New Super Split HD Owner!!

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At my own expense to show how much of an idiot I was I'll tell my saga.
I initially was using spray grease on the rack and got it on the cam follower and it gumed it all up, stuck and developed a flat spot. Paul fixed me up with a new 3/4" one and since I have been using the wd40 or PB blaster and heating up in the winter no issues
$30.00 some dollar screw up!

I see Guswhit / Sandhill Crane...the 3/4" bearing is the newest bearing change. I always thought the 3/4" was standard on the machines and possibly had upgraded to a 1" bearing. I never knew previous/older models up to a certain point used a 5/8" bearing. I guess I got 1" bearing stuck in my head because of the Split Second reply earlier stating they used that OD.
 
I still have the original small bearing on mine with over 60 cords. Just keep the beam clean and a shot of WD on the bearing and a shot on top of the rack. No worries...
 
I still have the original small bearing on mine with over 60 cords. Just keep the beam clean and a shot of WD on the bearing and a shot on top of the rack. No worries...

Ya, now I see! Directions, directions, we don't need no stinking directions!
I do keep mine inside when not splitting so its not exposed to the weather, and I give it LIBERAL shots of wd40 while splitting. I need breaks more often anyway so this is my justification for taking them!
 
Got to 55 today and the rack returned just fine. Split some cherry for a local restaurant.

6b74a5ad3ee482b08e9d8cc84613f53d.jpg


tappa talk samsung note 2
 
Got to 55 today and the rack returned just fine. Split some cherry for local restaurant.

6b74a5ad3ee482b08e9d8cc84613f53d.jpg


tappa talk samsung note 2

Good to hear on the rack return deal. Nice little amount of cherry...good to smoke with if low and slow.
 
From what I have found super split has a heavier flywheel, DR is a cheaper copy. DR has an upgrade kit that replaces the bearings with solid bushing , but if you don't ask the right questions they will let you get out of warranty! Have talked to the owner of the super splitter, he is a class act as far as I can tell. Think you made a great choice, just my 2 pennies :).
 
SS folks, question for you...I've noticed in many pics, the ram engagemnt lever crimp nut and bottom jam but in different positions. I remember reading somewhere that the ram will want to disengage on its stroke when hitting a round if not set right. Right now my top crimp nut is flush with the top of the threaded engagement rod, bottom nut is all the way unthreaded down, leaving about 1/2" play above and below the top/bottom of the engagement lever to the top/bottom nuts. Lot of pics have the top crimp nut tightened down on the handle to the bottom jam nut, lots of pics have the bottom jam nut cranked up forcing the handle to meet the top crimp nut...some in between as well. My SS is nowhere near seen the break-in period, is this just a break-in thing and I'll ultimately find where it needs to be set or just let it roll where it is and be done with it?? It's travelled forward with the splits I've played with so far and returned, no problems. But it's yet to see any real use at all. Thx for replies.
 
From what I have found super split has a heavier flywheel, DR is a cheaper copy. DR has an upgrade kit that replaces the bearings with solid bushing , but if you don't ask the right questions they will let you get out of warranty! Have talked to the owner of the super splitter, he is a class act as far as I can tell. Think you made a great choice, just my 2 pennies :).

Speedthrills, I appreciate your opinion, thx. I believe I made the right, and only purchase, in the flywheel splitter arena...just too hard to bet against the 40 yr proven workhorse. Speaking of class acts, not only Paul/Connor at SS, but all these SS owners on this site. I read until my eyes got crossed what this group of guys here say and have spoken about their machines...and Ive still got a wheelbarrow full of questions for em'...hope they got some patience, lol. The option of buying anything other than a SS never even crossed my mind.
 
From what know about the Dr I think you made a great choice, enjoy and tear it up and post your opinion. Was l0oking at one myself but found a hydraulic splitter at at a great price. But I sometimes have to rip cut and wedge split wood,no splitter will split 4' plus burr oak easily :(!
 
What division and what company and yeah I happened to be a hollywood Marine UHH raah Semper fi do or die

Hollywood Marine. Haven't heard that term in yrs. Ain't nothing like a 3 month vacation to Parris Island on my side of the Mississippi. I was Air Wing, spent most of my time in the 2nd Marine Aircraft Wing...A/6-E Intruders, E/A-6B Prowlers. Semper Fi my man. If considering a SS, you won't regret the purchase. Mine has yet to see any real action for lack of wood, but it'll get there, trust me. It's a Cadillac of a machine.
 
SS folks, question for you...I've noticed in many pics, the ram engagemnt lever crimp nut and bottom jam but in different positions. I remember reading somewhere that the ram will want to disengage on its stroke when hitting a round if not set right. Right now my top crimp nut is flush with the top of the threaded engagement rod, bottom nut is all the way unthreaded down, leaving about 1/2" play above and below the top/bottom of the engagement lever to the top/bottom nuts. Lot of pics have the top crimp nut tightened down on the handle to the bottom jam nut, lots of pics have the bottom jam nut cranked up forcing the handle to meet the top crimp nut...some in between as well. My SS is nowhere near seen the break-in period, is this just a break-in thing and I'll ultimately find where it needs to be set or just let it roll where it is and be done with it?? It's travelled forward with the splits I've played with so far and returned, no problems. But it's yet to see any real use at all. Thx for replies.
It doesn't matter how the handle nuts are configured, just as long as they are not tightened down against the handle. Sounds like yours is fine.
 
It doesn't matter how the handle nuts are configured, just as long as they are not tightened down against the handle. Sounds like yours is fine.

Appreciate the input Sunfish. I'm gonna let it rock and roll the way it is then. Seems to me the bottom jam nut would eventually work it's way back down the thread anyhow. My bottom nut just threads freely anyhow for the most part. Of course I could booger up the thread a little on that nut to get it to bite, but I don't think it's necessary. I'm gonna go with what I got, thx.
 
Hollywood Marine. Haven't heard that term in yrs. Ain't nothing like a 3 month vacation to Parris Island on my side of the Mississippi. I was Air Wing, spent most of my time in the 2nd Marine Aircraft Wing...A/6-E Intruders, E/A-6B Prowlers. Semper Fi my man. If considering a SS, you won't regret the purchase. Mine has yet to see any real action for lack of wood, but it'll get there, trust me. It's a Cadillac of a machine.


2nd MAW • MAG-31 • MALS-31 • MCAS BEAUFORT SC
 
1371 Combat Engineer I am the real deal lol was there did it, weeds out fakes if they know! Picked my time to go to bootcamp to be in kilo company. I work on and fix tings for a living. In my honest opinion if used within reason, you picked the best of the best!
 
And to answer your question for an inertia splitter , you got it the one to own! If I had to pick one that would have been what I bought , let us know when you get it in wood and how it works and keep posting for a few years.
 
Appreciate the input Sunfish. I'm gonna let it rock and roll the way it is then. Seems to me the bottom jam nut would eventually work it's way back down the thread anyhow. My bottom nut just threads freely anyhow for the most part. Of course I could booger up the thread a little on that nut to get it to bite, but I don't think it's necessary. I'm gonna go with what I got, thx.

...not too much thread resistance on the bottom nut anyhow. It will stay put where I set it for a little bit, but I've noticed some creep in it just running it at different throttle in the shop. And it may not be a problem when it gets to some 'absorption' of ground contact use. Concrete seems to make things rattle and shake anyhow.
 
...MA


...2nd MAW, MAG-14, VMAQ-2, VMFA-533 (All Weather Attack), Avionics/Electrician. Served from '86-'94. Spent some time (FAP) at H&HS Station as well as MWSG-27...MWSS-272

...hit the wrong buttons on that one. Anyhow, spent time with HQ, MWSG-27, one of our squadrons your way at Beaufort, MWSS-272.
 

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