I screwed up porting my Husqvarna 55 now what should I do???

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Trzebs13

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Well here's the deal, I picked up a staight gassed 55 and got the cylender cleaned up went gasketless on the base, and did some porting on it. Ran great, but I got greedy and took it back apart and some how I have manage to raise the intake port to much. When I reassembled it I noticed that the piston rings are coming down into the Intake port. :( Live and learn, I was wondering what kind of advice you would all give me. New cylinder? If so a new OEM one seems way to expensive. Would an aftermarket one be that bad?

Thanks for the help.
 
Rings crossing into the intake is not always the end of the world, stihl dose it this way on many models, you don't want the ring ends dropping into ports though as that's a potential problem for catching the ring on the port and breaking it or cutting the plating at the port edge.

Advice, don't raise the intake, don't lower the exhaust, actually starting out don't mess with timing chages to the ports at all, just clean up and go for a little compression if the squish hieght permitts go for a little port width is skirt width, piston pin locations and such permit. Approaching it like that you get most of the easy gains with few or no side effects or penalty on life expectancy.

A decently ported aftermarket cylinder should outcut stock factory cyl and it should last well enough to pay for its self many times over when comparing to the cost of a new saw or even a factory cylinder and piston.
 
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i bought a AM 55 P/C from Northwoods a couple of weeks ago. the quality is good, and i saved about $25 on the kit and several dollars on shipping vs. the other big sponsor on AS.
 
Some of those 55's are open port and some are closed. narrows your options a bit, make sure you know what you got before ordering.

I usually try to buy a good used cylinder or take a chance on cleaning up one on an ebay parts saw before I go aftermarket. A ported aftermarket cylinder will also work but I generally avoid supporting the chinese as much as I can.
 
The 066 rings are visible through the intake port, I'd run it if the ring end isn't centered over the intake like most huskies. does it have one or two rings and if it has two would it be possible to run just the top ring?
 
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Try it the way it is and see what happens. If it is no good then replace the jug or have a couple MM shaved off the bottom of the old jug, if the squish will allow. Cheapest options will probably be to replace unless you know someone with the equipment to shave the jug.
 
Some of those 55's are open port and some are closed. narrows your options a bit, make sure you know what you got before ordering.

Here is hoping you did not ruin a closed port cylinder..... The only option for a closed port is OEM, which goes in the $200-$250 range. A good used open port goes for about $50 on Ebay and a quality AM will run around $100. The two different top ends are interchangeable, so you can replace a closed port with a open port, but you will have to swap out the entire top ends because they use different pistons and have different size bores.
 
Here is a pic of it. I must have been drunk the night I was grinding on this. LOL Oh well, If you never made a mistake then you must not have tried doing much in life. It did run but, I know what is going to be the end result with it this way. I checked out Northwoods and looks like around $80 plus shipping for a Cylinder and piston kit. I just replaced the piston about 10 tanks of gas ago but I think I'll just go with the kit. And it is a open port by the way.

And I'm really glad nobody said, sell it the way it was.
 
Here is your pic embedded
175494d1299705071-p1010254-jpg


Yeah man, that looks like bad news to me. Not only is the ring visible but the rings ends are dead center of the intake.
 
:jawdrop:Holy smokes man you really grinded that one:jawdrop:

I love getting drunk and working on the saws...you live and you learn.:cheers:
 
You could relocate the pin for the ring..but seriously a cylinder can be had somewhat on the cheap...so long as it isn't that hens tooth 55 EPA. I would buy a parts saw, take a chance on the jug, sell the remaining parts. I just picked one up but the saw was nice enough to fix and baileys already shipped a piston my way or I'd send it along for what I paid.
 
:jawdrop:Holy smokes man you really grinded that one:jawdrop:

I love getting drunk and working on the saws...you live and you learn.:cheers:



Yea kinda F#$%@D that up. But at least I didn't screw up my Sacs I did the other night. Hmmmm, at least I hope not. LOL
 
Have you tried running it? There is plenty of curvature on the port to shift the ring ends back into groove and the piston is moving at a slow speed at that point. There's no gas pressure above the ring either. You might be able to get away with it.

As an extra precaution, you might take a hone stone to the top of the ring where it clears the port and smooth off any sharp edge.
 
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Have you tried running it? There is plenty of curvature on the port to shift the ring ends back into groove and the piston is moving at a slow speed at that point. There's no gas pressure above the ring either. You might be able to get away with it.

As an extra precaution, you might take a hone stone to the top of the ring where it clears the port and smooth off any sharp edge.





:agree2::agree2::agree2:

Order an aftermarket P/C kit for it and run it 'til it dies!
If you have the kit on your shelf, it will run forever!!!LOL


Mike
 
"If you have the kit on your shelf, it will run forever!!!LOL"

Yep, better than a factory warranty! LOL
 
Porting is one of those things where bigger is not always better. Take a look back towards the carb there will be much more restriction before the intake flange, making everything bigger right near the cylinder will drop the velocity and can cause more harm than good. Also check where the piston skirt is at TDC it may well be that the enlargment of the port is obstructed by the skirt anyway which actually will make flow worse than if the port was smaller and un obstructed.

Like said above, with careful beveling of the top of the intake port near the end pin it may well run a long time without ring troubles.
 

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