New saws

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I am a dinosaur who still only has carbeurated saws... how are the M-Tronic/Autotune saws working out long term? Do they have fits if you change the airflow or the displacement of the saw?
 
I am a dinosaur who still only has carbeurated saws... how are the M-Tronic/Autotune saws working out long term? Do they have fits if you change the airflow or the displacement of the saw?
I had a job last year and went to buy a Stihl MS400, didn’t, guy in the shop made the decision for me, started it up flat out and kept it there, I walked, had to cancel the job too because of it.
Where I live I would have endEd up depending on an outfit who couldn’t even start a saw,
that experience opened my eyes, I decided to just continue to live with the old tech I can fix myself.
The new tech is not that complicated, but without the diagnostic equipment and people with basic
common sense to address any potential issues I really had no other choice but to give it a miss.
 
I am a dinosaur who still only has carbeurated saws... how are the M-Tronic/Autotune saws working out long term? Do they have fits if you change the airflow or the displacement of the saw?
Trying to be positive here, but the way things are going, chainsaws will go the same way as guns,
they Will end up being legislated out of existence, replaced by battery power.
 
Trying to be positive here, but the way things are going, chainsaws will go the same way as guns,
they Will end up being legislated out of existence, replaced by battery power.
Logging industry? would be interesting, picture it. Home owners small saws maybe an improvement if they build them to last.
 
Is this a new problem or has it done this for years? It's not an unusual issue on these models but can be fixed:

1) Check your coil isn't overheating and everything is clean. Check all your electric connections. As soon as the saw dies check to see if you've lost spark. If it did you may have a faulty coil.
2) Check that your stop switch return spring isn't broken or weak and tripping while in use.
3) If all looks good with the electrical system you likely have a carb issue or a connecting line issue. Would suggest checking all the lines and make sure the impulse line is good. If those are good then pulling the carb apart and check to make sure everything looks clean and there's no crap inside.

The 550xp/2253 may be known for some heat related issues (especially hot restart from heat soak), but they're not a bad saw and served many professionals for years. Get it sorted and you'll be happy.
the saw was alright the first fall. i took it out that spring and all it would do is bo bo boggggg. dealer fixed it 120$ and a lil while later it started stalling once its warm mid rev, like you hit the kill switch. it starts right back up immediately only to stall again. if something like a line was wrong, it wouldnt run nice till it got hot. im all set bringing a saw down for a big shop bill. autotune saws are a joke. it sits on the basement floor awaiting its new owner!
 
Trying to be positive here, but the way things are going, chainsaws will go the same way as guns,
they Will end up being legislated out of existence, replaced by battery power.

I'm looking forward to owning electric saws that are stronger, more reliable, and run longer than gas ones.

When they start making those I will start buying them! :D

Anyone have experience with a muffler mod or a cylinder/piston swap on a saw with an electronic carb? Trying to figure out if the carb adjusts for the changes, or you can adjust it somehow, or if it just doesn't work. (I am guessing that is can deal with a muffler mod at least or there would be a lot of complaints online...)
 
I'm looking forward to owning electric saws that are stronger, more reliable, and run longer than gas ones.

When they start making those I will start buying them! :D

Anyone have experience with a muffler mod or a cylinder/piston swap on a saw with an electronic carb? Trying to figure out if the carb adjusts for the changes, or you can adjust it somehow, or if it just doesn't work. (I am guessing that is can deal with a muffler mod at least or there would be a lot of complaints online...)
 
I put together both a 550 and 555 from ebay parts saws and muffler modded both, basically gutted the cans and left the screens. Both self adjusted and both are screamers. They are also base gasket deleted. They seem to self adjust which I think is kind of the whole idea of there electronic carb. Two years and both running strong. I think a lot of the problem with these saws is they melt down from heat, some from dull chains, some from exhaust restriction. I also modded the top covers to resemble the mod husky did in there top covers.
 
Like anything it’s a trade off. They work, but the more tech in a saw, the less control you have.

For the average home owner, council worker or employee using company equipment the benefits are obvious, for someone who knows how to tune a saw, the only advantage is a little better fuel economy.
 
I'm looking forward to owning electric saws that are stronger, more reliable, and run longer than gas ones.

When they start making those I will start buying them! :D

Anyone have experience with a muffler mod or a cylinder/piston swap on a saw with an electronic carb? Trying to figure out if the carb adjusts for the changes, or you can adjust it somehow, or if it just doesn't work. (I am guessing that is can deal with a muffler mod at least or there would be a lot of complaints online...)
Am looking forward to the first 3hp battery saw, quiet, no smoke, no oil mix to debate,
no gas no plug to keep clean, may be they will have an air filter to keep motor clean.

By all accounts the Autotune and MT saws have no trouble adjusting to cylinder ports
and muffler mods.
 
Am looking forward to the first 3hp battery saw, quiet, no smoke, no oil mix to debate,
no gas no plug to keep clean, may be they will have an air filter to keep motor clean.

By all accounts the Autotune and MT saws have no trouble adjusting to cylinder ports
and muffler mods.
It believe some do, an ms 261 ported by @drf255 required a new jet size from memory. It’s a very interesting video and worth checking out his channel.
 
It believe some do, an ms 261 ported by @drf255 required a new jet size from memory. It’s a very interesting video and worth checking out his channel.
Thanks, I will have a look, never heard of a problem though, but I did hear to keep
to 40:1 as more oil did result in issues, with MT having the least.
 
It believe some do, an ms 261 ported by @drf255 required a new jet size from memory. It’s a very interesting video and worth checking out his channel.
Yes Tom. The black solenoid saws, even V2, generally require a jet drill when ported. The white solenoid saws are hit and miss. Most have a larger jet from the factory-its like they knew. The jet is in the main nozzle on the MT saws. It’s gotta be punched out, drilled, then replaced.
 

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