Most useless feature on a chainsaw

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As someone who has fallen on a running saw(luckily without incident) the throttle lockout makes sense to me.

I never had an issue with flippy caps until I had one pop open and drain the oil rez all over my leg and boot. Definitely a solution to a problem that didn't exist...classic German over-engineering.
 
I seen a lot of false thinking take on a life of its own . One example always heard coke was bad pop . Back to the topic try stuff an make up your own mind if you need to tape or grind drill or whatever . Just never agree until you try it
 
I guess there isn't a "solution looking for a problem" until you find a twisty top that some ape twisted on too tight and your scrench has chewed up the slot in the cap or you just happened to NOT go to the woods it's a vice grip. Some people don't have the hand strength to lossen some quality "ape work".

Lots of "hate looking for landing pads" if you ask me.
 
I have seen it from both sides of the fence I have to say I have seen many of the screw in caps that were broken when people used a scrench to over tighten the cap and even had broken flippy caps bought in for repair.. in most cases operator error is the root cause. I think of it as progress. For the few that hate the caps the overwhelming majority use them just fine with no issues. I would expect more of the tree companies having issues with the flippies but it seems its the homeowners that do. I do enjoy when someone comes in looking for a saw and then tells me of the hate of the flippy cap. I walk them over to the saws and in 3 mins they are curious why all the hate.

Flippy caps never dump oil on you in the showroom. There's no oil in the tank. I think casual sawyers are just not in the habit of using them and have more problems than the pros who use them constantly.

While it may be true that a ten year old can do it, if a five year old can screw on the old style cap, the flippy cap is not easier to use.

I have adapted to flippy caps, but I should not have to. Designed well, they should be intuitive.

Just one opinion.
 
I fail to see the problem with either the Master Control Lever/Switch or the flippy caps. I never have understood the big deal made about either one of these. With the caps, you simply need to pay attention when installing them. I like them.
Brad when the shape of the tank or cap itself changes over time you may think different about the stupid flip caps. And I'd like to see you use the oil cap on a ms211 Nik had fun with that one. Sorry the Stihl flip caps are absurd.

I'm not a fan of over complicated master controls on any saw, give me an on off switch and choke lever and be done with it.[emoji9]
 
It is easy to say that a safety feature is useless until you run into a situation where you need it. Hell, cutting cookies ya may as well strip all the features off the saw

Fixed it for you. If you do professional forestry work, safety features are cheap insurance. Cutting cookies and chunking up logs for firewood is a reltively safe task for anyone with common sense. Climbing through the brush/ over logs with a running saw and or working on uneven/ loose/ slippery terrain is a different story.

That being said, the most useless feature on a saw has to be flippy caps. Flippy caps are :dumb2::dumb2::dumb2::dumb2::dumb2::dumb2::dumb2::dumb2:
The newer dolmar caps and the 2 series husky caps are damn good designs. You can remove the caps with a scrench, without much chance of breaking the cap
 
Flippy cap hate, I just don't get it

Commercial tree company, virtually every saw and every hedge cutter and pole saw has flippy caps, I have not heard one person moan about them or seen one go wrong in over 18 months and the boys beat the crap out of everything mechanical as if it's a challenge

Sent from my SM-G900I using Tapatalk
 
Okay, I think I can shed some light on the flippy cap issue as I own one of the very first flippy cap saws.....and the caps on these first-run units are terrible. Here's why: Both caps on my saw (being the first year for flippys) fit the body of the opening just a tad too tight. So, when the cap is inserted (fully inserted as designed) and then turned clockwise.....the internal cam system within the body of the cap (that squished and expands the o-ring seal) moves BEFORE the body of the cap rotates in the opening to interlock with the tank. The result is that the cap is locked into place by the squished oring pressing outward in the tank opening ONLY and the locking dogs do not engage the tank. The result.....the cap on the gas tank holds until the saw is shaken during cranking when pressure in the tank blows the cap (and all the gasoline mix) out of the opening soaking the operators (my) pants with fuel. The oil tank cap usually stays in place and just leaks oil.
Now, I bought new caps thinking that a new cap design would fix the problem, but the brand new caps do the same thing. It's a problem with the tank opening size of these first-run MS series saws. So, I just use my small flat screw driver to hammer the caps clockwise engaging the dogs into the tank bodys first, then twist the bail clockwise to lock and seal. Have not had one single problem with my flippy's since I began doing them this way. I have run newer saws and they don't have this problem anymore.
 
I guess there isn't a "solution looking for a problem" until you find a twisty top that some ape twisted on too tight and your scrench has chewed up the slot in the cap or you just happened to NOT go to the woods it's a vice grip.
OK, so how would the flippy cap have fared if that same ape had at it? Granted, you wouldn't have the problem of it being too tight to get off, but there likely wouldn't be much left of it!

BTW, I always wear a multi-tool when I'm working at home.
 
Okay, I think I can shed some light on the flippy cap issue as I own one of the very first flippy cap saws.....and the caps on these first-run units are terrible. Here's why: Both caps on my saw (being the first year for flippys) fit the body of the opening just a tad too tight. So, when the cap is inserted (fully inserted as designed) and then turned clockwise.....the internal cam system within the body of the cap (that squished and expands the o-ring seal) moves BEFORE the body of the cap rotates in the opening to interlock with the tank. The result is that the cap is locked into place by the squished oring pressing outward in the tank opening ONLY and the locking dogs do not engage the tank. The result.....the cap on the gas tank holds until the saw is shaken during cranking when pressure in the tank blows the cap (and all the gasoline mix) out of the opening soaking the operators (my) pants with fuel. The oil tank cap usually stays in place and just leaks oil.
Now, I bought new caps thinking that a new cap design would fix the problem, but the brand new caps do the same thing. It's a problem with the tank opening size of these first-run MS series saws. So, I just use my small flat screw driver to hammer the caps clockwise engaging the dogs into the tank bodys first, then twist the bail clockwise to lock and seal. Have not had one single problem with my flippy's since I began doing them this way. I have run newer saws and they don't have this problem anymore.
I get it now, that's pretty annoying

Sent from my SM-G900I using Tapatalk
 
OK, so how would the flippy cap have fared if that same ape had at it? Granted, you wouldn't have the problem of it being too tight to get off, but there likely wouldn't be much left of it!

BTW, I always wear a multi-tool when I'm working at home.

Anybody with a reasonable amount of sense would not be able to find a way to "over screw" a flippy cap to begin with. ( Well anyone that operates REAL saws anyway)
[ insert favorite smilie here]

Multi-tool Schmulti-tool....Damn engineers always trying to "Multi"-something just to sell another poorly engineered tool to begin with.... but don't worry...us salesmen will still be forced to "sell" your fruitless lacks of labor.... [ another smilie too]

Hope you figured out by now I'm just yankin yer chain buddy. We gotta meet up soon. Maybe milk shakes over near ABI-LVI. Let me know if your ever over in Clinton, I'll buy the pizza. (make it too if ya want)
 
Decompression valve on the MS261. Primer/purge bulbs.

1a51be9741f3af55a2e8b373cfdf4c30.jpg
 
Okay, I think I can shed some light on the flippy cap issue as I own one of the very first flippy cap saws.....and the caps on these first-run units are terrible. Here's why: Both caps on my saw (being the first year for flippys) fit the body of the opening just a tad too tight. So, when the cap is inserted (fully inserted as designed) and then turned clockwise.....the internal cam system within the body of the cap (that squished and expands the o-ring seal) moves BEFORE the body of the cap rotates in the opening to interlock with the tank. The result is that the cap is locked into place by the squished oring pressing outward in the tank opening ONLY and the locking dogs do not engage the tank. The result.....the cap on the gas tank holds until the saw is shaken during cranking when pressure in the tank blows the cap (and all the gasoline mix) out of the opening soaking the operators (my) pants with fuel. The oil tank cap usually stays in place and just leaks oil.
Now, I bought new caps thinking that a new cap design would fix the problem, but the brand new caps do the same thing. It's a problem with the tank opening size of these first-run MS series saws. So, I just use my small flat screw driver to hammer the caps clockwise engaging the dogs into the tank bodys first, then twist the bail clockwise to lock and seal. Have not had one single problem with my flippy's since I began doing them this way. I have run newer saws and they don't have this problem anymore.
Somebody else would have to own that one if it was mine.

My 261 & 461 works just fine.
 
Some of my older Echo's have the oil/gas fill caps on top of the saw under the brake handle. Impossible to fill tanks without spilling gas or oil.
 
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