KenJax Tree
Terraphobic
How do you know the mechanic put the cap on to tight? Maybe it was the person who looked at the saw previously.
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Is This Normal When Buyer a New Chainsaw at a Dealer?
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KenJax Tree
Terraphobic
Its that what that cap is?? I always thought it said 710 but never cared to ask what it was as long as the car started.
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It was an employee of the dealership that chose to use a tool to remove the cap that marred it. At least the way the story is told, who knows what percentage of the stories are made up/embellished anyway? At times I have to use tools to remove caps that I have put on myself.
Clyde S. Dale
ArboristSite Member
I'd like to see pics of the damage. All this talk has me curious. Not that I don't believe the OP, but he's come here asking for opinions and pics would defintely help me and maybe others as well. I'd also like to see a pic of the new saw 
Been through a couple of restaurants like that. Can't argue the quality when you see it 1st thing.
spike60
Addicted to ArboristSite
I have only read the first post, but.............................
In my store there is no such thing, or concept, as a floor/display model. The saws that are on the saw wall are fresh out of the box, and next in line for sale. They do not have fuel or oil in them until I sell them, but they were inspected pretty good when set up/assembled. Some of you guys are over reacting a bit here.
It's very common for oil caps to be real tight when new. Little oil on the rim and they are fine. Never seen one that would not be OK.
In my store there is no such thing, or concept, as a floor/display model. The saws that are on the saw wall are fresh out of the box, and next in line for sale. They do not have fuel or oil in them until I sell them, but they were inspected pretty good when set up/assembled. Some of you guys are over reacting a bit here.
It's very common for oil caps to be real tight when new. Little oil on the rim and they are fine. Never seen one that would not be OK.
Every saw I ever bought that was not a special order was a Floor Model. What difference does it make? Every saw was brand new, never run.
Swamp Yankee
Addicted to ArboristSite
Tale of 2 dealers,
I use 2 saw shops in my area, one Stihl, the other Husky, Dolmar, J'Red. Both shops prep and fully service any saw that goes out on display so if they are busy, say a Saturday am they or their employee can grab the saw off the shelf and send the customer on their way with at most a B&C swap. Both dealers do take the customer outside and walk them through the starting procedure and run the saw, rechecking rpm settings with a tach prior to giving the saw to the customer. (This applies to trimmers, blowers, etc. as well)
To me this just makes sense, as the dealer can use slow times to get saws ready for sale. They can take the time to be sure all is right with the product without the pressure of 6 customers waiting in line. Set up to these guys doesn't just include taching the saw, but checking the chain brake, the oiler, and going around the saws and making sure all fasteners are tight. Huge issue according to the Husky, J'red, Dolmar dealer as most Husky's and J'red saws need at least 1/2 turn or more to properly tighten the screws, and this process takes time. Both of these dealers have a few of the higher volume mover's ready to go in advance. Let's face it, if they're doing an emergency repair for a logger or tree service, and the display is ready to go, they are not going to have the tech break off and set up a saw out of the box.
Other thought, though it doesn't apply in the OP's case, is they may only stock one or at the most two of an expensive, lower volume model simply to help control cash flow and inventory costs. This is simply good business and nothing more. If the dealer historically sells only one or two of a certain model a year, I wouldn't look for him to have more than the display in stock. From experience, I can say this really applies if your looking for a heated handle model.
Getting back to the OP, if the cap bothers you that much, stop back and discuss it, give them a chance to address your issue. For such a small inexpensive part they'll probably just give you a new one and chalk it up to customer satisfaction. It's indeed up to you, but if it were me, I'd just put the gas and oil to it, make sure there is no leak, and go run it.
Take Care
I use 2 saw shops in my area, one Stihl, the other Husky, Dolmar, J'Red. Both shops prep and fully service any saw that goes out on display so if they are busy, say a Saturday am they or their employee can grab the saw off the shelf and send the customer on their way with at most a B&C swap. Both dealers do take the customer outside and walk them through the starting procedure and run the saw, rechecking rpm settings with a tach prior to giving the saw to the customer. (This applies to trimmers, blowers, etc. as well)
To me this just makes sense, as the dealer can use slow times to get saws ready for sale. They can take the time to be sure all is right with the product without the pressure of 6 customers waiting in line. Set up to these guys doesn't just include taching the saw, but checking the chain brake, the oiler, and going around the saws and making sure all fasteners are tight. Huge issue according to the Husky, J'red, Dolmar dealer as most Husky's and J'red saws need at least 1/2 turn or more to properly tighten the screws, and this process takes time. Both of these dealers have a few of the higher volume mover's ready to go in advance. Let's face it, if they're doing an emergency repair for a logger or tree service, and the display is ready to go, they are not going to have the tech break off and set up a saw out of the box.
Other thought, though it doesn't apply in the OP's case, is they may only stock one or at the most two of an expensive, lower volume model simply to help control cash flow and inventory costs. This is simply good business and nothing more. If the dealer historically sells only one or two of a certain model a year, I wouldn't look for him to have more than the display in stock. From experience, I can say this really applies if your looking for a heated handle model.
Getting back to the OP, if the cap bothers you that much, stop back and discuss it, give them a chance to address your issue. For such a small inexpensive part they'll probably just give you a new one and chalk it up to customer satisfaction. It's indeed up to you, but if it were me, I'd just put the gas and oil to it, make sure there is no leak, and go run it.
Take Care
Tractorsaw1
ArboristSite Guru
This thread wouldn't exist if you bought a Stihl with tooless caps.
OR paid for the ebay saw you bought. LOL sorry op couldn't resist. Well did you get the warranty with the extra oil deal or did you forget about it after the hack marks scratched your thumb on the oil cap? O thats right you didn't look at that until you got home. Oh boy
isipwater
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Status Update:
Thanks for everyone's help. Remember this is my first chainsaw purchase so it helps to hear from all of you.
I decided to go to the dealer and communicate my concerns this morning, which were:
1) I initially told the sales person I did not want the floor/display model because I knew there were 3 other 555's in stock.
2) I was concerned that a possible threading issue could result from the jammed oil cap that now has gashes in it from a tech not being careful.
3) The 555 they tried to give me has a manufacture date of 2011. It is now 2014. I have done my research and understand the service bulletin issues associated with early 555 models (including 2011's). After looking at every other saw/models in the shop on display, mine was the only 2011 and the rest were 2012's and 2013's.
So here is what the dealer told me:
1) Don't worry about it.
2) We gave you $20 off the MSRP and a free chain because it was an older floor model. PLEASE NOTE: When I purchase this saw, I was never told they were giving me the $20 off and a free chain because it was an older floor model. Yes, they did leave that part part out.
2) We have to give you the oldest model first to clear out our inventory. Yes, the dealer did confirm that his 3 other 555's in the back are 2013's, but he won't give one to me.
3) How about a new cap?
4) If you want one of the new 2013 555's, we will have to take back our $20 discount and the free chain.
5) I will have to have our sales manager to get in touch with you tomorrow because it is off today and nothing can be authorized without him.
So, all in all, this has been quite the learning experience for me. All I want to hear is:
1) Here is your new saw that we just assembled out of the box. We appreciate your business.
We shall see...
Thanks for everyone's help. Remember this is my first chainsaw purchase so it helps to hear from all of you.
I decided to go to the dealer and communicate my concerns this morning, which were:
1) I initially told the sales person I did not want the floor/display model because I knew there were 3 other 555's in stock.
2) I was concerned that a possible threading issue could result from the jammed oil cap that now has gashes in it from a tech not being careful.
3) The 555 they tried to give me has a manufacture date of 2011. It is now 2014. I have done my research and understand the service bulletin issues associated with early 555 models (including 2011's). After looking at every other saw/models in the shop on display, mine was the only 2011 and the rest were 2012's and 2013's.
So here is what the dealer told me:
1) Don't worry about it.
2) We gave you $20 off the MSRP and a free chain because it was an older floor model. PLEASE NOTE: When I purchase this saw, I was never told they were giving me the $20 off and a free chain because it was an older floor model. Yes, they did leave that part part out.
2) We have to give you the oldest model first to clear out our inventory. Yes, the dealer did confirm that his 3 other 555's in the back are 2013's, but he won't give one to me.
3) How about a new cap?
4) If you want one of the new 2013 555's, we will have to take back our $20 discount and the free chain.
5) I will have to have our sales manager to get in touch with you tomorrow because it is off today and nothing can be authorized without him.
So, all in all, this has been quite the learning experience for me. All I want to hear is:
1) Here is your new saw that we just assembled out of the box. We appreciate your business.
We shall see...
The OP appears to be new to saws, and is probably more familiar with big box stores, where the display models of many items are handled and monkey'ed with (no offense, Tree Monkey) by kids and all kinds of people. Lot of times, parts are damaged or missing. In fact, many times in stores like Home Depot you will see the cords cut off of display model tools because they don't want to sell them (another story), or the display items are sold at a discount when a new model arrives.
The comments you guys make are appropriate for your environment - for selling set up, assembled products, and for keeping inventory up to date.
Philbert
(EDIT - OP's update posted while I was typing! Comment on potential differences between original and current models are legitimate concerns that I may also have in some cases)
I'd like to know how you didn't know you know whether you got a free chain or not? And you could just reference Husky's site for MSRP to see if you truly got a discount.
isipwater
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Dealer gave me powerhead, bar, chain and extra chain (after I asked for it). MSPR is $640 (per Husky website), dealer sold me saw for $620.
And enuf to leave a bad taste. So much for service. Many's the time I bought older new and have been rewarded with superior quality, but the OP has done his homework (the merits of which I have NO IDEA), and it doesn't sound like this dealership values an informed consumer...in which case, you probly would a been better off w/ yer eBay warranty. Ironic.
sunfish
Fish Head
Why not just ask for a new oil cap? There is nothing wrong with a 2011 model 555.
So it wasn't even assembled and test run? What was the point of taking it to the back room then?
nmurph
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The percentage of AT affected with issues is small. The AT problems reported on AS creates a impression disproportionate with reality.
OP, you've got a couple of choices- if the perceived problem bothers you that much, pony up the extra $40 or so and go home happy, or ask for a new cap and take the significant other out with the $40 you saved. BTW, if you had gone with Terry, you wouldn't have had this problem.
OP, you've got a couple of choices- if the perceived problem bothers you that much, pony up the extra $40 or so and go home happy, or ask for a new cap and take the significant other out with the $40 you saved. BTW, if you had gone with Terry, you wouldn't have had this problem.
Big_Wood
westcoast dweller
Is there any other dealers near by? I think that dealer could sense you were new to buying saws so took advantage of the situation. I would return it and go to another dealer. The dealers here never sell display saws unless it's the last one they got and they always give a discount. Ajacs has a 3120 that's 2 years old that was on display and it for sale for $950. If the 2011 is a known problem year it wouldn't even be a question for me. It would be returned ASAP. If that model year is a known problem it's gonna be somebody elses problem as far as i'm concerned. If i'm paying list price (which i generally don't) i'm getting the most up to date unit available otherwise i ain't buying. Walkers here has a display which are demo's as well (if you ask to demo). They stay as a display until they are ready to sell them at a discount. It's the way to do it IMO. I can wait a day or 2 if they don't have time to get me a saw out if the back ready at time of purchase.
I know there are alot of guys that will hate to hear this but a dealer is a dealer whether they deal cars or saws. They are there to make money and move units. A shop sdoing a huge volume on sales may tell you to get lost because they know they can sell that saw for more same week. It doesn't hurt to haggle. As long as they are still making money they wanna make the sale. Haggling is just like any other though. They will try keep the price real close to list. I've haggled and didn't like the price, started heading for the door only to have them call me back to the counter. They don't have to give everyone a discount or anyone for that matter but wanting to move that unit puts the odds on your side. I actually can't even think of a time i ever paid list price from a dealer. Flame me if you will but keep in mind a 550xp is a grand here. Haggling is a must. If i buy over border i'm pretty well happy with list price. The stupid thing is that even though our new saw prices are nearly double on some models compared to the states the used value is pretty much the same. Annoying actually. The 346 was $950+tax here when new. I bet i couldn't get more then $350 for mine and it's completely rebuilt meanwhile i see them go for $325-$450 on here.
I know there are alot of guys that will hate to hear this but a dealer is a dealer whether they deal cars or saws. They are there to make money and move units. A shop sdoing a huge volume on sales may tell you to get lost because they know they can sell that saw for more same week. It doesn't hurt to haggle. As long as they are still making money they wanna make the sale. Haggling is just like any other though. They will try keep the price real close to list. I've haggled and didn't like the price, started heading for the door only to have them call me back to the counter. They don't have to give everyone a discount or anyone for that matter but wanting to move that unit puts the odds on your side. I actually can't even think of a time i ever paid list price from a dealer. Flame me if you will but keep in mind a 550xp is a grand here. Haggling is a must. If i buy over border i'm pretty well happy with list price. The stupid thing is that even though our new saw prices are nearly double on some models compared to the states the used value is pretty much the same. Annoying actually. The 346 was $950+tax here when new. I bet i couldn't get more then $350 for mine and it's completely rebuilt meanwhile i see them go for $325-$450 on here.
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