2000ssm6
Stihl User
They are pretty close in small wood but don't go picking fights with a 20"+ 460.
MS460 group
- Thread starter mattmc2003
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They are pretty close in small wood but don't go picking fights with a 20"+ 460.
parrisw
Tree Freak
They are pretty close in small wood but don't go picking fights with a 20"+ 460.
LOL, ya, I'll run'em any day with a 361 and my 046mag on 25" Pinks for saws anyone???
Evanrude
Addicted to ArboristSite
parrisw
Tree Freak
Alright, your 046, my "361" outside...
LOL, just a sec, let me get my Sharpie first, then I'll meet ya out back.
deer slayer
ArboristSite Operative
That's funny 
I knew it wouldn't be long before one those 361 guys butted in!!!!
I knew it wouldn't be long before one those 361 guys butted in!!!!
Evanrude
Addicted to ArboristSite
:hmm3grin2orange::hmm3grin2orange::hmm3grin2orange:
windthrown
361 Junkie
Too bad it does not run as smooth as a 361. O/w I would have kept my 460.
mattmc2003
Addicted to ArboristSite
Well, I got my DP cover on, big dawgs, and i got crazy with the roller catcher and snapped it off.....so...I may just make my own out of a bolt and put the ceramic on over it. I dunno. It doesn't really sound any different. It sounds to be running right on now. It was pretty rich before. 12, 900 the dealer said. 4 stroking heavy. Now it sounds better, and i still have about a 1/4 turn before i'd have to pull the limiter. I'll open the cover up soon. Should i leave the screen in? Anybody? I usually store it indoors, so im not worried about dirt daubers. Would it help out?
wvlogger
Rock trucker
i take the screens out
2000ssm6
Stihl User
That screen really isn't restrictive unless it's dirty, so I just leave mine in. You need to get that saw turning 13,700 or 13,800. 12,900 is pretty rich for a DP 460...
2000ssm6
Stihl User
Try a 441, you won't grab the 361 again.
windthrown
361 Junkie
Nope. I have been through this so many times... I have run the 441. Yes, I still prefer the 361. I also do not believe that a 441 can outcut my modded 044. Different torque curve, but more overall power in a 441? No way, Jose. I also use the smallest/lightest saw that I can get away with. I dunno why it is so complicated for some people to understand. The 460 was large, heavy and had more power than I needed. The 441 is also large and while it is smooth, it is weird to cut with. Granted it had the early softer spongey springs in it. But I like the analogy of the guy that said its like cutting with a watermelon. It is sprung like a kids old fashion rocking horse. This argument is similar the 290 vs the 361 argument, except in the case of the 440 vs the 441, there is no added power in the 441 (OK, 0.1 more HP, but I defy anyone to feel the difference), and the 441 is heavier than the 440. The 441 is also wider and bulkier. Also what I want now (and have for a long time now) is a 50cc saw with good AV. Going the other way. Again, the smallest and lightest saw to do the job. I still use my 025. Cut a hemlock down with it yesterday. Did not need the 361 for that, even though it had about three trunks that were 10-12" DBH. I thought about brining one. Also thought about tweeking the 044 with the DP muffler on it. But on a smaller tree? I prefer a lighter saw to get into the woods and stomp around with. The 025 did the job just fine.
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windthrown
361 Junkie
I leave the screens in because of rather strict fire control here. One spark and I would be fined up the wazoo. Mud wasps can be a problem here if they are left in one place too long. But that muffler is an empty shell, and you can pull it apart and knock it out pretty easy.
stevohut
ArboristSite Guru
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ms 460
a 460 club would be awesome I've already muffler modded and cut the rakers down on my chain but need more power. I've been modding snowmobile motors for years so I know my 2-strokers pretty good. Any tips would be appreciated I'm a greenhorn when it comes to saws.
a 460 club would be awesome I've already muffler modded and cut the rakers down on my chain but need more power. I've been modding snowmobile motors for years so I know my 2-strokers pretty good. Any tips would be appreciated I'm a greenhorn when it comes to saws.
id save your money and invest in a dremel with carbid burs and cutting wheels and open the factory muffler exit port up.
i feel theyre might be more power gain from one large exit rather than two. it may help scavenging on the intake side haveing the large exspansion chamber and one exhaust exit port.
theres tons of potential through the factory port.
but ya its easier to bolt on dp and be cool like the rest of the guys
i feel theyre might be more power gain from one large exit rather than two. it may help scavenging on the intake side haveing the large exspansion chamber and one exhaust exit port.
theres tons of potential through the factory port.
but ya its easier to bolt on dp and be cool like the rest of the guys
I had a 460 for a while, does that count?
stevohut
ArboristSite Guru
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carb mods
I took off my limiter caps for tuning then had an idea to try using springs on the needle jets so they would hold there setting and not vibrate loose. It doesn't work the threads on the jet don't allow enough room for a full seating of the jet when a spring is added, nearly all the threads on the jet are taken inside to the seat with factory spec settings. Its a piss poor design if you ask me springs have been used for adjusting for years why not incorporate this into the design of a more functional carb. I know they put those dumb caps on so people who don't know what they are doing don't leaner out and squeek the motor. It just makes the saw less tuneable for the performance enthusiasts. Just thought I would pass this on so nobody else wastes their time with springs on the needles.
I took off my limiter caps for tuning then had an idea to try using springs on the needle jets so they would hold there setting and not vibrate loose. It doesn't work the threads on the jet don't allow enough room for a full seating of the jet when a spring is added, nearly all the threads on the jet are taken inside to the seat with factory spec settings. Its a piss poor design if you ask me springs have been used for adjusting for years why not incorporate this into the design of a more functional carb. I know they put those dumb caps on so people who don't know what they are doing don't leaner out and squeek the motor. It just makes the saw less tuneable for the performance enthusiasts. Just thought I would pass this on so nobody else wastes their time with springs on the needles.
2000ssm6
Stihl User
I took off my limiter caps for tuning then had an idea to try using springs on the needle jets so they would hold there setting and not vibrate loose. It doesn't work the threads on the jet don't allow enough room for a full seating of the jet when a spring is added, nearly all the threads on the jet are taken inside to the seat with factory spec settings. Its a piss poor design if you ask me springs have been used for adjusting for years why not incorporate this into the design of a more functional carb. I know they put those dumb caps on so people who don't know what they are doing don't leaner out and squeek the motor. It just makes the saw less tuneable for the performance enthusiasts. Just thought I would pass this on so nobody else wastes their time with springs on the needles.
Spings were used on the older style carbs, you could use a the older style on your 460 if you would like to buy another carb. The limiter caps are simple to defeat, just remove 'em and cut off the big tab and reinstall, you now can adjust either screw to where ever ya want it.
