My new Dolmar 5105

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what can you tell me about the gas? recently some people told me that gas with higher octane than 95 are not recommended for chainsaw, it runs too dry or something. any opinions?

95 is "regular" here, but remember that the US posters are referring to a different octane scale, so the numbers aren't comparable.
 
Finally did some real cutting the day with it. (16' to 30' hardwood) Didn't quite hold its own to the 359 in the bigger stuff, but wasn't expecting it to anyways.

If everything goes well with this saw, i'll probably buy a 6400 in the future :msp_thumbsup:
 
Right, some of the lighter ends in gas, which makes for eaiser starting is where the higher octanes of the blend are. Most later saws will hold pressure in the tank and prevent evaporation but earlier grub screw vents let air move both ways. A tight sealing mix container goes without sayin.

With time, the aromatic portions of the fuel go clean through the walls of HDPE fuel containers (and tanks) too. (months)

This is why you can only really do long term storage of fuel in an unvented steel drum/jerry can.

Niko, you're lucky 95 RON is 'regular', here it's 91 and now has ethanol @ 10% :(

95 and 98 are considered high octane here, and are mostly E free, which is why I just use BP Ultimate (or Shell Vortex in a pinch) in our OPE but the nearest petrol station that carries those fuels are 30km away.
Thank my deity Mrs rick works in that town and I just throw the jerry cans in the back of her ute.
 
Finally did some real cutting the day with it. (16' to 30' hardwood) Didn't quite hold its own to the 359 in the bigger stuff, but wasn't expecting it to anyways.

If everything goes well with this saw, i'll probably buy a 6400 in the future :msp_thumbsup:

The 6400 is heavy and large for its power (and cc)....
 
With time, the aromatic portions of the fuel go clean through the walls of HDPE fuel containers (and tanks) too. (months)

This is why you can only really do long term storage of fuel in an unvented steel drum/jerry can.

Niko, you're lucky 95 RON is 'regular', here it's 91 and now has ethanol @ 10% :(

95 and 98 are considered high octane here, and are mostly E free, which is why I just use BP Ultimate (or Shell Vortex in a pinch) in our OPE but the nearest petrol station that carries those fuels are 30km away.
Thank my deity Mrs rick works in that town and I just throw the jerry cans in the back of her ute.

I only use the Aspen alkylate fuel in chainsaws anyway, so I don't really care....:msp_smile:
 
The 6400 is heavy and large for its power (and cc)....

I know. Just mainly want it for falling the bigger trees and cutting up wood.

Come to think about it, I don't really have the cash for a new saw anyways. I'll probably track down some other bigger used Husky and call it quits for a while. 359s don't quite cut it with some of the things I gotta cut sometimes.
 
what can you tell me about the gas? recently some people told me that gas with higher octane than 95 are not recommended for chainsaw, it runs too dry or something. any opinions?

No such a thing as fuel being "too dry". Higher compression engines need higher octane fuel to prevent detonation, lower compression engines don't.
I changed out the cat muffler on my 5105 and lowered the squish soon after I bought it, I run high octane. You can really stand on it without having it bog and that is with the 20 in bar and sharp chain. It is a perfect saw for cutting the type of wood I do, Almond and Apricot mostly.
 
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I know. Just mainly want it for falling the bigger trees and cutting up wood.

Come to think about it, I don't really have the cash for a new saw anyways. I'll probably track down some other bigger used Husky and call it quits for a while. 359s don't quite cut it with some of the things I gotta cut sometimes.

Sounds like a used 372xp, but beware of saws that have been used profisionally.....
 
I only use the Aspen alkylate fuel in chainsaws anyway, so I don't really care....:msp_smile:

Aah....
Besides being better quality fuel and the fact it does not deteriorate are there any other advantages of the Aspen?
From what I know is like this:
gas in carb => attacks rubber
running dry => the diaphragm dries and deforms over time
So from what I understand correctly the advantage of using the Aspen would be if it wouldn't attack the rubber over time, so you could leave gas in the carb without worrying about deposits or damages.
 
Aah....
Besides being better quality fuel and the fact it does not deteriorate are there any other advantages of the Aspen?
From what I know is like this:
gas in carb => attacks rubber
running dry => the diaphragm dries and deforms over time
So from what I understand correctly the advantage of using the Aspen would be if it wouldn't attack the rubber over time, so you could leave gas in the carb without worrying about deposits or damages.

It also runs a lot cleaner, regarding carbon deposits in combustion chamber and muffler.
 
Pad, on my 5100 I have learned the trick to easy starting. Do not leave the choke on for more than three pulls or it's flooded. Take the choke off after 2-3 pulls even if it hasn't popped or you will flood it.
Mine has 210 lbs compression with no release and it pulls hard.

Mine is an early 5100. It runs great, but still pulls hard. I may get an Echo CS500P.
 
It also runs a lot cleaner, regarding carbon deposits in combustion chamber and muffler.

In Romania we don't have Aspen Alkylate and the Dolmar/Makita dealers don't even know it exists something like this.
In case of something would happen to my chainsaw during the warranty period, could they tell I've used Aspen, not normal gas+oil?
 
In Romania we don't have Aspen Alkylate and the Dolmar/Makita dealers don't even know it exists something like this.
In case of something would happen to my chainsaw during the warranty period, could they tell I've used Aspen, not normal gas+oil?

There would be less carbon deposits.

Another thing is that engines with deposits shouldn't be run on Aspen, as it losen clogs of carbon, that may harm the engine.....
 
There would be less carbon deposits.

Another thing is that engines with deposits shouldn't be run on Aspen, as it losen clogs of carbon, that may harm the engine.....

OK, but if you had to guess, how many tanks of fuel would you say it takes for carbon deposits to appear.
I've only used like 5 tanks, is this enough so that Aspen wouldn't be appropriate?
 
That is very unlikely.

Is there a way I can tell if there are any deposits and if the deposits would be harmful for the engine in case I switch to Aspen. Also can you tell me how much it costs a 5 l can of Aspen in your country. We don't have it in Romania, so I don't know at what price it would get with shipping.
 
Is there a way I can tell if there are any deposits and if the deposits would be harmful for the engine in case I switch to Aspen. Also can you tell me how much it costs a 5 l can of Aspen in your country. We don't have it in Romania, so I don't know at what price it would get with shipping.
To inspect and clean it, you would need to take the engine apart, but it hardly is an issue on a saw as new as yours, and i have never heard of something bad actually happening. My 1970 vintage survived the transition with no issues many years ago.....

Aspen costs close to twise as much a pump fuel here, but then it is premixed with a high quality synth oil, and can be stored for years with no ill effects.
 
I'm pretty sure I'll be switching to Aspen soon.I have only one more question: better/purer gas, doesn't deteriorate in time, premixed, friendly to the environment, better for the engine...; but how about the oil in the mix, from what I know you have to shake the container in which you have your mixture before pouring it into the chainsaw, so if I let my saw stay with Aspen in it for 2-3 months will I have to shake the saw before using it ? Doesn't the oil separate from the gas? Wouldn't be better to buy Aspen 4 and just mix as much as I intend to use at that moment?
 
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