The SDC 19 carb and yellow top tell me your saw a super 797. Nice 123cc saw in excellent condition, congratulations.
+1 on all of that ^^^.
McCulloch Chain Saws
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+1 on all of that ^^^.
happysaws
Addicted to ArboristSite
Boy, I think that's gonna be a little underpowered for that bar...[emoji12] [emoji23] ;DNice saw! I have a similar one that is 123cc, but it needs a lot more work than yours.
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brandonstc6
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Yeah, lol. I picked up a 28" bar for it. I won't to run that one once just for fun.
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Even 36" is gonna seem small with the power of that saw.
full comp. no skip needed @ 36"
ChipsFlyin
ArboristSite Guru
Thanks guys!!! From looking at all of the 6+ cube McCulloch pictures and vids I could only find that the Super 797 had the yellow filter cover but was not sure if there were other saws that may have. Thanks for confirming! I couldn't pass it up for the price that I worked out over the phone. Drove a hour, couple drops of mix strait in the cylinder, gave it a couple light pulls - it popped a couple times - handed the guy the cash and brought it home. Will order a carb kit and time to start looking for an IPL and manuals.
I finally made the 6 cube club!
I was able to track down the Super 797 IPL, the aftermarket large Mac service guide and the Walbro SDC service manual. Is that pretty much everything that is available for these saws? Before I get into this saw is there anything else special that I may need to know or known problems?
Thanks!
Mark
Ginger15
ArboristSite Guru
So I just installed a new carb kit in my 1-62. It still doesnt seem to want to idle correctly or take full throttle. What are the H-L screw settings for the HL63D
Ginger15
ArboristSite Guru
Well I found the spark plug loose, and its still leaking fuel majorly into the airbox. Can't see where from. I'm stumped at this point. It was leaking prior to the carb kit as well. But not this bad.
happysaws
Addicted to ArboristSite
Take the carb back apart and double-check the inlet needle for dirt, and the inlet lever for the correct settings.
Ginger15
ArboristSite Guru
I think it might be the cork gasket at the inlet. It didnt fit very well. I'll swap it for the old one and hope it holds. The kit I ordered didnt come with a new fuel screen. Weird. Hence why the new gasket didnt fit very well. The old screen was wider than the new gasket so there was overlapping.
Was warm enough yesterday to open up the garage and get a second coat of paint on most of my SP81 parts. Wasn't sure about the tank paint scheme and just primed it while rooting around for pics. Most of what I found seemed to indicate a black tank/handle and air box cover as did the b/w pics on Acres and the IPL. So black it is even though I also ran across a scheme that had the bottom half of the tank and the handle being yellow. Another 24 hours of drying (and another warm day) and I'll clear coat a few light layers and call the paint job a finished rattle can special. Still waiting on the decal from Sugar Creek.
After looking at the cylinder closely and discovering a couple of small verticals above the ports, I decided to just re-assemble the short block with the existing rings and see if I can get any type of reasonable compression test results clamping it in a vise and using a drill to spin it over a few times. Haven't tried that particular method before but have heard of guys saying it works. Guess I'll find out. But those scratches worry me a little..., to the point that I'm not sure how much new rings may help, though the end gap on the rings I have is quite excessive by most standards, too.
So I have the oil pump spring clip and new gasket courtesy of Mark and was just getting ready to put the oiler back together and ran across what appears to be a fairly solve-able problem (and I assume a common one) of a hole through the tank where a guide pin threaded into the pump body would be, but the pin needs to be removed so both spring clip tabs can fit into their respective holes on the pump. I don't see the threaded pin in any of the IPL's I checked, btw, and also wonder why the hole goes all the way through the tank in the first place unless it could be an additional vent that would otherwise have one of the small bearings in it. I suppose the little brass cups that come with the spring clip kit would suffice to seal the opening, but I don't have those as the clip Mark sent me was one of the fabs from Steve NW WI, not the OEM version. Anyway, here are a coupla pics showing what I'm talking about. Seems like a glob of JB or maybe even Dirko would do the trick. Also, what's the significance of the sleeve for the bolt that holds the pump? Mine was missing when I pulled the pump.
As usual, TIA for any enlightenment.
After looking at the cylinder closely and discovering a couple of small verticals above the ports, I decided to just re-assemble the short block with the existing rings and see if I can get any type of reasonable compression test results clamping it in a vise and using a drill to spin it over a few times. Haven't tried that particular method before but have heard of guys saying it works. Guess I'll find out. But those scratches worry me a little..., to the point that I'm not sure how much new rings may help, though the end gap on the rings I have is quite excessive by most standards, too.
So I have the oil pump spring clip and new gasket courtesy of Mark and was just getting ready to put the oiler back together and ran across what appears to be a fairly solve-able problem (and I assume a common one) of a hole through the tank where a guide pin threaded into the pump body would be, but the pin needs to be removed so both spring clip tabs can fit into their respective holes on the pump. I don't see the threaded pin in any of the IPL's I checked, btw, and also wonder why the hole goes all the way through the tank in the first place unless it could be an additional vent that would otherwise have one of the small bearings in it. I suppose the little brass cups that come with the spring clip kit would suffice to seal the opening, but I don't have those as the clip Mark sent me was one of the fabs from Steve NW WI, not the OEM version. Anyway, here are a coupla pics showing what I'm talking about. Seems like a glob of JB or maybe even Dirko would do the trick. Also, what's the significance of the sleeve for the bolt that holds the pump? Mine was missing when I pulled the pump.
As usual, TIA for any enlightenment.
Acorn - that appears to be the AF for the 600 Series McCulloch saws (605, 610, 650, 655,etc.)
Ginger - I expect you will find the problem is with the gasket and the fuel strainer cover. There were several different designs on different HL carburetors and the parts are not all the same.
Poge - JB or Dirko if you feel less positive about sealing it. I think the sleeve (91774) was only used on the automatic oil pumps with the hard plastic body so you aren't missing anything with the metal one.
Mark
Ginger - I expect you will find the problem is with the gasket and the fuel strainer cover. There were several different designs on different HL carburetors and the parts are not all the same.
Poge - JB or Dirko if you feel less positive about sealing it. I think the sleeve (91774) was only used on the automatic oil pumps with the hard plastic body so you aren't missing anything with the metal one.
Mark
Thanks, Mark. Will proceed accordingly..., probably with JB for the hole since I also need to secure a bar stud while I'm in the neighborhood.
I gather the spring positioning is rather arbitrary? Doesn't seem like very much tension is obtained and it would be prone to becoming dislodged. An 1/8 of an inch longer would be a much more rigid solution.
The OEM material is a bit more springy. Make sure you have it firmly wedged in there and the metal at the top will dig in just a bit to keep in in place. I would say press again jut above the centerline of the clip to try and gain some additional wedge and bite.
Mark
Mark
Ginger15
ArboristSite Guru
I put the old gasket in, will see if that remedies it. But the carb was leaking before(unsure from where) so....well see. I just have to tighten the bolts and then start it. Anyone have the old gasket if mine doesnt hold?
This particular stock just bends, or more accurately, collapses when attempting to wedge it into position. Tim suggested trying a piece of steel pallet strapping as another possible alternative material when the subject was discussed a week or so ago. Since I now understand the concept and objective, I may give that a shot..., though will try one more time after putting this piece in the press and reversing it in position to maybe re-gain enough rigidity to serve the purpose somewhat. The gasket all by itself is a huge improvement, so I'm not complaining!
ChipsFlyin
ArboristSite Guru
A little bit of tinkering and the 797 is a runner! I can believe this saw. Unless the sprocket was replaced there is hardly any wear.
I try to figure things out and do quite a bit of searching and cross referencing before asking questions.
Sorry in advance for asking so much.
I figured out the chain - .404 was obvious. But, the 408 on the driver had me stumped until I found this on another forum.
"The Mac method of coding chain is easy to read,
400 = 404 pitch x 050
408 = 404 pitch x 058
403 = 404 pitch x 063"
The cutters on the chain are stamped SPEED 30. Was wondering about the manufacture. I see McCulloch did their own chains but also see Oregon as a potential maker for McCulloch.
The bar total length is 31 1/2 " stamped P/N 63561 on one side and 54L8 made in Canada ( Windsor? )on the other. What is the actual description for the bar size? 27",28", 30"...
Is this the correct bar mount?
Carlton 41
Oregon D276
Windsor TMX
GB MA
The most important question
Doe anyone know where I can get a fuel cap valve ( #53766A)?
Thanks!
Mark
I try to figure things out and do quite a bit of searching and cross referencing before asking questions.
Sorry in advance for asking so much.
I figured out the chain - .404 was obvious. But, the 408 on the driver had me stumped until I found this on another forum.
"The Mac method of coding chain is easy to read,
400 = 404 pitch x 050
408 = 404 pitch x 058
403 = 404 pitch x 063"
The cutters on the chain are stamped SPEED 30. Was wondering about the manufacture. I see McCulloch did their own chains but also see Oregon as a potential maker for McCulloch.
The bar total length is 31 1/2 " stamped P/N 63561 on one side and 54L8 made in Canada ( Windsor? )on the other. What is the actual description for the bar size? 27",28", 30"...
Is this the correct bar mount?
Carlton 41
Oregon D276
Windsor TMX
GB MA
The most important question
Doe anyone know where I can get a fuel cap valve ( #53766A)?
Thanks!
Mark
brandonstc6
Addicted to ArboristSite
Does anyone know the cylinder bore size of a Mcculloch MC75 cart motor. Cylinder part number 47873B.
Thanks
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