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fossil said:
Funny you should post that. I just had that happen yesterday on a Solo 680. Idled somewhat erratically for a few minutes and then shut off. Very hard to start without priming. It did 4 stroke at WOT
My air leak was between the carb adapter and the cylinder. A big leak as well.

Hope that helps.
Click to expand...
I'll have to dig into it a bit farther to see what I can find...
Thanks much!
 
If it fires back up and runs for a couple seconds on a prime before it dies again that should minimize (but not necessarily eliminate) the possibility of an ignition issue. If it'll fire and idle on choke after it dies warmed up, that may indicate an air leak. (Make sure the carb bolts didn't maybe loosen up during your cutting session?)

If it doesn't fire on a prime, you may want to investigate the condition of the points and maybe swap in another condenser even if you're showing spark. See if your plug is wet or dry after pulling it over a few times.

And I think I'd double check the cap vent (or crack the cap slightly to see if it'll idle that way) and maybe even simply change the fuel filter to see if that helps (if you have good spark, of course).

I just went through an idling issue with one of my 10-10's. Couldn't get the L dialed in for the life of me. Replaced the fuel filter and it'll start with one pull now and purrs like an angry little (yellow) kitten.

'Course a vac/pressure test will tell you a lot if you have the means to do one. Could also check the fuel line and tank for integrity along with the carb.
 
The one on the Solo is really strange. The metal inserts in the carb adapter sit a bit proud of the gasket surface on the cylinder side. I put a little Motoseal on the gasket and if that doesn't work I guess I'll have to double up the gasket material.
 
PogoInTheWoods said:
If it fires back up and runs for a couple seconds on a prime before it dies again that should minimize (but not necessarily eliminate) the possibility of an ignition issue. If it'll fire and idle on choke after it dies warmed up, that may indicate an air leak. (Make sure the carb bolts didn't maybe loosen up during your cutting session?)

If it doesn't fire on a prime, you may want to investigate the condition of the points and maybe swap in another condenser even if you're showing spark. See if your plug is wet or dry after pulling it over a few times.

And I think I'd double check the cap vent (or crack the cap slightly to see if it'll idle that way) and maybe even simply change the fuel filter to see if that helps (if you have good spark, of course).

I just went through an idling issue with one of my 10-10's. Couldn't get the L dialed in for the life of me. Replaced the fuel filter and it'll start with one pull now and purrs like an angry little (yellow) kitten.

'Course a vac/pressure test will tell you a lot if you have the means to do one. Could also check the fuel line and tank for integrity along with the carb.
Click to expand...

Carb is good, as is the fuel line. Fuel filter is new. Also tried running it with the fuel cap loose. Nothing helped.

Just finished ordering a set of NOS points, the set I took out looked questionable...
 
Walter Glover said:
Fellas, anyone here sleeve a cylinder to get it back in service?
Thinking that direction currently
Click to expand...
Someone on here has done it i just cant remember who. Cant imagine it being cheep tho what about rechromeing it? 400odd papers here for a rechrome so that aint cheap either. If i remember it right he went with a sleeve cos he had the machinery to do it.
 
PogoInTheWoods said:
This is from 'The Big List' for the 10 series Macs. Looks like you have it covered, but I question the 6118 instead of 6119 for the 110260. Others may chime in to clarify.

-F/W seal: 61618. Most saws. National 471551.

-PTO seal: 110260. SKF 6119 double lip or SKF 6120 single lip. Poulan 530019097. National 253747. (6118 not listed for this particular application)

'Course there's plenty of NOS sources for about the same price as well.

Looks like you have your list in order otherwise. This guy is a good source for gaskets. Uses high quality materials and is reasonably priced. Fast and free shipping, too.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Mc...400?_trksid=p2349526.m4383.l4275.c10#viTabs_0

As for remembering where you may have run across pertinent information in a given thread (or an entire thread for that matter), they have recently added a 'bookmark' feature as an indexing option for that very purpose..., to bookmark stuff you'd never find again in a million years unless you went back through every thread you've ever read that may have mentioned 'McCulloch oil seal cross-ref part numbers'. Now you can just save the post or thread as a bookmark that's located in your profile for future reference or inserting into a post or other thread by simply using the 'Insert Bookmarks' feature while composing a new post. It'll take you to your list where you can select the reference you want to insert and there ya go. Very cool feature that may take a while to catch on, but well worth exploring for those who haven't done so yet.
Click to expand...

I've used this website to cross reference seals, and it has worked great so far. http://www2.chicago-rawhide.com/popup_parts_lookup_457012.htm

You just put in the part number, whether it be Mcculloch, Homelite, Pioneer, and it will give you a cross to a current SKF seal. Everything i have used it for has worked or matched what others have crossed them to.
 
Brian, how tricky was getting the ports cut and then lined up when you slid the liner home?
Finding suitable liner material sppears to be a challenge. Need a section of drill press column
 
Not an easy job. It's a lot of cutting and cut a little and measure, then cut a little more and measure again. I think rechroming would be a whole lot better way to go for me. With an open cylinder it is a pain in the butt to do I would not even try with a closed cylinder. Now a SP125c you could do because it has welch plugs where the ports are and not much more than boring the hole.

I know the sleeve from LA Sleeve for a 101B is about 125.00

Brian
 
Yea rechrome seems a hole lot easyer. Soo what 10 series jugs interchange with what bottom halves? Sorry for the dumb questions just tryna get my head around these things.. how much difference is there with the 600 series cylinders?
 
PogoInTheWoods said:
Cool. And duly bookmarked. I know their hard copy catalog has been frequently referred to in the past.

Do you happen to know of a similar link for bearings?
Click to expand...

No, although i have looked, i haven't looked real hard. I actually stumbled across that one day while looking for info on seals.
 

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