My wires where always trained through the hooks on the top of the air conductor.. Is this the right spot ? If not they were put there before my time.
Jred ignition parts
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No they are meant to go exactly where they run in Marks husky pic......that way they are safe and protected from chaffage and wear.......the later 630 with the one piece ign runs them up over the top but not the two piece ign.
Not trying to sound smart but I posted pictures of the 266 and 630 so you could see the correct way the wires are run and even stated they were for you to see. Tryin
Robin just told you where the wires ran. I posted the pictures for you to see the correct setup and even stated I posted them for you to look at. Look at the pictures again, the 630 shows hooks on the air conductor but no wires are run through them.
The reason yours had the wire run there was someone put a different then original module on it.
Air conductor hooks may be for the heater wire...
Or the later single piece ign wiring......same air director through the years
You are correct on not actually trying to bolt it in.. when i saw the difference, I immediately said "no go".. As for the wire splice,,, if you look at the first pic with the three pieces,, you will notice the green kill wire that is mushed.. that translated to me to repair or replace.. Both of those ran in the collector hooks for as long as I've had the saw.... What mushed it ?? I would say Me.. I mentioned it did zero for continuity, but felt it was to receive a " home improvement". Glad to get the info on routing it with the signal wire.. I'm honestly trying my best with my limited experience.
Did you catch what Robin said about setting the air gap on that module when you install it? You say you have limited experience so I thought I would ask. Let us know if you need help with that.
specifically on what Robin said, no I did not.. I have heard so many different methods from business cards to dollar bills, to actual feeler gauges. I folded a dollar bill once. felt that was somewhere around .006. It's been a long time since setting breaker points..
On setting the air gap.......the method I use works very well for me. I find some plastic that mics 0.012" (correct air gap).....usually a throw away coffee cup lid in the trash at the shop is what a common item that fits that bill. I position the magnets on the flywheel under the legs of the module with plastic strips in between the iron legs and the magnets with a enough plastic sticking out to grab with pliers and remove after I'm done. Let the magnets pull the module tight against the plastic strips and tighten the bolts. The plastic easily conforms to the curve of the flywheel under magnetic pressure. This way you're not trying to hold the module in place , measure both ends and tighten the bolts with the saw skidding around on the bench. Once the bolts are tight pull out the plastic shims and you're good to go. This method is the best/easiest way I've found to get the job done accurately and quickly with out causing a spike in my blood pressure......
Here's a pic....diffent saw (Jonsereds 49 SP) but the same method.
Here's a pic....diffent saw (Jonsereds 49 SP) but the same method.
Thank you much.. That's the best method I've seen.. Confidence in an even gap, and no heart attack.. that's win times two. Also double the gap I thought was good. I did not measure my method with a mic, just an " estimate".
While diagnosis is not my strongest suit, I'm trying to be confident in determination of a bad coil set. Which elevates my blood pressure significantly by guessing and throwing parts around without the confidence of being "correct". Please have patience, and thank you for your help. Learning pills can be a tough thing to swallow..
I'm glad Robin had that picture and posted it. I have a set of brass feeler gauges and I know I got a picture of them being used but I cannot find where it is. Steel feeler gauges can be used but are kind of a pain, you have to make sure and hold the module core tight against the magnets and it is harder to get them out.
A question I must ask. What are the symptoms of the gap too small.. Would I still be able to determine a bad coil ? Is there a test method other than the spark at the plug ? Maybe resistance ? The test in my pea brain is the spark.. As in it's either there or not..
As long as it not touching you would likely never know. On some saws I've read service bulletins that call to reduce the gap to 0.006-0.007" to improve starting. But the design spec is 0.012" on most igns. I don't know of any tests on these modules though I'm sure there is someone more knowledgable than I that might. It's been my experience with this family of saws there are three common reasons for spark failure.....the module or the sparkplug connector on the high tension lead from the coil or the kill switch. Generally the coils don't seem to give up that much but that is not to say they don't either........which is why the AM module and coils sets are sold together and not seperately like OEM would. Also the coil comes with a new sparkplug cable and boot.....This solves any ign problem you may have....for less than $30.00 delivered to your door.
Thank you for your attention to detail in explaining that. The module that was sent with the coil did not have a spark plug boot.. I have never tried to splice one.. Do I shrink wrap it, crimp on, solder, or just stick it the old boot ? I'm claiming stupid on attaching it to the plug. The kill switch was replaced approx 1 year ago.. When the right coil set is found, I have seen ones with the module that had a boot.. Maybe I need not worry about that connection..
Is that also an indication that it was not the correct ignition set-up ?
The correct ignition set, usually comes with the boot pre-installed, but you should be able to take the boot and the spring end off of the old set and transfer it over.
The proper pickup coil has the ignition signal and kill wires permanently attached, and terminated, so there is no need to worry about splicing your existing kill wire.
For setting coil gap, personally I have always used the business card method, slide it between the flywheel and coil, then rotate the flywheel until the magnets pull the coil in tight, tighten down the bolts, and you should be done.
Here's that photo of the chassis with the mag removed. I don't have the replacement yet. If this is some help on locating the replacement.. Is it possible to use others for "suitable replacement ? I have no experience with one(s) that also juices the heated handle.. While not a feature that is used much,, I want it to work as intended..
Attachments
The ignition is separate from the heated handles. The blue wire coming out of the case above the coil area is the wire from the stator which is the power for your heated handles.
You saw definitely has a 288/242 style iginition, which is odd, and that adapter bracket for the pickup coil doesn't look homemade.
If you remove it, you would be able to bolt the "proper" style pickup coil on without issue. I think you could go either way on that saw with the parts that you have there.
Personally I have both ignition sets in stock in my shop, but the 266 style coil is much more common, so I would probably go that route.
Looking at the IPL's I see no mention of using that 242 style ignition on a 630, so I am curious where exactly that adapter bracket came from, if it is indeed not a homemade part.
