New Large-ish Saw - Advice Appreciated

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If you are not going to make a career out of busting up 36”+ logs get a 372xp or an ms441 with a 24” bar and some full skip chain.

I agree.. however would not worry about full skip with a 24" on a 441. Either of my 441's will pull a 24" through anything - if kept sharp. I have a 28" on one of them now.. it works well.. can bog down in some wood though a bit.. but not seriously.
 
Both the 372 and the ms441 have more than enough snot to pull 24” full comp in hardwood all day long. I recommend skip chain for use in salvage wood as most of the salvage/homeowner logs I deal with contain metal. Skip chain simply has less cutters to sharpen. Running a 3120xp with a 50” cannon is all well and good until you tag a piece of steel.
When you cut salvage wood for firewood, use the shortest bar you can get away with and use skip chain. For larger logs I have found that a 24” bar works well for most of the wood available in my area and Oregon 72/73 JGX will become your best friend. You can grab a 24” loop 3/8 50 gauge on Baileys for $17 bucks. You can’t beat that with a stick especially if you are just cutting salvage wood to feed the furnace. This setup works well for me but might not be optimal for others. Good luck with your saw choice!
 
alright - did some looking around last night - 36-40 was right on...biggest one is 48". I've got 5 on teh place about 6-10' long so it's certainly the exception nto the rule.

The rule is around 20-24" oak and 14-18" softwood. I like the idea of a mid-high 70cc saw with a 25-28" bar most of the time but a 32" for those "cases".

I cut one of these with the 290+20"GB one time last year - never again.

I will get more info on the GTG today...that's be awesome to see how some of these saws feel before you drop some $.

I can't thank you all enough. Your advice/ experience is very much appreciated!!!
 
If you are not going to make a career out of busting up 36”+ logs get a 372xp or an ms441 with a 24” bar and some full skip chain. Keep the chain sharp and it will handle anything you throw at it. I have used a 372xp to salvage many cords of hardwood from logs that belong in a tub grinder. It is a lot of work but if you sell the clear and used the knots and scraps for furnace bait, it aint a bad way to go. Softwood just cut into manageable chunks and stuff it in the furnace door.
The ms660 and 395xp are great saws but in my opinion, they are way overkill and too expensive to burn up in the fire wood pile. If you hunt around, you might be able to pick up a 372xp for around $700. If you are a bit if an iconoclast, hunt up a dolmar 7900. Best bang for the buck! Good luck!

makes good sense. I believe I'll go with a mid 70cc saw with a 24-28" bar and a longer one for those larger ones. I burn ~ 30 rick (10 cords/ year) so it's nothing to shake a stick at, but I'm not makin' a living at it either.
 
Both the 372 and the ms441 have more than enough snot to pull 24” full comp in hardwood all day long. I recommend skip chain for use in salvage wood as most of the salvage/homeowner logs I deal with contain metal. Skip chain simply has less cutters to sharpen. Running a 3120xp with a 50” cannon is all well and good until you tag a piece of steel.
When you cut salvage wood for firewood, use the shortest bar you can get away with and use skip chain. For larger logs I have found that a 24” bar works well for most of the wood available in my area and Oregon 72/73 JGX will become your best friend. You can grab a 24” loop 3/8 50 gauge on Baileys for $17 bucks. You can’t beat that with a stick especially if you are just cutting salvage wood to feed the furnace. This setup works well for me but might not be optimal for others. Good luck with your saw choice!

most...ok all of my wood is stove bait (like that - never heard it before), but it's what the loggers didn't take - I'm yet to find any metal in any of it, but that is good to know! That $ is killer!!! beats the hell outta 27.50 for a new 20" .063 Stihl chain!! That's why I sharpen my own though - hell you don't save any $ burning wood if you have to buy chains all the damned time.
 
I mainly cut red oak and white oak diameter up to 40+".
My setting is MS460 with 28" bar and 20" bar.
My chain choice is full comp chisel for both bars.
I carry several chain loops for each bar and change them as chain gets dull.
Switching bar/chain on MS460 is very quick.
This setting works well for me.
Noko

good to know - thank you!
 
Stay with the Stihl. A good 044 will do all you ever ask of it and not complain. 24" bar is no problem, good power and they really wake up with a muff. mod.

Go to the GTG,run a few saws and get a feel for them.If you're working up the tops left from logging the place,then take smilin possums advice.He has a wealth of real world experience to offer,he won't steer you wrong.
 
Go to the GTG,run a few saws and get a feel for them.If you're working up the tops left from logging the place,then take smilin possums advice.He has a wealth of real world experience to offer,he won't steer you wrong.

you know I thought it would be the tops too, but honestly it's the exact opposite. It's mainly whole trees they pushed over (or that have since fallen) or trunks (8-10' long)...and for some reason they left a TON of oak. Maybe the market was down at the time. maybe they forgot it, IDK, but I'll take It! More bang for your buck IMO!
 
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LOL, just making sure because it sounded like you were ready to go this weekend...made me go back and double check:biggrinbounce2:
 
I am too, should be a good turn out. BTW Mark Scranton is my buddies name down there at Bloomington North.
 

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