MS 362 vs. MS 391

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I think that you will be happy with your new saw. I haven't used a 391, but wasn't impressed with the 039 that I ran. It ran well, but I didn't notice much difference (if any) over my 029 Super.
If that 361 is any comparison to my 360 in the power department, they are hot rods. I really like that size of a Pro series Stihl... If taken care of, that saw should last you the rest of your life.
Also sounds like you have one heck of an employer!
 
I think that you will be happy with your new saw. I haven't used a 391, but wasn't impressed with the 039 that I ran. It ran well, but I didn't notice much difference (if any) over my 029 Super.
If that 361 is any comparison to my 360 in the power department, they are hot rods. I really like that size of a Pro series Stihl... If taken care of, that saw should last you the rest of your life.
Also sounds like you have one heck of an employer!

The 361 actually should be "hotter" than the 360 - maybe not for max power, but it sure has a better top end! :)
 
Our local Ace has a Stihl Dealership and there is still a 361 on the shelf as well as a 390. I have been considering selling a couple saws and buying the 361 but can't quite bring myself to do it......:dizzy:
 
A three-week report on the MS 361...

I love this saw.

For the day-to-day, I've been running a 20" Stihl bar and chain, with work running from light felling, limbing and bucking to much more demanding snag clearing and large tree felling. For that, I've been running a Bailey's 28" Carlton bar and full-skip Oregon chain.

I work by myself 99% of the time, so I'm shy of pictures. I'll shoot some of the aftermath woodpile, but I am compelled to say, I love this saw. It seems to perform better every time I use it. I'm alternating chain loops between each bar, flipping bars, and running Stihl Ultra and bar oil exclusively, and maintaining absolute control over the pre-mix that's going into the saw, along with strict attention to maintaining the chains, tension, and other aspects.

It is a joy to cut with. I've been able to cut out and clear huge snags, fell any tree on the property that I need to, and this saw along with my vintage 011AVT are a perfect pair. I can use the small saw for limbing, and the MS 361 to do the rest of the work.

Thanks again to all for the help and positive advice.
 
Congrats on the fantastic deal on your 361.:clap: I've never tried a 28" bar on a stock 361. I wonder if the oiler can put out enough for a 28-incher. Have you noticed any blueing/heat marks?
 
Congrats on the fantastic deal on your 361.:clap: I've never tried a 28" bar on a stock 361. I wonder if the oiler can put out enough for a 28-incher. Have you noticed any blueing/heat marks?

So far, I've let the oiler set to the "E" (E-matic?) position, with the 28" bar/full skip chain in place. No bluing, or heat problems, and the saw is still throwing chips, not dust. That particular bar/chain combo is good for cutting through snags, which are dirty, and even without maxing the oiler up, shows no signs of too little oil.
 
So far, I've let the oiler set to the "E" (E-matic?) position, with the 28" bar/full skip chain in place. No bluing, or heat problems, and the saw is still throwing chips, not dust. That particular bar/chain combo is good for cutting through snags, which are dirty, and even without maxing the oiler up, shows no signs of too little oil.

Hey guy's, first post here but I had the same dilemma between the MS-362 vs the MS-391 and I made my choice for the 362. I bought it yesterday from a Pennsylvania dealer @ 10% off (after haggling) and tax exemption which equaled $629.00 but if I purchased the HP STIHL oil I could double the manufacturers warranty (STIHL gimmick, dealer participation only). Ehhh, it was $11.00 So that's what I did for a 6 pack and double the warranty. The wife wanted a new pair of safety glasses so it was $652.00 out the door said and done!

I fired it up today and ripped some "red oak" vertically (with the grain), about 16" across. It did OK but I was not impressed overall. Glad I didn't go with anything smaller to say the least! Personally I can't imagine the 391 having less power by feel, however, in terms of reliability/weight/width there is a significant difference! I can confirm the weight difference as well as the width. I held both in my hands and felt the weight of the 391 and 362. The 391 is definitely heavier and fatter (width), the 362 is lighter by feel and more slim by the eyeball (width), either-way it's noticeable at first glance and/or first contact! I wish dealers would let you try a saw like they let you drive a car....... Then we all would know from at least some experience what we need for our cutting style as well as our requirements!

Much like taking a pi$$, I don't let gravity do the job, I push a bit.....

When I stall the chain in anything, I get a little irritated. However, I've gone into "read oak" round about half throttle with my 362 and stalled the action, then pressed that play button a bit harder and she picked up instantly! Ya have to give credit to that! Nice saw all-in-all with it's bells and whistles, but I still want more power in the same weight range. The MAGNUM series is the next step up, but I'm really not that die hard, if ya know what I mean..... This is a very nice saw and I have no right to complain about it, however, for the money I could have gone lesser 391 with mods (free) and equaled the power with the same disappointment!

My 362 is running a 3/8 20" chain, and it does OK/well. For me personally, I want this weight and bar/chain but in a 7 -8 HP configuration. Double what I have should be about what I expect. So, am I just smokin crack or do you guys feel my pain?

Thank you,
t3t4
 
I wasn't impressed with mine the first day either. In fact, I lost some sleep.

Then, a funny thing happened about 10 or so tanks later: It kicked into another gear. It will happen to you too.

ps

Not sure of that half throttle thing. Either go all out or don't go out at all...
 
I wasn't impressed with mine the first day either. In fact, I lost some sleep.

Then, a funny thing happened about 10 or so tanks later: It kicked into another gear. It will happen to you too.

ps

Not sure of that half throttle thing. Either go all out or don't go out at all...

Well, I hope that mine picks up a bit, even though I probably have no right to complain. Just first impressions here, I was far from impressed! Maybe if I had never ran a saw before this thing it might seem like a monster such as an 025 compared to an 044 for example.

This 362 should be on the bleeding edge of that high side comparison without stepping into that weight/power range. Come this September I'll know better, I have a log length stack of wood (give or take) 14' tall to cut up/down for heat the next few years. Should be round about 7 - 9 cords. Maybe within this pile I can experience what you are talking about. And between you and I, I dang sure hope so!

If I had one major bit@h point to make at this point, it would be the air filter and all of it's plastic (I'm too cheap for good) methodology. At list price for this saw, I have a hard time swallowing the cheap air filter design! And too the air filter is set in quench tabs/spring tabs coupled to the filter basket. They fall off easily and the filter itself is difficult to remove! This SOB had better wake up for me, otherwise, you guys can snag a deal while I'm forced into the magnum range.....
 
Well, if you want 362 weight with 660 power, I would sell the saw and get a 562. Then get it ported and you will be getting there...(8hp ain't gonna happen from the 60cc range without a lot of work at the expense of durability)...I would guess a ported 562 is pushing 6hp...and don't run a 2 stroke at part-throttle for extended periods. Run it wide open or let it idle...
 
Well, if you want 362 weight with 660 power, I would sell the saw and get a 562. Then get it ported and you will be getting there...(8hp ain't gonna happen from the 60cc range without a lot of work at the expense of durability)...I would guess a ported 562 is pushing 6hp...and don't run a 2 stroke at part-throttle for extended periods. Run it wide open or let it idle...

:agree2:
 
A ported 362 wouldnt make a bad saw either. I know that a well broken in 362 witha muffler mod will flat out run. Still havent seen any vids of a 562 smoking a 362 and the 562 I've ran, though it was pretty much new and not broken in, would'nt run off and leave a broken in 362 by any means. It may be a few seconds faster in a cookie but I still like the 362.

Give it 25 tanks to really feel a difference in the power. Open up the muffler and you'll really enjoy it. Send it off to have it ported and it'll be all you need in a 60cc saw. JMO
 
I agree with Anthony, the 362 takes several tanks to break in and then a muffler mod will really wake it up. You guys with brand new saws just need to be patient, let them break in before you throw in the towel and do something stupid!

Steve
 
I agree with Anthony, the 362 takes several tanks to break in and then a muffler mod will really wake it up. You guys with brand new saws just need to be patient, let them break in before you throw in the towel and do something stupid!

Steve

Thanx for all the suggestion.

I did strongly consider the 562XP, but I'm just not much of a husky fan. They seem to flex and carry on a bit while the STIHL's just feels more rigid to me. Maybe the XP's are better, I couldn't say either way since I've never held one let alone run one. But anyway, I do cut wide open. It's just in this case I had very little to cut and a brand new saw sitting there staring at me saying come use me dangit. You know how it is..... I had nothing truly worthy of this saw to cut, so I used what little I did have somewhat inventively for the sake of testing out my new saw. I maybe ran 1/4 of a tank full with it and was out of things to cut.

What I'd like to experience and the reason I purchased this saw, is some of the big ole ugly trees/stumps that I keep getting every year it seems. The stuff that just laughs at a 16-18" saw. The kind of 50" trunks that swallow up an entire saw! I can't imagine going with less then what I have for spinning a 20" B&C. And I can see the need at least in my case to run a 25" B&C at times.

I'm not a logger or even a die hard woods man, but I do seem to get the kind of wood that makes me work just as hard at times. All in the name of heat, and cooking too. I'll have more to say once I have more trigger time on the 362 and more break in, but I was just surprised and disappointed the first time I stalled the chain while testing. I really wasn't pushing hard! However, it was a healthy chunk of read oak that I was ripping and you guys know how rock hard that stuff can be. On a side note however, do any of you guys know if performance aftermarket parts are available for the 362? I would entertain the idea of intake and exhaust mods but not so much on the internals. If I have to go that far it would make more sense to me to simply buy a bigger saw. I would think that putting this 362 in the 5HP range should be fairly easy. But then again, maybe not.

Thanks,
t3t4
 
Just bought the 362 last night

This is my first post here. I had seen this site a few years back and didn't pay much attention to it as I stopped working in the woods fulltime in 2004. I logged, did forest developement work, sold firewood, and spent a couple years as a forestry tech up to 04. I took a job as a counselor in 04 and really haven't dabbled too much in trees. I did a few logging jobs in 07-08 and still dink around with a little firewood from time to time. I also do the occasional tree removal job still too.
Well any ways we had a major wind storm here in northern Minnesota on July 3rd and suddenly found myself busy knockin trees again. So I put two and two together and bought a new splitter and saw. I have a free souce of wood in the Chippewa National Forest. I am Native and because most of my reservation lies within the Chippewa I am able to harvest any damaged timber that I want.
I am a Stihl guy. I still have an 044 and an 036. Both saws are at least fifteen years old. Nothing is wrong with either I just thought an upgrade would be nice. I have run all of the bigs at one time or another. Husky's, Jonseruds, Dolmars, and finally on to Stihls from about 1997 on. I chewed through at least 30 big saws from 1987 to 1997 when we started adding Stihls to our saw line up. Bigs saws to me were the 60 to 80 cc saws, pro saws. Stihls flat out handled the abuse we dished out. Hands down were just more durable than the other brands. Nothing wrong with the others. Heck I loved the 372 xp's, they were awesome saws. Infact some of my cutters were still having us buy them for them into the 2000's. We were probably averaging 40-50 thousands cords of mostly aspen from the mid ninties until I quit. The bulk of our wood was felled, limbed, and bucked with chainsaws. We added a feller buncher starting in 2000 and a loader with a slasher in 02.
Last week I was saw shopping and came across a the 391 for under $550 and nearly bought it. I decided to go home and do some checking on the internet to find out any reviews. Well I ran across quite a few threads on here that kept saying that the 362 was a better saw. I pulled the trigger and bought a 362 with an 18inch bar last night for $679. I decided to go with this saw as it is a pro model and it has a metal case vs. the plastic of the farm&ranch and home owner saws. I wouldn't have known this info if I hadnt seen this site. The price differance is piece of mind for me. I had a new 044 that was less than a week old that I ran over with a 648 John Deere. I only had to replace the bar, handle, and gas tank. The metal case saved the motor.
 
With the MS 362, Stihl offers a 59cc saw, rated at 4.6bhp, with the power-head weighing in at 13 lbs.

The mid-range MS 391 comes in at 64.1cc, 4.4bhp, and weighs in at 14.1 lbs., without the power-head.

I'm going in to the dealer tomorrow to talk about both saws - the price difference is approximately $125 (20" 3/8 bar/chain combo).

Most of the time, I need to run a 20" bar. There are a few trees (probably less than 10% of what I cut) that need a 24" or larger bar.

I'm interested in a saw that can be maintained, rebuilt relatively easily, and can pull a 24" bar (even though it might be a little slower) on occasion.

On the face of things, I'm a little surprised that the extra 5cc of displacement on the MS 391 doesn't translate into a bit more horsepower, but I realize there is a difference between the "pro" and "mid range" saw line.

Based on evaluating the Stihl web site/literature, there doesn't appear to be a lot of difference between these saws other than the black handle on the MS 362 and the better spec.

Before I talk to the dealer, a couple of questions:

- does the MS 391 have a vertically split case like a "pro" saw?

- has anyone used a 24" bar on the MS 391, and if so was the performance satisfactory?

I'm OK with the price differential on the MS 362 if it translates into better long term performance and cost of ownership. I cut mostly cedar elm, poplar, a variety of oak, an bald cypress. Most of what I cut are diseased or damaged trees in clearing and reclamation projects, averaging two to three trees, including felling, limbing and bucking on a daily basis. The trees range in diameter from twelve inches to thirty inches or slightly larger in a few cases, particularly cypress and some of the older live oak.

My employer provides a Stihl MS 230, running an 18" bar. It is underpowered, and under-length for most of the work I do. I have to re-hab saws of my own, a Stihl 011AVT, and a Husqvarna 142e that I use for limbing and trimming, as well as bucking some smaller wood. I'm ready to step up to a pro, or at least more appropriate saw as the current stable is inefficient, and in some cases inappropriate/dangerous for the work I have to do.

This has increased in priority, as I'm now going to be cleaning up after significant flooding in the upper Guadalupe River basin after this week's flooding event. I decided to go bite the bullet tomorrow, and am leaning toward the MS 362, even with the higher cost....

I'd appreciate any guidance or wisdom from those who've used either saw.

Stihl is better supported in my locale than Husqvarna, and Dolmar/Makita, Jonsred, and others are next to non-existent, so Stihl is probably the best choice relative to local parts/support.



Just a couple questions. How does a saw make 4.4 bph without the powerhead? Have you looked at a Husqvarna 365 or even a Jonsred 2156? My stock 346 xp cuts as fast and dependent on the chain will outcut a Stihl 362. Overlook names find what fits your needs and pay what you're comfortable with.
 

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