Lakeside53's --361 muffler mod w/photos
- Thread starter bri
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Ah, I was interested in copper. Good to know it works. I've never tried brazing anything as I don't have a MAP setup. I should really get one sometime. Luckily my current project has a 2 piece muffler that I can take apart to mod so I don't have to weld/braze anything. I definetely want to on my next one though, I love some of the pipe mods.
Joe,
If you consider copper, keep in mind where you place it as it is very soft. Especially when it becomes warm.
What model saw are you considering modding? If you tell me what size ID pipe you need, I could send you out an already made insert that all you would have to do is cut the hole, stick it in and take it over to your nearest auto muffler shop and have em weld it in.
And I would send you the insert no charge, Thats one with the screen already built in. And no charge means free shipping too!
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I'm actually not sure yet, it will depend on what I can find for another project saw
I appreciate the offer, and I may take you up on it later on.
Tim!
Thats a great mod, Have some Wojo Mojo. Did you do it yourself?
I think he does not have a welder. He could do that using some Stainless screen, the metal diverter, high temp silicone to seal the small gaps. And a couple of stainless steel Rivets.
You can get the Rivets from a restoration supply company. Thats also where I buy my High Temp POR 15 paint.
Scott.
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troutfisher
Addicted to ArboristSite
You can use high temp silicone in a muffler? I didn't know it would take that much heat.
I have to think that you are on the outside of the muffler, and you are effectively lowering the exhaust temp by opening the muffler.
I feel that you shouldn't use it at the cylinder port, but on the outside of an opened up muffler you would be ok with the red stuff.
With a wider diverter and some really tight rivets, it probably wouldn't make much differance if you did not use the silicone.
And again, POR 15 makes some High Temp epoxy that would work in conjunction with really high quality rivets. (of course you should us closed rivets so you do not affect the area of the added open port)
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I'm actually not sure yet, it will depend on what I can find for another project saw
brazing is hell easy, I bought a benzomatic torch for 80AUD, few plumbing rods and some flux and was good to go. First braze ever was on the saw muffler, and it came up hell strong. I think it's a good idea to wire brush the metal before you start as since then i brazed onto a cat muffler and it took all of 2hrs to fall off.
Lakeside53
Stihl Wrenching
The exhaust gasses are 1200 to 1400F at the engine, and tad lower at the exhaust.... Good luck with any silicone, even chimney grade...
Andy, there is a major chemical manufacturer that has a silicone avail that has a 100 hour continuous service life at 602 degrees farenheit. The Epoxy has an operating temp of 1500F.
We are not talking about the interior of the muffler near the exhaust stream close to the cylinder port. You would have to agree that the temperature on the outside of the muffler that is exposed to the 10 degrees to 100 degrees farenheit atmosphere would be more than a "tad" lower than the usual 600C on the inside of the exhaust stream. The would be greatly lowered in a modified muffler that breathes easier with less restriction.
Just put a hole in it!!!
Trigger-Time
Addicted to ArboristSite
I hope that don't mean...................CAT!
Lakeside53
Stihl Wrenching
Sorry.. wrong stuff for the application. 602F is no where near enough... Epoxy operating at at 1500? show me...
BTW.. I have measured exhaust at over 1000F on a 361 - my mod. ... at full power, not wot...
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Lakeside53
Stihl Wrenching
nope.. and I've said enoigh (for today).
I'm a thinkin old Scott is talking about sodium silicate not to be confused with silicon caulking compound.You can half-fast fix a broken exhaust manifold with sodium silicate,works for a while .With silicon it might work,oh maybe 10 seconds or less.
