New climbing saw

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xander9727

The Silverback
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I am wanting to buy a new climbing saw. Currently I am using a Stihl 191t. I like the stihl OK (better now that I modified the muffler) and originally bought it because I didn't want to pony up for a 020t. I have been looking at the 340 echo, the husky 335 and the 200t. I wish I could say money is not a factor but it is. I'm willing to pay the extra money for a significant improvement but I don't buy equipment to look cool. I noticed that baileys sells a 335 with a 45cc engine (california special). If I could pick your brains on this I would appreciate it. My first tree saw was a homelite (I forget the model) and the 191t was a big step up from it. I have always liked stihl products but I'm not totally brand loyal. Any info would be appreciated, thanks.
 
I have a 335 and it works well, light with sufficient power but it`s a limbing saw like any other small saw.
It cost too much but don`t they all?
 
If you want cheap reliability, go Echo. The 340 is a much better saw thjan the 019. For very good stock power, go Stihl 020T. If you want to spend a bundle get the Husky and have it modified. Unfortunately, reliability is an issue with the Husky without mods. So if you want the Husky is isn't worth it unless you get it tweaked. Rog loves his, but it is not stock. It was a dog when stock.
 
Silky Zubat for $60. Then get a mid sized limbing saw.

If I'd known about Silky when before I got my 020, I would not have spent 425 on a climbing saw. Woulda got an 026/036 or something for the heavy cuts,
 
I have been using the Husky 335 cali for 4months now and really like the saw. I have had no problems with it, and love the power. It is very dependable and starts on the 2nd or 3rd pull every time when cold, and 1 pull when warm. I talked with 2 local saw shops befor buying the saw, and spoke with the guys as Baileys about reliability. The people who fix these saws think that they are good, and don't see them in the shop a lot, I think you won't find too many people that would call this saw a "dog". They will all tell you that 2-3 yrs ago the saw had oiler problems and some other small issues, but todays saws seem to have the bugs worked out. Spend the extra money, you won't regret it.
Greg
 
Jim,

take the baffle out of the muffler. also, enlarge the deflector to effectively make the outlet port larger. But, if you do that, the gases will burn through the plastic, mostly cosmetic damage.
 
Dan,
I've run both the Echo and the 019. I can tell you that the 019 doesn't come close to the Echo in power. Granted, the Echo is no powerhouse compared to the high-dollar saws but they are plenty strong for me (with a razor-sharp chain) and rock-solid reliable.

I'd like more power, but I cannot justify spending 2-3X as much money on a climbing saw that is a little stronger. Besides, my Echos last me a lot longer than the local guys can keep their 020T's running. :p

Echo 340- $240
Husky 335- $400 (approx) plus mods to make it reliable- $200+ shipping
Stihl ms200- $450

I'm looking forward to hearing Dennis' results with modding an Echo 340. I might get a hot Echo for the cost of a stock Stihl!
 
Brian,
The mods on the 335 aren`t mandatory.
The only thing I`ve done to mine is put it on the tach and fine tuned it after the break in period..
I`m quite happy with the power as is.

Never.JPG


I`ll never give up my 335 :D
 
i toyed with the idea of buying another 335 and having it modified but after having 5 335,s which all turned out to be lemons i just can't buy another. too small a gas tank and no reliability. my 020t served me well for about 2 1/2 years before the muffler cracked (it still runs good, just tooooo loud). i'm a total husky fan the 020t was the first stihl i ever bought. i prefer huskys for wood saws but for a climber i prefer the stihl.
 
I know everyone means well but......I still don't have an answer and probably never will. I was talking to another climber today and he was buying a new chain for his tree saw. I noticed it was a chisel (rapid super) chain and when I questioned him he looked at me like I was crazy. I won't use anything but a chisel chain on my bucking saws 036, 088. But for limbing and in the tree I use safety chain (rm2). It doesn't cut as fast but, it doesn't want to kick back at me when I am cutting one handed or infront of my body. On limbing saws I only am cutting small wood 8" or less typically and the safety feature doesn't add much time and helps prevent new groundies from testing out their chaps. Am I lost in the sauce on this? Let me know I can't stand to backstroke in the Ragu!!!
 
I run RS chain on midsize and large saws, but PM on my climbing saw. Can't handle the green wank stuff, though. Reminds me of whittling on cold butter with a dull knife.
With proper handling and the narrow nose (reduced kickback) bars, I don't feel like using REAL chain on my climbing saw is an unnecessary risk. If you do a lot of work on hardwoods, the RM2 chain is about worthless.

Why would a GROUNDIE be using YOUR CLIMBING saw on the GROUND?????!!!!!! :eek: :angry: NO ONE uses my climbing saw except me. And I rarely use it on the ground.
 
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Stihl's Picco Micro safety stuff cuts pretty good. 3/8 Low profile non safety chain is super agressive and has never given me any problems. I run both and really haven't noticed a kick back difference-but I don't have much kickback occurrence in any event.
 
tree saw

So the 335 Cali special with the rs chain has too much kickback? Not. If you are using it for limbing go for the 14" bar(comes with a 16" bar) for the little stuff and send up the 65cc Poulan with the 18" bar (came with a 24" and 30" bar) for the bigger stuff. How many of you guys put the shorter bars on the saws for limbing? I find the shorter bars are easier to control in the trees. A longer bar and I might cut myself loose. Longer bars are for the groundwork where there is some terra firma under the feet. Why would you want that extra weight up in the tree?

Buy two sets of saws, one with short bars for up in the trees and one with longer bars for the ground. It works for me. If one saw does it all, why not own three of them? Why would the guy on the ground be using your tree saw for unless he was warming it up for you?
 
Wait a minute, you guys have two saws?? One witha long bar and one witha a short bar? Wow, that must save a lot of time cutting down a tree. Instead of lowering the topping saw each time you knock off a branch, so the ground men can cut it up, then pulling it back into the tree for the next cut, you can just keep working.
Could you explain the theory about a long bar on a big saw and a short bar on the small saw one more time?
 

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