piston again, but the only rings I found were $100 on ebay. I made him an offer, he countered at $95, so not going there. When the dust settles, I will have a good thin ring piston for someone.
-FUEL TANK VENT ASSEMBLY I’ve searched for eccentric on AS and OPE, can’t find the post info. What is the pig site? Anyone know the (Echo was referred to one place) parts used for the changeout?
-OIL PUMP: Dealer had a NOS large oring. Previous poster, and kevin's comments, is that CAT number to replace the large pump oring, or for the smaller manual oiler orings? Good to have that info in the files.
Smaller tiny two hole seal for the in and out I can’t find, but can use 518 or RTV probably. I do have some thin N70 sheet that may fit thickness.
-OIL PUMP clutch side seal still has me much puzzled. I have a metal ring pressed into the outboard side of pump. Compared to the shape of the new plastic version of that ring, I can see the ID has been worn out a lot, so I can see how it goes. However, it seems like there needs to be another slinger ring, labyrinth seal, or Forsheda Vseal, or something to seal the sawdust out from the clutch side. IPL for the .404 clutch shows a cone shaped washer or slinger that would appear to be that function, but the 3/8 clutches don’t show it. Dealer IPL did not show anything. Anyone have memories, and part numbers, of what it was or of something that could work? Where does it seal on the oil gear or clutch hub?
Otherwise, I have about everything except piston sourced. Split a lot of saw and motorcycle engines, but I finally built a case splitter which worked great. Built a puller for reassembly, and ADHD kicking in about the project.
thks, kevin j
I have sourced many parts I thought would be hard to find, and dead ended parts I thought might be easy. Met a good dealer parts guy who sold and serviced them new, very helpful. I have my normal connections at bearings and seals place. So here are my loose ends:
-MANUALS: I have had online sources with quality images, but can’t download or save or print for some reason. I can look at on the phone, but would like to have permanent paper notebook copies. I am old school.
-SN AND DATE: Can anyone date my sn 5312819 Electrolux era, silver tag. Clearly a 5 in front, not an 8. I have IPLs from 78 to 83 so can check parts easily and make sure the numbers have not changed.
-PISTONS AND RINGS are the snag: Meteor doesn’t make, haven’t found source for Episan. Caber has rings if I can get a good piston. I don’t have machining capability to sub in another Husky piston. Checked ebay, the greek, LilRedBarn, some UK sources, and some others. Lots of no name china kits. This won’t be worked much, but I don’t want to risk the cylinder by using poor piston.
What are thoughts on VEC, Golf or LilRedBarn? Which is the better of the lowers? I’d use my OEM good shape thin ring piston again, but the only rings I found were $100 on ebay. I made him an offer, he countered at $95, so not going there. When the dust settles, I will have a good thin ring piston for someone.
-FUEL TANK VENT ASSEMBLY I’ve searched for eccentric on AS and OPE, can’t find the post info. What is the pig site? Anyone know the (Echo was referred to one place) parts used for the changeout?
-OIL PUMP: Dealer had a NOS large oring. Previous poster, and kevin's comments, is that CAT number to replace the large pump oring, or for the smaller manual oiler orings? Good to have that info in the files.
Smaller tiny two hole seal for the in and out I can’t find, but can use 518 or RTV probably. I do have some thin N70 sheet that may fit thickness.
-OIL PUMP clutch side seal still has me much puzzled. I have a metal ring pressed into the outboard side of pump. Compared to the shape of the new plastic version of that ring, I can see the ID has been worn out a lot, so I can see how it goes. However, it seems like there needs to be another slinger ring, labyrinth seal, or Forsheda Vseal, or something to seal the sawdust out from the clutch side. IPL for the .404 clutch shows a cone shaped washer or slinger that would appear to be that function, but the 3/8 clutches don’t show it. Dealer IPL did not show anything. Anyone have memories, and part numbers, of what it was or of something that could work? Where does it seal on the oil gear or clutch hub?
Otherwise, I have about everything except piston sourced. Split a lot of saw and motorcycle engines, but I finally built a case splitter which worked great. Built a puller for reassembly, and ADHD kicking in about the project.
thks, kevin j
