ms200t vs. 338xpt

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Yes the Jonsered CS 2135T is history, it got a new name "Husqvarna NE 334T", and the "Husqvarna NE 338xpt" and the "Jonsered CS 2139T" is based on what Jonsered did to the old 334 to make the 2135T, and now the Top-handle from Husqvarna/Jonsered is better then ever..thanks to Jonsered...
:greenchainsaw:


That's cool! :clap: :clap:
 
Maybe you remember when Jred 2135T came out, it was based on Husky 334, but not exactly like any Husky Top-Handle, and there are the secret......:cool:

I remember you posted about it, some time ago.....

...and a bit later the NE338xpt and NE339xp appeared. :clap: :clap:

In the US the 339 may not be marketed as NE, as they never had the old version there.
 
Last edited:
I remember you posted about it, some time ago.....

...and a bit later the NE338xpt and NE339xp appeared. :clap: :clap:

In the US the 339 may not be marketed as NE, as they never had the old version there.

Jonsered never came out whit what exactly was done to make the Jred 2135T better then the Husky, but when I was reading (allot) about this saw (and the old Husky and NE) I did understand what Jonsered have done.......
 
Jonsered never came out whit what exactly was done to make the Jred 2135T better then the Husky, but when I was reading (allot) about this saw (and the old Husky and NE) I did understand what Jonsered have done.......

I believe the main differences between the NE and original 339xp is a better carb and the lack of the auto-decomp (or any decomp at all) - but there may be more.....
 
I believe the main differences between the NE and original 339xp is a better carb and the lack of the auto-decomp (or any decomp at all) - but there may be more.....

There is also higher compression for better torque and faster throttle respond.............
and maybe there's more than that to them also....different porting?

And Jonsered CS 2135 T was the first......

:greenchainsaw:
 
Last edited:
In the US the 339 may not be marketed as NE, as they never had the old version there.

From what I saw; First Husky marketed a 336( non XP), this was about 4 years ago. Then came the 339xp, then the new edition339xp.
When the 336 was being sold it was marketed as a saw for bucket truck work or prunning in a farm orchard.
As far as the 339xp being a climbing saw, well my cutting partner is going to give it a test. There are times where he wants the 346 up in a tree and I think the 339 will work good too.
Still most of the time he uses his 335xp Cal Special. We use Sthil chain on our 334, 335 and 338 saws, it's 3/8" pinco size. I forget the drive line count, maybe 52dl's.
 
From what I saw; First Husky marketed a 336( non XP), this was about 4 years ago. Then came the 339xp, then the new edition339xp.
When the 336 was being sold it was marketed as a saw for bucket truck work or prunning in a farm orchard.
As far as the 339xp being a climbing saw, well my cutting partner is going to give it a test. There are times where he wants the 346 up in a tree and I think the 339 will work good too.
Still most of the time he uses his 335xp Cal Special. We use Sthil chain on our 334, 335 and 338 saws, it's 3/8" pinco size. I forget the drive line count, maybe 52dl's.

Do you want to try a 13" .325NK bar on your 339xp ? - I have at least one that I don't need. It was on my 346 when the dealer checked carb adjustment etc, but haven't been used since.

I will send it to you, if you want it, and I have your adress from things you sent over here.....
 
Last edited:
With 1/4 pitch chain you get 66 links on a 12" bar, 33% more teeth than 3/8 and the 1/4 pitch chain barely stretches and outlives the 3/8 picco by a huge margin, 3/8 picco stretches fast on 12" bars and the sidelinks snap with monotonous regularity if using the saw a lot :( PS a stihl bar fits the husky top handle saws no sweat,(the small oregon bars have dodgy tips), just elongate the stihl bars' adjuster holes a couple of mm's with a chainsaw file, ditto the main stud slot, and also widen the stihl bars' oil holes a tad with either a drill or a dremel, she'll bolt straight on and run sweet
 
I never see any of issues you say with Stihl Picco... No chain "stretches" - it's the rivets/journals that wear. 3/8P is all that's used on 200T's in the USA, and they get used hard right down to the last fraction of a cutter. Maybe it's a chain brand issue?

Are you talking about narrow picco? if so... I see issues on saws above about 1.5hp.
 
Last edited:
I never see any of issues you say with Stihl Picco... No chain "stretches" - it's the rivets/journals that wear. 3/8P is all that's used on 200T's in the USA, and they get used hard right down to the last fraction of a cutter. Maybe it's a chain brand issue?

Are you talking about narrow picco? if so... I see issues on saws above about 1.5hp.

rivets wear the chain stretches, just normal lp 3/8 picco for 12" bars, 3 brands, stihl, oregon, sabre, they all snap long before the teeth are anywhere near sharpened to the end, obviously lots of people are over-sharpening their chainsaws, :laugh: by half way worn you can tie it in a knot, it's sloppy junk
 
Better explain, that's revving from idle to full noise that does it
 
I never see any of issues you say with Stihl Picco... No chain "stretches" - it's the rivets/journals that wear. 3/8P is all that's used on 200T's in the USA, and they get used hard right down to the last fraction of a cutter. Maybe it's a chain brand issue?

Are you talking about narrow picco? if so... I see issues on saws above about 1.5hp.

As far as I know, you are right!.....:)
 
rivets wear the chain stretches, just normal lp 3/8 picco for 12" bars, 3 brands, stihl, oregon, sabre, they all snap long before the teeth are anywhere near sharpened to the end, obviously lots of people are over-sharpening their chainsaws, :laugh: by half way worn you can tie it in a knot, it's sloppy junk

Sounds like a user problem to me!
 
Sigh... it's revving non-stop as in power on/power off, around 50 branches to prune a pine tree ground to seven feet, a grunty saw like a XPT or 200T you'll get one cut per branch, no feathered cuts, dead flat flush and no collar damage,you can bang those branches off within a minute or under, depends, a real biggie's a different story again
 
rivets wear the chain stretches, just normal lp 3/8 picco for 12" bars, 3 brands, stihl, oregon, sabre, they all snap long before the teeth are anywhere near sharpened to the end, obviously lots of people are over-sharpening their chainsaws, :laugh: by half way worn you can tie it in a knot, it's sloppy junk

Gotta disagree as well. have run through hundreds of feet of Picco, Oregon and Stihl, with just occasional breakage...

Been over 20 years since we ran .250 chain. It is smooth...but pricey, and would require expensive change overs. Ain't gonna happen.
 
Last edited:
Jonsered never came out whit what exactly was done to make the Jred 2135T better then the Husky, but when I was reading (allot) about this saw (and the old Husky and NE) I did understand what Jonsered have done.......


I don't understand what they could have done. I'm pretty sure the innards of the saws are exactly the same.....but can't say, as I've never seen any of the Jonsy's.....would like to have one though!
 
Gotta disagree as well. have run through hundreds of feet of Picco, Oregon and Stihl, with just occasional breakage...

Been over 20 years since we ran .250 chain. It is smooth...but pricey, and would require expensive change overs. Ain't gonna happen.

Again if your saws are having a RELATIVELY easy life then 3/8 picco is fine, and it's not worthwhile changing over, for commercial pruning saws used full-on hard-out every day in the pine forests it's a whole different ball game, 3/8 picco doesn't hack the pace compared to 1/4 pitch chain, that's why I call it junk, simple fact, I've seen truckloads of semi-worn 3/8 picco chains snap on the operator, the damn stuff stretches like crazy, it's ridiculous at 30 bucks a hit, wasting your time re-joining them too, once they've snapped they're history, not worth shagging around with, the forests here are full of half worn 3/8 picco chains thrown away in disgust, have only ever snapped one 1/4 pitch chain on the job, people here are disagreeing about things that they don't even know about.. :dizzy:
 
The kind of work PGG is talking about is forestry pruning, its a high production game where the saws take a heck of a hammering, ALOT of start stop cuts all day long. more use than an arborist would give one in a day. I have often wondered why they all used 1/4 pitch, and that does explain it.

You probably have to see it to understand, what he says definately makes sense!
 

Latest posts

Back
Top