Yup. We all have green on the brain here!
Nik's Poulan Thread
- Thread starter FATGUY
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Yup. We all have green on the brain here!
redunshee
Addicted to ArboristSite
Nice saw Joe at an unbelievably good price. I'm jealous.
thanks Bob. This saw has the same dealer tag as my 3400. Unfortunately they are long out of buisness
The info I got on the saw was just that it was a 400 vibe
Let me guess, Joe. The seller had a Poulan "Super 250" also.
Gregg,
Let me guess, Joe. The seller had a Poulan "Super 250" also.
Gregg,
If he had id have bought it:msp_thumbup:
nthums1
ArboristSite Member
I snapped a couple and hope they show where the cover rubbed the side exhaust port. Will attempt upload when time permits. I'm still pondering the fix and will have two options at least since vendor is sending me another muffler assembly. I'm hoping that side piece is better stamped allowing it to be a tighter weld to the muffler body. If just a little tighter and a small amount of sideways movement on elongated bolt holes, I'll have clearance.
In the meantime I'm pursuing assembling the Poulan 2750 and discovered the spikes missing. But another muffler thing. (Say what?) This one has the sleeve in exhaust port, no gasket per IPL between cylinder and heat shield, the heat shield with grooves cut either side of main two bolts to possibly help align the rear muffler section with has dimples that fit in those grooves, then a gasket, and then the rear muffler body to be held in place by the third bolt, the short one. Then you'd add the baffle and front cover of muffler.
I notice the port hole in the muffler is not centered on the exhaust port or the port hole in the heat shield. Heat shield lines up perfectly as do gaskets. From the top down, the muffler overhangs the exhaust port at least 1/16". And at the bottom of port, the cut of the muffler is about an 1/8" below. Even if they intended that overhang, it makes no sense that the bottom edge would be lower than the bottom of the port. Took rotary and file to it and cut away the top edge that was overhanging. Almost to the point of trying to fire.
But TWO MUFFLERS?
Mo. Jim
Addicted to ArboristSite
Figured this thread needed a bump,no posts since yesterday morning. I got to spend some time with Mark and Chris at the Ia. gtg and got to run several of their saws. They had a nice selection of strong running old iron,any one of which,I would be proud to add to my collection. I picked up my PP655BP that Shaun Carr put together for me. NOS p/c and he lowered the squish with no base gasket and milled the top of the piston to get the right clearance. It's blowing 175 lb compression with less than two tanks run through it.:msp_smile: I'm running a 36" bar and full comp 404 chain. This is a gtg saw,it's too nice to be hauling around in the back of the truck and dragging through the timber.
Another great CAD day Iron Mike pick up
Here are a couple Malls, a pneumatic saw and a super clean 71A with a Porter Cable giant bar on it. we ran the 71A today and it is a beast, also ran the 6900 and 3400. the 6900 is a powerhouse, View attachment 293762
Here are a couple Malls, a pneumatic saw and a super clean 71A with a Porter Cable giant bar on it. we ran the 71A today and it is a beast, also ran the 6900 and 3400. the 6900 is a powerhouse, View attachment 293762
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That day just wasn't long enough was it Jim?
The 71-A is a blast. Chris's 71 is one of the ones that Jim ran last week, its a good runner!
Eccentric
Mister Wizard
Finally ran my PP330 a little bit. This is the saw I picked up from a CL seller last fall. Was FILTHY. Seller said that it needed a fuel tank as it leaked when filled. Turned out to be a failed duckbill valve in the tank vent. Was also missing a tensioner screw (strange), AV mounts were torn, and the top cover was melted because the muffler halves weren't assembled correctly and it leaked at the seam. Had the goofy stock long bumper spike as well as the 22" laminated 3/8" pitch bar and loop of vanguard chain.
I tore it down and cleaned a ton of mung out of it. Eliminated the base gasket (.028" squish now), replaced the ring while I was in there (why not for a shade over $3 from my Husky dealer?), replaced the AV buffers, replaced the impulse hose, blocked off the stock 'gotta tear down the whole saw to fix it' tank vent, retrofitted the earlier 3500 style tank vent (with second line and fitting/duckbill in the top that can be easily serviced), modded and painted the muffler, replaced the top cover, replaced the bar adjuster setup, rebuilt the HDA164 carb, put in a new fuel line, installed a bumper spike from an earlier saw in the series (sent to me by a kind member here) and reassembled the whole thing. Modified a K095 mount Husky branded Oregon PowerMatch 20" .325-.058G bar for the saw. Started it, and it ran WEIRD. Bogging. Acting like it had an air leak. Wanted 2+ turns out on the L side.
Had read here that the HDA164 carbs were sometimes problem children, with symptoms matching what was going on with this saw. Put the bastard back on the shelf and messed with other saws. Grabbed an NOS HDA137 carb from ebay a few weeks back. Installed that HDA137 carb yesterday and the saw runs great now. Funky air leak symptoms are gone. Cut and noodled some oak in the Ca sunshine. Looks like this saw was another case of a lemon HDA164.
Of course................per my usual practice I'm sending the saw away as soon as I get it back to 100% status (after throwing time and $$$/parts at it). That's fine by me, as it's going to a member here in trade for another Poulan. One I've been seeking for a while. I think we'll both be happy.
Here's how it looked the day I brought it home.
Here's how it looks now.
I tore it down and cleaned a ton of mung out of it. Eliminated the base gasket (.028" squish now), replaced the ring while I was in there (why not for a shade over $3 from my Husky dealer?), replaced the AV buffers, replaced the impulse hose, blocked off the stock 'gotta tear down the whole saw to fix it' tank vent, retrofitted the earlier 3500 style tank vent (with second line and fitting/duckbill in the top that can be easily serviced), modded and painted the muffler, replaced the top cover, replaced the bar adjuster setup, rebuilt the HDA164 carb, put in a new fuel line, installed a bumper spike from an earlier saw in the series (sent to me by a kind member here) and reassembled the whole thing. Modified a K095 mount Husky branded Oregon PowerMatch 20" .325-.058G bar for the saw. Started it, and it ran WEIRD. Bogging. Acting like it had an air leak. Wanted 2+ turns out on the L side.
Had read here that the HDA164 carbs were sometimes problem children, with symptoms matching what was going on with this saw. Put the bastard back on the shelf and messed with other saws. Grabbed an NOS HDA137 carb from ebay a few weeks back. Installed that HDA137 carb yesterday and the saw runs great now. Funky air leak symptoms are gone. Cut and noodled some oak in the Ca sunshine. Looks like this saw was another case of a lemon HDA164.
Of course................per my usual practice I'm sending the saw away as soon as I get it back to 100% status (after throwing time and $$$/parts at it). That's fine by me, as it's going to a member here in trade for another Poulan. One I've been seeking for a while. I think we'll both be happy.
Here's how it looked the day I brought it home.
Here's how it looks now.
Flintknapper
ArboristSite Operative
Help me remember.
Seems I read here (once upon a time) that there is some type of 'spacer' available (or used to be) that will let me adapt a bar intended for a 9.5 mm mount (3/8") to a 8mm mount (5/16"), as on my 4900.
Yes? Or did I dream this?
Thanks,
Flint.
Seems I read here (once upon a time) that there is some type of 'spacer' available (or used to be) that will let me adapt a bar intended for a 9.5 mm mount (3/8") to a 8mm mount (5/16"), as on my 4900.
Yes? Or did I dream this?
Thanks,
Flint.
Eccentric
Mister Wizard
There are 'coiled spring' and 'S' spacers made for that purpose. Homelite and Poulan both cataloged them.
For example:
Homelite Bar Spacer Spring 69966 UP07407 35SL 350 360 | eBay
I discovered a while ago that the same 'S' spacer can be used on midsized Poulans, XL series Homelites, and 10-series Macs.
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Got my extra covers painted and a decal made up for my special edition wild thing 505. 
machinisttx
Addicted to ArboristSite
Picked these and a few others up at a scrapyard yesterday for about $5 each. The 306A needs a new handle/tank assembly(obviously), brace, and clutch cover(usable, but cracked at the top hole for bucking spikes), but the cylinder looks good and it fires off with a bit of carb cleaner sprayed in the carb bore. Need to finish cleaning it up and figure out what the text is on the clutch cover decal. Thirty Oh Six? The 1800...well...it has compression and a good percentage of it is there. The case is destroyed, as is the clutch cover and throttle cable.
Funny story on the 306A. After I pulled the muffler to check on the P/C, I figured I'd see if it would fire. Shot in some carb cleaner and got nothing. Pulled the plug and it was pretty nasty looking....must be the original since it's marked as a Poulan plug, so I shined it up with some sandpaper and held it against the muffler while I pulled the rope. I found out it does have spark....a portion of the plug boot just above the top of the plug is missing and it jumped across the gap to my fingers. Hello!!! I'm happy it wasn't a briggs lawnmower...they've got a bit more juice.
View attachment 293838
View attachment 293834
View attachment 293833
Funny story on the 306A. After I pulled the muffler to check on the P/C, I figured I'd see if it would fire. Shot in some carb cleaner and got nothing. Pulled the plug and it was pretty nasty looking....must be the original since it's marked as a Poulan plug, so I shined it up with some sandpaper and held it against the muffler while I pulled the rope. I found out it does have spark....a portion of the plug boot just above the top of the plug is missing and it jumped across the gap to my fingers. Hello!!!
I'm happy it wasn't a briggs lawnmower...they've got a bit more juice.View attachment 293838
View attachment 293834
View attachment 293833
Flintknapper
ArboristSite Operative
Thanks, Ec...
So is the spacer in the link, the one I could use on my 4900....or just an example?
Looking for a few suggestions for my 4200.
I finaly got the vaccum leak between the apdator and the carb fixed. I was noodling some rounds today and it was running really well. I shut it down to do some splitting, fueled the saw up and it wouldn't run off idle. I could get it to start and idle but it would just die if I gave it any throttle at all. Even gently feathering the trigger would cause it to die.
Any idea what might be going on here? The carb is an HS 168A. It has a pretty new kit in it and the fuel line has been replaced.
I finaly got the vaccum leak between the apdator and the carb fixed. I was noodling some rounds today and it was running really well. I shut it down to do some splitting, fueled the saw up and it wouldn't run off idle. I could get it to start and idle but it would just die if I gave it any throttle at all. Even gently feathering the trigger would cause it to die.
Any idea what might be going on here? The carb is an HS 168A. It has a pretty new kit in it and the fuel line has been replaced.
machinisttx
Addicted to ArboristSite
Did you retune after fixing the air leak?
Yes.
But I never fiddled with the needles when the air leak showed up. I'm at 1 1/8 or so on the low side and about the same on the high side. It was running just fine before I shut it down to refuel and do a little splitting, The saw was still warm when I tried to fire it up again.
That 330 looks great Aaron. Good to know about the carb too.
Jim Schwebach
New Member
Is that a PP475 in that picture and if it is would it be for sale?
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