Oh 64 rebuild.... On the cheap.

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The clutch side I think you have to get from stihl it has the place built in bearing for seal to press into
the flywheelside does not have to be stihl

9010 ral number is the powder we use on newer stihl
http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/stihl-064-restoration.239765/

if your gonna powder bake the raw parts to draw the oil out of metal

randy went over this before a kolbinsmit (I think that's the name it begins with a K) cyl has better port timing
 
I'm not sure if I got the deal. The site was screwed up and I called at 4:50 but got no answer. I guess everyone went home for the day. Tgi Thursday.

I sent an email so we shall see. They are usually pretty good about stuff.

For now I'll probably just keep the stock filter. I need to keep it cheep. :)
 
Ok... Some parts on the way. Got a meteor kit for it for 30 bucks. Also picked up new rubber and a few other bits. I really wanted to grab the full wrap they had, but I need to get it running first. No bearings yet as they only sold Chinese and I am listening to my elders..lol. I don't really want to spend 50 bucks on one bearing so we will see. This is one side of stihl I have always disliked.
 
The clutch side I think you have to get from stihl it has the place built in bearing for seal to press into
the clutch side does not have to be stihl

9010 ral number is the powder we use on newer stihl
http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/stihl-064-restoration.239765/

if your gonna powder bake the raw parts to draw the oil out of metal

randy went over this before a kolbinsmit (I think that's the name it begins with a K) cyl has better port timing

At one time the clutch side did have to be Stihl but no longer, there are aftermarket bearings being sold out there that are a direct replacement for them. Quality is still questionable but there are plenty in use right now.
 
That's kind of where I'm leaning. I figure the old clutch side is a plastic cage so even an aftermarket bearing would be better in most cases than an old one with that variable.
 
That's kind of where I'm leaning. I figure the old clutch side is a plastic cage so even an aftermarket bearing would be better in most cases than an old one with that variable.

I will say that a few of the aftermarket bearings I have fitted on my finger and spun them over have felt very smooth. We were taught to do this back in school and on the job to feel for catch or hitch. The bearing needs to be thoroughly cleaned before the test. The metal quality is the one area that might be hit or miss but the ones I have handled looked really good, only time will tell.
 
This saw will get next to no use from me. Realistically speaking, I usually use my shinny 360 to do the firewood work. The poulan 335 and DozerDan 372 get hard use, but not often. This saw will maybe mill a few things and cut down and buck some big trees. I'm a wimp so the lighter the better.

It's not what I need, but i just want it... Ya know? :chainsaw:
 
For saws like that, I usually take my time to save up money and source the right parts. Ya know?
 
Lol... I don't even remember. I'll have to look and let you know. The only reason I have that paint is because we used it at my old job on tractor trailers. They got a ridiculous deal on it so I bought some from them for a project.

I usually use nanson, duponts off brand, and I usually spray base clear. Me having this paint is a fluke really.

Edit.....ChromaOne.....

Ps.... Derail away! Remember... I'm ADD. I love a good derailment!
 
I too was wary of the AM bearings but i now have 4 saws running them and they are still running good,they are only small saws 024,026,034,036,soon be be another 026 ,so far all good 3 and 4 years on,to be honest any biger and OEM is used
 
I've never run AM bearings on a big saw. I have friends who did in the past and they warned me against it. Have a 064 in the shop as we speak getting new bearings and seals. OEM cost was almost $100, just for the bearings. My brothers and I love the 064's. Only reason we still keep a few around.
 

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