ms200t vs. 338xpt

[serial killer]

I dunno what you all are talking about, but where I come from we run .325 picco on all our climbing saws on 14 and 16 inch bars. I have no problem with them breaking or wearing or even needing much in the way of sharpening. I can't see that stepping down in size to 1/4" would benefit me or the company in any way. Maybe I just work with competent climbers, I dunno.

 

[SawTroll]

The kind of work PGG is talking about is forestry pruning, its a high production game where the saws take a heck of a hammering, ALOT of start stop cuts all day long. more use than an arborist would give one in a day. I have often wondered why they all used 1/4 pitch, and that does explain it.

You probably have to see it to understand, what he says definately makes sense!

How about .325NK? - works great on the 339xp......

 

[MAG58]

I don't understand what they could have done. I'm pretty sure the innards of the saws are exactly the same.....but can't say, as I've never seen any of the Jonsy's.....would like to have one though!

Higher compression for better torque and faster throttle respond..(and different porting?), and better carb. This was first on the Jonsered 2135T, and later that same was done on the New Edition Husqvarna 334T( seems to be 2135T in new colors), 338xpt and Jonsered 2139T.............
There have been sold some Jonsered 2135T around here, and there is very good feedback on this saw's.....

:greenchainsaw:

 

[SawTroll]

Higher compression for better torque and faster throttle respond..(and different porting?), and better carb. This was first on the Jonsered 2135T, and later that same was done on the New Edition Husqvarna 334T( seems to be 2135T in new colors), 338xpt and Jonsered 2139T.............
There have been sold some Jonsered 2135T around here, and there is very good feedback on this saw's.....

:greenchainsaw:

Add 339xp to that list, probably 336 as well.....


They also got rid of the auto decomp at some point.

 

[MAG58]

So the story is that Jonsered was able to fix the problem and make much better saw's of this engine type then Husqvarna ever did.....:jawdrop:

 

[SawTroll]

....or more likely, Husky tested it out on a Jonsered branded saw, before using it on Husky branded ones....LOL

 

[MAG58]

....or more likely, Husky tested it out on a Jonsered branded saw, before using it on Husky branded ones....LOL

Maybe or maybe not, after what I understand Jonsered still have a small design and development division in Husqvarna Group..........

 

[SawTroll]

Maybe or maybe not, after what I understand Jonsered still have a small design and development division in Husqvarna Group..........

That is exactly what I don't know - maybe Mange/Magnus could update us?

 

[pgg]

I dunno what you all are talking about, but where I come from we run .325 picco on all our climbing saws on 14 and 16 inch bars. I have no problem with them breaking or wearing or even needing much in the way of sharpening. I can't see that stepping down in size to 1/4" would benefit me or the company in any way. Maybe I just work with competent climbers, I dunno.

Sk, for sure there's no point in swapping out chains bars and sprockets if you're not having problems, a commercial pruning saw in a production forest is running continual throttle on/throttle off hours and hours on end, the poor saw's getting more work load in a couple of months than a arborist's saw does over a whole year probably, the 3/8 LP is the stuff that snaps on you, not .325, the 3/8 LP chain just can't handle it, the sidelinks crack, they also break off at the rivets, after just an hours use, on a 12" bar you're having to constantly adjust the tension, the stuff is stretching so quickly it's a joke! As far as the actual cutting goes, 1/4 , 3/8LP and .325 are all pretty much the same, no real difference

 

[Industry]

I use a 336 out of the Bucket and I love that saw. Keep it sharp and it does very well. Lighter than my 346XP so less fatigue at the end of the day.

 

[HolmenTree]

I am seriousily looking at buying a Jonsered 2139T. I have always run Stihl 020s, now MS200s. The stihls with no decompression or easystarts are just brutal when your tied in 50 ft. off the ground balancing on a little foothold and trying to gently start them while holding your balance. And all the times I accidently hit the kill switch in the middle of a critical cut.

The jonsered seems to have all those problems ironed out. I also like the fuel primer button also.

Willard

 

[pgg]

So far I've been told I'm incompetent, my chains don't stretch, I don't know how to maintain a chainsaw and I'm a walking disaster of operator error but one of those jonsered top handle saws, I'd gladly have one, as long as their motors are 338 not 334

 

[SawTroll]

So far I've been told I'm incompetent, my chains don't stretch, I don't know how to maintain a chainsaw and I'm a walking disaster of operator error but one of those jonsered top handle saws, I'd gladly have one, as long as their motors are 338 not 334

2139T will probably make you happy!

Probably same engine as the NE338T.

 

[rbtree]

Higher compression for better torque and faster throttle respond..(and different porting?), and better carb. This was first on the Jonsered 2135T, and later that same was done on the New Edition Husqvarna 334T( seems to be 2135T in new colors), 338xpt and Jonsered 2139T.............
There have been sold some Jonsered 2135T around here, and there is very good feedback on this saw's.....

:greenchainsaw:

can you back up this claim that the 2139 is different and better than the 338? The published specs are identical, I believe.

 

[rbtree]

The kind of work PGG is talking about is forestry pruning, its a high production game where the saws take a heck of a hammering, ALOT of start stop cuts all day long. more use than an arborist would give one in a day. I have often wondered why they all used 1/4 pitch, and that does explain it.

You probably have to see it to understand, what he says definately makes sense!

Whatever.....conifer removals, heavy limbing and bucking wood to 16 inches with, of course, a 16 inch bar...and rarely a problem....maybe these guys are working too fast, and stressing chains with side loads.....

 

[SawTroll]

can you back up this claim that the 2139 is different and better than the 338? The published specs are identical, I believe.

NE338xpt and 2139T should be the same, older 338xpts are not the same....

The power specs of the NE339xp went up vs. the original, not sure about the 338 (that have a slightly lower rating anyway) - but does the specs really matter when the saw obviously is improved?

 

[J.Walker]

With 1/4 pitch chain you get 66 links on a 12" bar, 33% more teeth than 3/8 and the 1/4 pitch chain barely stretches and outlives the 3/8 picco by a huge margin, 3/8 picco stretches fast on 12" bars and the sidelinks snap with monotonous regularity if using the saw a lot PS a stihl bar fits the husky top handle saws no sweat,(the small oregon bars have dodgy tips), just elongate the stihl bars' adjuster holes a couple of mm's with a chainsaw file, ditto the main stud slot, and also widen the stihl bars' oil holes a tad with either a drill or a dremel, she'll bolt straight on and run sweet

Interesting 66dls on a 12" bar. I wonder if this would give you a edge if you were racing a small saw in timed cuts?

 

[hornett224]

sold the new edition 338xpt last week

bought a 192tc saturday.much better saw.what a relief.

 

[pgg]

Whatever.....conifer removals, heavy limbing and bucking wood to 16 inches with, of course, a 16 inch bar...and rarely a problem....maybe these guys are working too fast, and stressing chains with side loads.....

rbt, 12" it's a short bar with a sharp turn at the bar tip, 16" bars wider at the tip, I'd be running .325 on 16" - if the sprockets available, ms200's I've seen them with 026 or similar setup at the clutchdrum, also with 12" .325 bars cut from 16" bars, lower/higher gearing with rim sprockets welded to the drum, all to get away from those snapping chains. stressing chains with sideloads probably from jamming and twisting, but you know it's your own fault then, unjammed and untwisted they are, and you can't work too fast because the chainsaw's faster than you, unless it's an echo... one good thing about an echo - don't think I've seen one snap a chain, then again it's doubtful an echo would have enough torque to cut thru flesh anyway cool:

 

[SawTroll]

rbt, 12" it's a short bar with a sharp turn at the bar tip, 16" bars wider at the tip, I'd be running .325 on 16" - if the sprockets available, ms200's I've seen them with 026 or similar setup at the clutchdrum, also with 12" .325 bars cut from 16" bars, lower/higher gearing with rim sprockets welded to the drum, all to get away from those snapping chains. stressing chains with sideloads probably from jamming and twisting, but you know it's your own fault then, unjammed and untwisted they are, and you can't work too fast because the chainsaw's faster than you, unless it's an echo... one good thing about an echo - don't think I've seen one snap a chain, then again it's doubtful an echo would have enough torque to cut thru flesh anyway cool:

My 339xp has a .325 rim setup - I guess it will fit the 338 as well....