ms 290?

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

jonsereds49sp

ArboristSite Lurker
Joined
Feb 23, 2009
Messages
48
Reaction score
3
Location
ny
I've finaly gotten tiered of my old saw and its time to upgrade. In several of the forums I've heard people tell others not to buy a 290.. why? I'm a college student home for the summer and I'm running a small landscaping business and very rarely need a saw, but when I do I need it to be dependable. Money is a very big issue, but I definitely want to buy new. $400 is the top of my price range, any suggestions?
 
The 290 is not a pro saw, it's a clamshell design. If you're going to use it professionally, and want a good saw, most people will recommend a saw from the PRO line (260, 361, 440, 460, etc...). If it were me, (and If you could spend a little more) I'd buy a ms260 before a ms290. Wait, I already did! :)

Basically, the engine is just about impossible to tear down on these clamshell saws without completely disassembling the entire saw. On a PRO saw, the cylinder can be pulled in a matter of minutes.

That's the basic difference, I'm sure others will chime in with more.
 
MS 270 STIHL WOOD BOSS® Chain Saw Specifications
DISPLACEMENT 50.0 cc (3.05 cu. in.)
ENGINE POWER 2.5 kW (3.4 bhp)
WEIGHT
(powerhead only) 5.3 kg (11.7 lbs)
FUEL CAPACITY 520 cc (17.6 oz.)
CHAIN OIL CAPACITY 280 cc (9.5 oz.)
OILOMATIC® CHAIN .325" RMC3
RECOMMENDED
RANGE OF
GUIDE BAR
LENGTHS 40 to 50 cm
(16" to 20")
STIHL ROLLOMATIC®



MS 290 STIHL FARM BOSS® Specifications
DISPLACEMENT 56.5 cc (3.45 cu. in.)
ENGINE POWER 2.8 kW (3.8 bhp)
WEIGHT
(powerhead only) 5.9 kg (13.0 lbs.)
FUEL CAPACITY 560 cc (18.9 oz.)
CHAIN OIL CAPACITY 330 cc (11.2 oz.)
OILOMATIC® CHAIN .325" RMC3
RECOMMENDED
RANGE OF
GUIDE BAR
LENGTHS 40 to 50 cm
(16" to 20")
STIHL ROLLOMATIC®


Slightly less power, a whole lot less weight.To me the 270 handles better too.

But go to a dealer and try them both.
 
The 290 is a good saw. It is not the fastest, lightest, or most powerful in it size range it is however well built and dependable.

It is also the only one that has such an enormous amount of OEM new and used parts, aftermarket new and used parts readily available. It is one of the least expensive newer saws to repair because of the volume of units that Stihl has sold.

If it fits your needs and you have a good dealer then it is a good choice.

There are options from every brand in that price range so shop around your area for other dealers.

The engine design issue is moot if you are in the -$400.00 range with exception of a few manufacturers. Shop around and see what is available for less than $400.00 in your area.
Check the dealers out with some of your local contacts. Your relationship with the dealer is more important than the saw in the $400.00 price range.
 
Last edited:
sounds like the 290 might be a good way to go.. Power or speed is not the most important thing, I just need a saw that will start whenever I need it to and last a long time.
 
don't listen to the nay sayers, the 290 is a fine firewood saw,good power, very dependable and will last a long time. the only downside is it is a bit heavier than it's pro equivalents.
 
both saw cost about the same have about the same power.

research the 270 290 on stihl usa and make the decision for yourself.

also handle both saws.

both are good saws, just one stands out as alittle better
 
MS 290 reliability / spark plug wire problem

I am a mere occasional user, and I like my MS 290, but I just finished troubleshooting mine (wouldn't start after not having used it for about 6 months...)

I had left it drained and had run the fuel out of the carburator, my saw wouldn't even splutter when testing with a little bit of starter gas... Checked ignition coil gap, as well as plugging in a new plug and test pulling it - and was getting a good spark!

What was the problem? The boot of the spark plug wire has a wire that has a hook that is pushed into the spark plug wire and then twirled into a loop that will lock onto the spark plug, and its connection to the spark plug wire was bad!

It would apperantly touch "just right" when I slightly twisted it to plug into an "external" plug, but not make the right touch when plugged into the cylinder! I ended up re-attaching the boot/wire in a "new hole" and it appears to be fine for now. (I hope it will stay that way... Do you guys have any
alternative recommendation?)

Like I said... Other than this - and the "rotting" fuel line due to the E10 ethanol fuel, I really like my saw and think it will probably out-last me :)
 
I am a mere occasional user, and I like my MS 290, but I just finished troubleshooting mine (wouldn't start after not having used it for about 6 months...)

I had left it drained and had run the fuel out of the carburator, my saw wouldn't even splutter when testing with a little bit of starter gas... Checked ignition coil gap, as well as plugging in a new plug and test pulling it - and was getting a good spark!

What was the problem? The boot of the spark plug wire has a wire that has a hook that is pushed into the spark plug wire and then twirled into a loop that will lock onto the spark plug, and its connection to the spark plug wire was bad!

It would apperantly touch "just right" when I slightly twisted it to plug into an "external" plug, but not make the right touch when plugged into the cylinder! I ended up re-attaching the boot/wire in a "new hole" and it appears to be fine for now. (I hope it will stay that way... Do you guys have any
alternative recommendation?)

Like I said... Other than this - and the "rotting" fuel line due to the E10 ethanol fuel, I really like my saw and think it will probably out-last me :)

Either one of those problems would have nothing to do with the model of the saw. A pro saw coil wire is put together the same way.
 
If your not going to be cutting 5 cords plus a year then go get it. I have one and it's a great saw. It's not a PRO series saw and is not designed the same. I was talking to my dealer about these saws and being a clamshell design they have a hard time with overheating.
 
The 290 is not a pro saw, it's a clamshell design. If you're going to use it professionally, and want a good saw, most people will recommend a saw from the PRO line (260, 361, 440, 460, etc...). If it were me, (and If you could spend a little more) I'd buy a ms260 before a ms290. Wait, I already did! :)

Basically, the engine is just about impossible to tear down on these clamshell saws without completely disassembling the entire saw. On a PRO saw, the cylinder can be pulled in a matter of minutes.

That's the basic difference, I'm sure others will chime in with more.
This whole clam shell design thing is such a moot point. That design has proven itself over and over. The odds that someone will actually have to rebuild a 290/310/390 series saw, are probably 1 in a million.
I was talking to my dealer about these saws and being a clamshell design they have a hard time with overheating.
Never had a problem with that either.
 
Last edited:
I have a 029 that has been dependable for 5 years.
the reason i went stihl was my former employer(now retired and enjoying life) had his original saw which was i believe a 039 that was nearly 20 years old that still ran like a champ.
my saw had been sitting around only being run for an hour here and hour there. my mother in law had 5 trees fall from the exxesive rain we have had so i brought it over and thus far have put almost 5 tanks of gas through it. i cannnot speak highly enough of the mighty termite. take care of whichever saw you buy and you probably will never need another(want yes, need no)

unfortunatly the dealer i purchased from no longer services saws
 
This whole clam shell design thing is such a moot point. That design has proven itself over and over. The odds that someone will actually have to rebuild a 290/310/390 series saw, are probably 1 in a million.

You're probably right about most "someone's", but *I* did have to rebuild a 029 (Okay, I didn't HAVE to, I chose to), and it was a serious PITA compared to even a MS200t (which is also a pain).

(I just happened to buy one that had a cracked fuel line, and ran lean... I now know that I should have parted it out, because I don't think I'll make any money on it after putting a new engine in it.)

I agree, for the average chainsaw user, they are a fine saw. If, however, you use the hell out of it, and plan on servicing it, the design does not lend well to quick turnaround times.

'Nuff said??? :)
 
if you do decide to get a farmboss i think you would benefit with the 310 i think its a better value for power. i own one and used it to cut about 15 cord so far with a 25 inch bar and chain. it is heavy for its power but it sounds like for your uses it would never be worn out and would be a good choice. might also consider a used 026
 
Back
Top