McCulloch Chain Saws

[Mac 6-10]

since we're all about destroying 10-series lately, how's this for a ruined one?

 

[heimannm]

Still cannot access the site via computer, any suggestions for getting rid of the link?

Mark

 

[watsonr]

Still cannot access the site via computer, any suggestions for getting rid of the link?

Mark

Disable Javascript in the settings of your browser

 

[rwoods]

Change Internet Explorer to Mozilla Firefox and run No Scripts. Ron

 

[Steve NW WI]

Change Internet Explorer to Mozilla Firefox and run No Scripts. Ron

Yup, what Ron said. I have No Script only blocking a couple pages (Link$$$$ and one other that was coming up during the first hack), everything works normally, no missing buttons, etc.

Lemme disable it and take a couple screen shots to show how simple it is.

Get Firefox (free) here: Mozilla

Get NoScript (also free) here: https://addons.mozilla.org/En-us/firefox/addon/noscript/

Let me take a screenshot and show how simple it works. The bug is gone at the moment, so it doesn't show up in the list, but any page you want blocked, just click the NoScript button and disable it, then reload the page. Done.

 

[watsonr]

since we're all about destroying 10-series lately, how's this for a ruined one?

View attachment 316540

Lets see some more of that saw

 

[Mac 6-10]

Lets see some more of that saw

[video=youtube_share;Q6baCS4Etrw]http://youtu.be/Q6baCS4Etrw[/video]




This started as a way to find an air filter for it when another member said to run a k&n on it. i thought for awhile and said ok why not. i found a velocity stack/filter kit on ebay for 20 shipped. i then had to bore the center to 7/8" for the sdc and had to get some 10/24x2.5" screws. while i had it apart i noticed the spacer on the cylinder intake was about 1/3rd the size the cylinder port was. so i found a spacer from a pro mac 555 that was fully open and unrestricted. once i got it installed i said this needs something else. lets paint the shroud metalic red like the Mc101's for the hell of it and put some pro mac 805 choke and oil buttons for some more color. the saw has 145 psi compression and is a good runner.

all of this just because i needed an air filter!

 

[crane]

super 250 or just a 250

hi all,
was searching back thru the posts here looking to get some info on a saw I have had kicking around in the corner for a long while now. It was drop off freebie, and like I said, it has been lurking in the corner with a 1-41 for a long time. Near as I can tell the stroke is 1.5"(I get 1.47-1.48". it's tough to be accurate). that's close, but not a stretch from the 1.375" of the std250. Air cover appears right, wrap handle, but I can't make heads or tails of the stampings underneath. Hoping someone here could help break it down. Acres lists 2 different 250's and 2 different super 250's. My mac IPL's are no help either as they list early and late productions, but none of the prefix's they list or production numbers appear on this saw.

Thoughts??

Drew

 

[crane]

Guess I should mention that I've been gone for a while...............seems rude of me to show up all of a sudden and beg for help.

To show my respect, here is a pic of the flag pole I welded up on my driveway. 33' up there at the top................yeah, it's a Mac!!! A running 1-10. Put it on a double bearing, so it swings with the wind. It follows the flags around with the wind change. The saw ran, but was rough, had some broken parts, thought what the heck. Always wanted something a little different for the top of my pole...............now I got it.


Drew
(I'm gonna get flamed in the Remington thread for this:cool2

 

[Warped5]

Hi Drew - Nice clean saw you have there. I'm liking that flag pole, too .... as well as the building behind it. But anyway, about the 250 .... I can't locate my casting number sheet, so I'll go with what I know. Sometimes an S250 will have a plastic sawdust screen on the recoil. Your saw has the rubber handle grip like an S250 would, along with the full-wrap. Another clue is the oil pump .. an S250 has an automatic pump and the 250 has a manual one. Get a flashlight and see which one's in the fuel tank.

If it is indeed an S250, don't forget to post it up in the Super 250 thread that Randy Mac started.

PM me if you need an IPL, I'll need your email address.

Good luck!

 

[ethar]

Well believe I have the fuel system issue fixed on the 380. No more detonation at high rpm. Full rebuild with the updated needle seat. Now onto the oiling issue thought I had it fixed it was fixed but now it wont oil again so prob more trash in the system. Is there a way to convert to a 250 auto type oiler.

 

[Mr. Bow Saw]

hi all,
was searching back thru the posts here looking to get some info on a saw I have had kicking around in the corner for a long while now. It was drop off freebie, and like I said, it has been lurking in the corner with a 1-41 for a long time. Near as I can tell the stroke is 1.5"(I get 1.47-1.48". it's tough to be accurate). that's close, but not a stretch from the 1.375" of the std250. Air cover appears right, wrap handle, but I can't make heads or tails of the stampings underneath. Hoping someone here could help break it down. Acres lists 2 different 250's and 2 different super 250's. My mac IPL's are no help either as they list early and late productions, but none of the prefix's they list or production numbers appear on this saw.

Thoughts??

Drew

Yes 62481 is a Super 250

 

[Gearhead1]

I have two late production regular 250's with 62481 stamped in the crankcase.

 

[heimannm]

Phone option is working again, not sure when I will get to try the computer again but thanks for the suggestions. Not much saw material to add, but I have seen a lot of trees and a lot of firewood (boiler fuel) here in Brazil.

Later,

Mark

 

[crane]

Is the 11 4 64 a mfg date code? I.E Nov 4 1964, or 11 march 1964? I read earlier in this thread that the 250's had a s/n tag attached infront of the top of the oil tank. I see no evidence that such a tag was ever on this saw, but I asume that the s/n, prefix and assembly numbers would have been on that tag.
I'm glad that it looks to be a super..............know it was one of RandyMacs favorite saws.

 

[Gearhead1]

The later 250's and all the Super 250 saws had the metal i.d. tag on the oil tank, while the early 250's did not.

 

[Eccentric]

hi all,
was searching back thru the posts here looking to get some info on a saw I have had kicking around in the corner for a long while now. It was drop off freebie, and like I said, it has been lurking in the corner with a 1-41 for a long time. Near as I can tell the stroke is 1.5"(I get 1.47-1.48". it's tough to be accurate). that's close, but not a stretch from the 1.375" of the std250. Air cover appears right, wrap handle, but I can't make heads or tails of the stampings underneath. Hoping someone here could help break it down. Acres lists 2 different 250's and 2 different super 250's. My mac IPL's are no help either as they list early and late productions, but none of the prefix's they list or production numbers appear on this saw.

Thoughts??

Drew

As Gearhead mentioned, look for the small stamped MN/SN tag on the oil tank top. A Super 250 will have a 600100 model #, with a 12 or A12 serial # prefix. A 'regular' 250 will unfortunately have the same 600100 model # (thanks for the confusion McCulloch), but a different SN prefix. Of course, that tag is only held down with a screw so it could have been swapped....

Flywheel cover is 'wrong' for a Super-250, as it has the 'side' kill switch. Super 250's have the 'top' kill switch. This could also have been swapped. I swapped this style of cover onto my Super 250, as well as a 650 that I used to own (650's also have the 'top switch' covers), as I prefer the 'side' style kill switch. More robust and reliable. No stupid fragile wire between the switch and the coil...

AF cover is of course right for a S-250, but could easily have been swapped. Same with the rear grip and the full-wrap handlebar.

The 1.5"-ish stroke you meausred means it's an 87cc saw. That engine could be from a 300, 380, 380A, S-250, 1-52,1-53, 650, 660, or 440. A 'regular' 250 has a 1.375" stroke like you stated.

That block # is strange. Super 250's either have no block number stamp, or have 83830. 62481 is the block number for a 'regular' 250, but your stroke measurement rules that out. You could have a Super 250 that was mistamped. That's entirely possible, as we've seen some really strange/messed up McCulloch block stampings. My theory is that the guy responsible for stamping blocks at McCulloch was some strung out, drunken nephew of R.P. McCulloch who only kept his job because he was family.....

Look at the clutch. If it's held onto the crankshaft with a nut, then it's an 87cc saw. If the clutch hub is threaded directly onto the crank (with a cast in 'hex' section for a wrench/socket), then it's an 80cc saw (and most likely a 'regular' 250). There is ONE exception to that McRule however. If the engine was taken from a 650/660 gear drive, then it will be 87cc...............................despite the threaded crank/clutch. For some reason, McCulloch used the threaded clutch/crank setup on those two gear drives. They're the only 87cc Macs with that crank (which is a unique part.............being threaded with a 1.5" stroke). All the other threaded clutch saw cranks had a 1.375" stroke...

That starter housing came from a blue Target branded cutoff saw. With that and all the other obviously swapped parts................you most likely have a McFrankensaw. Possibly assembled in some saw shop from McLeftovers. Basically impossible to identify it with 100% certainty. Doesn't make it a bad saw at all though. My S-250 came to me with a metal starter screen like yours. Was probably swapped on (supposedly all the S-250's had plastic screens, with the possible exception of the early 'yellow top' ones). I prefer the metal screen anyways.

 

[Vermonster]

Sp60

Put the old SP60 http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw-stickies/71126-1451.htm#post4512726 through some white ash yesterday. Wow!! That thing is a beast. Wicked powerful and well, just a wee bit heavy. It's a torque monster. 20" Total 2 bar and a loop of 3/8, .050 Carlton full chisel really throws the chips.
Oh yeah, I forgot to mention the sound of it. LOUD!! It reminds me of a 250cc motocross bike from the same era.

She's a runner again. Thanks Ted.

A couple SP60 questions:

1. Does it have an auto oiler with manual override, or just manual oiler? It's hard to tell as I assumed it was manual only and used it as such for felling/bucking up an ash.

2. Can I run the same fuel/oil mix (50:1) that I've been running in my stihl and husky?

Carl

 

[Warped5]

She's a runner again. Thanks Ted.

A couple SP60 questions:

1. Does it have an auto oiler with manual override, or just manual oiler? It's hard to tell as I assumed it was manual only and used it as such for felling/bucking up an ash.

2. Can I run the same fuel/oil mix (50:1) that I've been running in my stihl and husky?

Carl

You're welcome, Carl.

1. Yes.
2. Yes. But my personal preference is 40:1.

 

[heimannm]

Tried the script disable on the computer, eliminated the linkbucks link but took me to the register screen (not the log on screen), do I really need to go all the way back to being a newb again?

From my phone

Mark