Nik's Poulan Thread

[cajunhillbilly]

Would these work? The guy has a lot of different sizes. I thought about getting some but never was sure of them, sorry to interrupt.


BAR SPACERS - 9.5 mm OD x 8.0 mm ID, 10-pack | eBay I hope the link will work

 

[Modifiedmark]

So if a guy found some Homelite s clips, those would work?

Probably not as I dont think the stud spacing is the same.

Would these work? The guy has a lot of different sizes. I thought about getting some but never was sure of them, sorry to interrupt.


BAR SPACERS - 9.5 mm OD x 8.0 mm ID, 10-pack | eBay I hope the link will work

I would think those would work fine for the Homelite bars as 3/8 is 9.5mm. Husky bars are 9mm though.

 

[Guido Salvage]

Clean little Micro

I haven't visited over here in a couple of months, but just came across a nice looking Super XXV on the Harrisburg (PA) Craigslist. Price may be a tad high, but possibly worth a look.

Poulan Chainsaw

 

[a. palmer jr.]

Probably not as I dont think the stud spacing is the same.



I would think those would work fine for the Homelite bars as 3/8 is 9.5mm. Husky bars are 9mm though.

I guess a guy could always make one if you had some metal of that thickness. I think I'll go out today and see if I can find the one I have. I put it away somewhere because I didn't think I'd need it for awhile.

I just came back from the garage, found the S clip, bad news is, it won't fit the Poulan. The bar studs are too far apart on the Poulan by about 1/4". I must have got it off one of the plastic saws. Anyway, the good news is, the Poulan has a brand new 20" chain on it and it cut so well last summer that I'd hate to take it off and replace it with a 24" "Safety" chain, which the Homelite had on it. Well, on to something else!

 

[jerrycmorrow]

i'm thinking a guy could file flat sides on a washer in a pinch.

 

[8433jeff]

i'm thinking a guy could file flat sides on a washer in a pinch.

Seen that on my 4000, was running a Stihl mount 28" in pine. Seen better uses for lock washers. Homelite (196), Husky (009), to Poulan (176) is very easy with a starter spring and a little heat. Stihl mount takes some engineering.

 

[sac]

Seen that on my 4000, was running a Stihl mount 28" in pine. Seen better uses for lock washers. Homelite (196), Husky (009), to Poulan (176) is very easy with a starter spring and a little heat. Stihl mount takes some engineering.

Might have to try this one also.

 

[Eccentric]

LOL, I hear on that. Quite some time ago, somebody had some of those S-clips for sale on Ebay. Like a dummy, I just bought one!:biggrin: I thought I would never need many, I had one at the time. But since have acquired a number of Windsor type bars that I could use them on.

Mark would probably know, but I think they will work on some Homelite bars also.


Gregg,

As far as l'm concerned those s clips were made exactly for using the Homelite style mount on these saws.

Seems Windsor never made a d176 style mount so if poulan wanted to use Windsor bars the had to do something.

Yep. I have what I believe was originally a Poulan RN bar (with a 3/8" slot) that came to me mounted to a Homelite SXL. I've seen exactly the same bar (with an 'S' spacer) mounted on old Poulans before. Not sure why Windsor never made a D176 mount bar. They already made the TMX (same mount as Oregon D276) McCulloch 10-series mount bar (with 5/16" slot, but with only the McCulloch oil passages that go from the adjuster holes to the bar grooves). All they had to do was drill a couple holes (in their TMX bars) for the Echo/Poulan oilers, and they'd have a D176 mount bar (which has both Mac and Echo/Poulan oil slot/hole provissions) that'd then fit the Macs, Echos, and Poulans. They could then have ditched their TMX bar mount (as Oregon did with the D276)...

 

[Showme]

Trigger lock

Anything in particuliar that breaks on the trigger (fast idle) assembly on a 3400 that I should expect? I can't lock the trigger to the start position. It's starting without doing that but I like them to be "right". Guy I bought it from was happy using a zip tie!

 

[sac]

Seen that on my 4000, was running a Stihl mount 28" in pine. Seen better uses for lock washers. Homelite (196), Husky (009), to Poulan (176) is very easy with a starter spring and a little heat. Stihl mount takes some engineering.

Worked great, thanks

 

[OhioGregg]

Anything in particuliar that breaks on the trigger (fast idle) assembly on a 3400 that I should expect? I can't lock the trigger to the start position. It's starting without doing that but I like them to be "right". Guy I bought it from was happy using a zip tie!

There are a couple springs in there that hold things together and make things work. Its a little daunting the first time splitting the handle. But after you study it awhile, it becomes more clear. Here is a service page that might help a little. Just try to keep track of things when you slowly split it, to kinda see where things go.

View attachment 218527


Gregg,

 

[redunshee]

There are a couple springs in there that hold things together and make things work. Its a little daunting the first time splitting the handle. But after you study it awhile, it becomes more clear. Here is a service page that might help a little. Just try to keep track of things when you slowly split it, to kinda see where things go.

View attachment 218527


Gregg,

Esp. keep track of what screws go where as they are not all the same size.
Bob

 

[redunshee]

There are a couple springs in there that hold things together and make things work. Its a little daunting the first time splitting the handle. But after you study it awhile, it becomes more clear. Here is a service page that might help a little. Just try to keep track of things when you slowly split it, to kinda see where things go.

View attachment 218527


Gregg,

The throttle lock spring is the easier of the two. The difficult one(if your handle has it) is the return spring that fits around the throttle lever. Its not shown in the manual. I have a saw that doesn't have one and it returns fine. Not sure if you left it out whether it would work. Maybe it would by just using the spring on the carb.
Bob

 

[Showme]

Thanks, with the help of the page from the manual I'll give it a shot.

 

[zogger]

Thanks, with the help of the page from the manual I'll give it a shot.

Ha! I still like that ziptie trick! Gonna throw one in my TSC generic circular toolbucket I take out with me. More just in case stuff.

Another thing on those saws I have found on all of them I have taken apart, inside that oiler housing area, the old foam "keep the crud out" filters (two, one to seal the rod area channel, one that loops in and out of the housing to act as an air vent filter) disintegrate. They gunk up then. Easy enough to replace them with scrap foam and clean the whole deal out. The quad ring plunger O ring inside the manual part of the oiler is still available through poulan sources, and it does make a good difference albeit you'll pay small dollars for a minuscule little piece of rubber, the pump diaphragm *might be*, and the sealed housing def not.

 

[Mr Goodwrench]

S25da

Currently rebuilding a S25DA (my FAVORITE top handle saw) finally found new piston rings and need to know what the ring end gap should be. Also been reading alot about modding saws and was wondering what the min quench distance should be and if it would be ok to leave out the base gasket? This is going to be a firewood saw not a race saw just looking for more ecpecially while I have it apart. Thanks

 

[Showme]

Ha! I still like that ziptie trick! Gonna throw one in my TSC generic circular toolbucket I take out with me. More just in case stuff.

Another thing on those saws I have found on all of them I have taken apart, inside that oiler housing area, the old foam "keep the crud out" filters (two, one to seal the rod area channel, one that loops in and out of the housing to act as an air vent filter) disintegrate. They gunk up then. Easy enough to replace them with scrap foam and clean the whole deal out. The quad ring plunger O ring inside the manual part of the oiler is still available through poulan sources, and it does make a good difference albeit you'll pay small dollars for a minuscule little piece of rubber, the pump diaphragm *might be*, and the sealed housing def not.

Thanks for the tip. Appreciated.

 

[redunshee]

Currently rebuilding a S25DA (my FAVORITE top handle saw) finally found new piston rings and need to know what the ring end gap should be. Also been reading alot about modding saws and was wondering what the min quench distance should be and if it would be ok to leave out the base gasket? This is going to be a firewood saw not a race saw just looking for more ecpecially while I have it apart. Thanks

Not sure I have an answer as I never worried about it. If your piston has ring pins(a lot don't) I imagine the gap should be roughly equal to the pin. If you don't have ring pins, well just install them and don't worry. Just be sure to stagger them and orient the ring ends opposite the exhaust . Seeing as how you removed the jug, you may as well go gasketless. You likely can't use the old one and I believe that you have plenty of room . I've done it on two of my S25's w/o any problem.
Bob

 

[Modifiedmark]

I think most guys say they want a minumum .020" piston to head clearence if I remember right.

 

[redunshee]

Probably like this;

OEM poulan wildthing woodshark chainsaw oil pump worm gear puller tool | eBay

And yes, I bought one before I posted this bloody meat in these shark infested waters!!!LOL


Mike

Well Mike, did you get yours? MIne came and it sure is a cheap sob. You get what you pay for I guess, Haven't tried it but am wondering what the process is. Doesn't seem to have a puller like make-up.
Bob