Oregon Reduced Weight bar insert repair

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I assume it falls out because it gets brittle and fails. So you need something that has flex properties.
Epoxie won't work. Nether will the stuff you hold sloppy bearings in with.

How about windshield adhesive?

Has flex and is quite strong given the large surface area of the insert.

Oh and its cheep.
 
Word of advice if you try the urethane windshield adhesive.... Warm it up before use.... Much easier to work with. I used to lay the tubes on top of the furnace for 20 minutes before use in the winter and lay then out in the sun for an hour or so in the summer
 
Can someone recommend a flexible yet sturdy adhesive to adhere the aluminum insert to the steel on an Oregon Reduced Weight bar? I've got about 20 that I'd like to try and fix.
Thanks.

be sure to post up your results Jasha. i'm definitely interested as i've ran into a few like this from other guys. i run tsumura and haven't had inserts come out on them yet. i wonder if the original adhesive could be found out from oregon? the few i looked at i was thinking of setting pins in the bottom of the bar rail through into the insert but figured it would just break the pins and would be alot of work. sikiflex is really good stuff. i use it alot in marine and was removing a pod from a boat that had been sikiflexed. with all bolts removed i couldn't get it off so lowered the engine back on and it supported all the weight of a 200hp outboard lol. ended up have to lower the boat with pod supported so the boats weight took it off.
 
I've got about 20 that I'd like to try and fix.

20!!! How did you end up with so many? Got pics of the bars?

Couple of thoughts:

Call Oregon and ask them if they have any suggestions? (OK - westcoaster90 typed faster!)

Contact an industrial adhesives manufacturer (Permatex, 3M, etc.) and ask them. I believe that Oregon was describing their new 'SpeedCut', lightweight bar as 'adhesive laminated'. Those adhesives may or may not be available for small scale/consumer use, or may require special setting or handling equipment. But you can ask!

Philbert
 
Dan Cox (Timberland Enterprises - Roseburg, Oregon) uses the aircraft aluminum adhesive. He said it's about $400/gallon but it's the only thing he's found that will bond to the aluminum inserts in those bars. He fixes around 200/year.
:surprised3:
 
20!!! How did you end up with so many? Got pics of the bars?

Couple of thoughts:

Call Oregon and ask them if they have any suggestions? (OK - westcoaster90 typed faster!)

Contact an industrial adhesives manufacturer (Permatex, 3M, etc.) and ask them. I believe that Oregon was describing their new 'SpeedCut', lightweight bar as 'adhesive laminated'. Those adhesives may or may not be available for small scale/consumer use, or may require special setting or handling equipment. But you can ask!

Philbert
Now that you mention those laminate bars.... I really hope Oregon is using a different bonding agent from their RW bars. The only Oregon RW bars I've ever seen had the aluminum strip detached
 
I have so many because I ran them for years, they were light, but by packing our saws on our shoulders stressed the inserts. I've riveted many, just would like to try something else rather than just having to go to waste. Be good for wood cutting and saws I sell. Thanks for all the input.
 
Sikaflex caulking has good adhesive properties & lasts forever; temperature might be an issue though. A good quality construction adhesive or contact cement might work too. I'd go with Sikaflex to start with.
 
There is a very inexpensive option. High temp adhesive used for clothes dryer bearing pads. It is similar to contact adhesive but does not blister when heated to moderately high temps. I'm sure you could also contact Loctite for their recommended product. They have too many options to keep track of and Loctite would have some working time which dryer adhesive does not...once pressed together, it's together period.
 
Not a chainsaw bar but I have repaired a similar set up with " Evo Stick" which is a flexi contact adhesive both parts lightly coated & fitted while still wet & left to cure held in place with a couple of pieces of duct tape, leave 24 hrs there are other brands & although I've not used it one of the products in the " Sikaflex" range is said to be very good
 
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